robert giberson Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 When doing the crankbaits, i find it's easier to install the lip first instead of after it has been painted. My question is does anyone paint their lips and then topcoat them? If not how do you avoid getting topcoat on the lips? Are screw eyes put in before of after you paint? Before or after topcoat? Thanks Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coley Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 I install my lips at the same time I clear coat my baits. My lips fit really snug. I clearcoat the bait around the lip slot while holding the bait straight up. I put clearcoat (Devcon 2T) in the lip slot and on the section of the lip that fits in the slot. Still holding the bait straight up I push the lip slowly down into the slot. The epoxy will ease out the bottom corners of the slot. Still holding the bait straight up I start using this excess epoxy to clearcoat the rest of the bait. There is no need to get epoxy on the lip as the nose of the bait was already clearcoated before I put the lip in place. Coley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 robert, I put my lips in after I paint the lure. I use to get epoxy on my lips alot of the time. Mainly because I put too much epoxy on the lip before I slid it in. Then alot of the excess epoxy would be built up on the nose of the bait. I would use my finger to get the excess off and then I would still be touching the lure. Even though I wiped the glue off of my finger I would still have some on there and it would get on the lip. The secret is to use less epoxy to glue the lip in. If your slot is 1/2 inch deep then only put epoxy on the first 1/4 inch of the lip. If your slot is nice and tight then keep the coating on the end of the lip thin. When you slide the lip into the slot then the epoxy will spread to the front of the lip slot. This keeps the excess down to a minimum and it won't be squirting out everywhere. If you clearcoat at the same time, you can do it as Coley does it. I have done it that way also. The reason I don't do it that way any more is because I have had lips twist on me and get out of line when the epoxy starts to cure. I like to babysit the lure and make sure that the lip stays straight. If you are making lures that do not have the line tie in the lip....don't worry. The lip will NEVER come out. If the line tie is in the lip then just make sure that there is an even coating across the width of the lip before you slide it in. Epoxy is really really tough. Your lip won't come out. Put the screw eyes in either before or after you paint. It does not matter. If you put them in before you paint then cover them with tape or a piece of tubing. That way they stay clean. However put them in before you clearcoat. Clearcoats like Devcon will help keep those suckers solid and in the bait. If you get some insided the eye just use a tooth pick and pass it through the eye. This will keep the eye clear. Skeeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtrs5kprs Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 Ok, here's one from the visitor's section I guess... I install my lips first, then just mask them off with blue masking tape (see pics in gallery). Some reasons: 1) I use alligator clips on my clearcoat turner and the lips make an easy attachment point. 2) Don't like the idea of jacking up my paint job by installing post paint, to include getting excess epoxy on the clearcoat. 3) I use several layers of clearcoat, don't think I could fit the lip in after. 4) Allows a nice and complete seal of the clearcoat around the lip slot and lip = better protection for my paint AND 5) Best reason yet...It looks like that is how the HT balsa baits are made, at least the ones I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
