Alumium Foil For Making Laminates

[TAE73]

Not sure if anyone has tried this trick or not but it works pretty darn good. Take a piece of aluminum foil lay over one half of the mold and close the mold. Then shoot it with hot plastic let it cool as you normally would and demold, two perfect halfs! I did this on my caney creek craw it worked real nice for making PB&J laminates. Just placed it back into the mold and shot the other color. If you was doing a bait that had not top or bottom to it would be alot faster. Perfect two color baits, with no hand pouring.

Here is a pic not the best with camera phone.

[mark poulson]

Very clever!

[GB GONE]

Smart idea!!!!!!! Looks as good as using the 2 piece setup for sure!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jim

[Piscivorous Pike]

very clever.

I have tried pouring over cooled halves before and then later had problems with delamination and have been left with the impression you must make a laminate with the one side not cooling off too much so it will weld to the other half.

Why and how does this work? I would like to learn this trick and use this method because it is so clean looking.

[GB GONE]

Hand pouring you will still have issues I believe but with hand injection, the halves will seal together appropriately due to the additional pressure applied.

Just my guess....

Jim

[TAE73]

I will take some pictures here in the next few days of each step of the process. I would say Jim is correct on the injection machine forcing its self into the other half. I have a single cavity mold, I did 2 shots and laid them out, and started heating the color. So they layed there for 5 minutes before I started pouring again. I was pretty impressed on how well the tow halves bonded with each other, I tried the next day to split them apart wasn't able to do so.

[BBK]

It also works to make hookslots.

http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l213/shebadog_01/Foil/

[tigerfire]

Nice. Now to figure out how to do that with hand pouring??????

[GB GONE]

Nice. Now to figure out how to do that with hand pouring??????

Not to jack this thread but with hand pouring you can do laminates very easy with a split cup. Many members have done thousands this way. You can check my site for examples if interested and I'll be glad to help you achieve the same results. Laminates here...

Jim

[mark poulson]

You make some beautiful baits.

Where can I buy a split cup?

Edited August 27, 2010 by mark poulson

[GB GONE]

Thanks Mark. I doubt anyone sells them but search split cup on here and Del's forum, you'll be able to make one easy.

Jim

[mark poulson]

Thanks Mark. I doubt anyone sells them but search split cup on here and Del's forum, you'll be able to make one easy.

Jim

Thanks for the idea.

I did a site search here, and found it. It looks like a piece of lexan is what I need to silicone into my pyrex cup.

Edited August 27, 2010 by mark poulson

[tigerfire]

My first attempt at a split cup for laminates resulted in a nice cup for swirls. That was ok, since I wanted one for swirls also.

After reading more posts on the site, I determined that I needed to cut the divider lower so it was not so close to the spout. I never really got a laminate that I would consider good. It looked more like a bad swirl. Especially, if I used a translucent color like watermelon and a dark color like black. The entire bait would be black.

I wish there was a template that I could follow for cutting the divider for laminates.

Any help is greately appreciated.

[gone2long]

Thanks for the idea.

I did a site search here, and found it. It looks like a piece of lexan is what I need to silicone into my pyrex cup.

I personally have not made one yet but I think I read lexan will fail, believe it or not you can use a piece of aluminum flashing and dull the metal with vinegar that will prevent an arc in the micro. They use JB Weld to secure it in the cup, also some have made a split cup but transfer pre-heated plastic to it then pour forgoing the cup in the micro all together.

[mark poulson]

I personally have not made one yet but I think I read lexan will fail, believe it or not you can use a piece of aluminum flashing and dull the metal with vinegar that will prevent an arc in the micro. They use JB Weld to secure it in the cup, also some have made a split cup but transfer pre-heated plastic to it then pour forgoing the cup in the micro all together.

Hmmm....so many decisions, so little time.

[Fish Candy Bait Company]

Hmmm....so many decisions, so little time.

Let me add that I tried to make one as an experiment on Wednesday. I was a one of our customers a month ago to pick of some freight and all they do is plastics of all manor. Plexiglass, lexan, etc. SI I asked them in the office what I could use that might take temps up to 350. They looked through their inventory and came up with vinyl. The specs claimed a melting point of 500 degrees. They gave me a couple of samples to try. It was a little tough to cut as I did not have a fine tooth blade for my jigsaw. I wound up using a cutting wheel on my dremel.

They suggested to try epoxy to glue it into glass as there was not much that would adhere to it. Perfect because I have some 5 minute epoxy just laying around. So I got it glued in and applied some more after it dried to seal a few weak areas. After it was dry I put it to the test. During the heating as it came up to temp the vinyl failed in a spot near the surface of melting plastic. Now this was not starting from liquid but reheating solid pieces from batches I have poured. End results were that the vinyl completely failed in one spot allowing both colors to flow together and the epoxy turned yellow and brittle. This did provide a way to get the cured epoxy off the pyrex and allow me to continue to use it for one color pours. I believe that the metal is the only alternative at this point and pyrex could make some good money if they were to alter the 2 cup glass mold to have a glass divider in it for us.