Hand Pour A 2 Sided Mold

[andydoc]

I am doing a little research, and was wondering if there are 2 sided molds that can be hand poured. I did some searching on this forum, but didn't get any hits. I am looking to get into the soft plastic world, but don't have the dough to get into the injection world.

Any guidance is greatly appreciated...

[ethan3]

Ya, and they work fine when you pour from a pyrex cup.

[andydoc]

any pointers as to who sells them? It is kinda hard to tell from pictures and the literature on some websites

[Richard Prager]

All the major vendors have them. Delw, Bear, Basstackle, Bobstackleshack, etc. It should be listed as hand pour and will always have the sprue on top. Shoot them an e-mail if you're not sure.

[Vodkaman]

If money is an issue, consider making your own. Read up on PoP (plaster of paris), RTV (room temperature vulcanization rubber), Durhams water putty, resin. Just a thought, it is not for everyone, but can be fun and rewarding too.

Dave

[toadfrog]

If you are going to do it to make money you won't . You can make a lot of fun and learn more things than you can imagine. You will need multiple molds of the same lure if you do production . I suggest you read every darn thing you can find on every web site . before you spend a dime. Unless your like me. Its been said that I am Half witted . But then I've survived pretty well with only half my witts , when others have not with all their witts intact .

[mark poulson]

If you are going to do it to make money you won't . You can make a lot of fun and learn more things than you can imagine. You will need multiple molds of the same lure if you do production . I suggest you read every darn thing you can find on every web site . before you spend a dime. Unless your like me. Its been said that I am Half witted . But then I've survived pretty well with only half my witts , when others have not with all their witts intact .

If you say it, it must be true!

I'm looking for grizzley hackels right now, to make my feather embedded Ikas.

I guess being a half wit is okay, as long as you've got the right wit to split.

[toadfrog]

PM Me your address and I'll send some for you to play with.

If you say it, it must be true!

I'm looking for grizzley hackels right now, to make my feather embedded Ikas.

I guess being a half wit is okay, as long as you've got the right wit to split.

[andydoc]

thanks all for the response. I did do alot of research last night. Found some very educational videos from Larry Dahlberg. I am not looking at production, but am a do it yourselfer. I have an uncle that has a 'favorite' worm that is out of production and would like some more. I want to help cause I have seen what those worms are capable of. I need to do some more looking to if some company has already made a mold of the worm.

[gone2long]

outside of trying to match a bait don't count out one sided molds, there's a ton of them out there and work great and are 1/5 - 1/10 the cost of a 2 piece aluminum mold.

[mark poulson]

Jim "Ghostbaits" pointed out that it's easier to do an open face laminate with a two piece POP mold, because the plastic doesn't cool as quickly as it would in an aluminum mold, so you have time to close the mold and pour the second color in, and it will still melt into the first pour.

I only use POP molds, and that method has me feeling like I'm creative!

If I were using an aluminum two piece mold, I think I'd have to heat the mold so the plastic would stay warm enough for the second part to melt into the first and bold.

[Richard Prager]

With the aluminum molds, if you pour a set a baits first, it will heat up the mold enough to do laminates. Unless, of course, it is cold and you don''t live in Sunny South FloridaB) You can also lay the mold on a pancake griddle set on warm and pour that way. Or......you can just do your laminate, then set the mold on the griddle and turn it on warm for 60 seconds or so.. It will blend in any cold cracks you might get. Those were my experiences with 2 part hand pours w/lams. With open pours which were my favorite, just set the molds on the griddle and pour. You might try doing a search for split veins and cores as they are allot of fun with open molds. One can be as creative as the mind allows. It's nice to see that not everybody owns an injector!

[toadfrog]

With the aluminum molds, if you pour a set a baits first, it will heat up the mold enough to do laminates. Unless, of course, it is cold and you don''t live in Sunny South FloridaB) You can also lay the mold on a pancake griddle set on warm and pour that way. Or......you can just do your laminate, then set the mold on the griddle and turn it on warm for 60 seconds or so.. It will blend in any cold cracks you might get. Those were my experiences with 2 part hand pours w/lams. With open pours which were my favorite, just set the molds on the griddle and pour. You might try doing a search for split veins and cores as they are allot of fun with open molds. One can be as creative as the mind allows. It's nice to see that not everybody owns an injector!

I tried what I call pooling once. First off I use porcelin cups or bowels they hold heat a lot better. I mesured close to the quantity off two colors that I would need too make a couple of pours. I used 2/3 0f a cup of white , then I drisseled from the center outwards to the wall of the cup with black . Kinda like making a cup of that funny coffee. I drug a stirstick through the plastic following that line. Pour after that . Or Inject whichever your pleasure is. Didn't turn out to bad.

[Airfishman]

I tried what I call pooling once. First off I use porcelin cups or bowels they hold heat a lot better. I mesured close to the quantity off two colors that I would need too make a couple of pours. I used 2/3 0f a cup of white , then I drisseled from the center outwards to the wall of the cup with black . Kinda like making a cup of that funny coffee. I drug a stirstick through the plastic following that line. Pour after that . Or Inject whichever your pleasure is. Didn't turn out to bad.

Hey guys, new member here. I'm glad I stumbled onto this discussion, because I just had a failed attempt at making a two piece plaster mold. I can't keep the two halves from sticking together. I tried painting the first half and coated it with vegetable oil, but no luck. Any Ideas?

[mark poulson]

Hey guys, new member here. I'm glad I stumbled onto this discussion, because I just had a failed attempt at making a two piece plaster mold. I can't keep the two halves from sticking together. I tried painting the first half and coated it with vegetable oil, but no luck. Any Ideas?

When I tried to make a two piece POP mold the first time, I used PAM on the raw POP, and the new POP stuck to it badly.

I posted my bad results, and got lots of good advice.

Thanks to the members here, now when I make my POP molds, after I make the first half, I dry it in the over at 170 degrees for an hour, with the door ajar.

Then I coat the mold face with D2T epoxy, mixed really well and then cut 1/1 with denatured alcohol. I brush the mixture onto the POP and it soaks right in. I brush on at least three coats, one right after the other, and then let it set up.

Once the epoxy sets, I spray the face with PAM, and put it face down over the second half of the mold that's filled with fresh POP. I immediately clamp the two halves together, and turn them over so the half with the fresh POP is on top.

I tap the top of the mold with a rubber handled screw driver to try and get the air bubbles in the POP to migrate up and away from the mold masters.

Once the new POP had set, I open the mold, clean off any flash or crud, and do the oven and D2T treatment on the new half.

I still spray PAM on both mold halves before I pour my plastic. It really helps to keep the plastic from sticking.

Edited October 29, 2010 by mark poulson

[Airfishman]

When I tried to make a two piece POP mold the first time, I used PAM on the raw POP, and the new POP stuck to it badly.

I posted my bad results, and got lots of good advice.

Thanks to the members here, now when I make my POP molds, after I make the first half, I dry it in the over at 170 degrees for an hour, with the door ajar.

Then I coat the mold face with D2T epoxy, mixed really well and then cut 1/1 with denatured alcohol. I brush the mixture onto the POP and it soaks right in. I brush on at least three coats, one right after the other, and then let it set up.

Once the epoxy sets, I spray the face with PAM, and put it face down over the second half of the mold that's filled with fresh POP. I immediately clamp the two halves together, and turn them over so the half with the fresh POP is on top.

I tap the top of the mold with a rubber handled screw driver to try and get the air bubbles in the POP to migrate up and away from the mold masters.

Once the new POP had set, I open the mold, clean off any flash or crud, and do the oven and D2T treatment on the new half.

I still spray PAM on both mold halves before I pour my plastic. It really helps to keep the plastic from sticking.

Awesome advise. What are you pouring your plaster into?

[mark poulson]

Awesome advise. What are you pouring your plaster into?

I make matching box halves with pine borders, and 1/4" melamine bottoms. I seal them with acylic spray before I add the POP, and use strips of fiberglass drywall tape as reinforcement. I also shoot finish nails through the pine into the mold cavity to lock the POP in place. I lay out where the masters are going to be first, so I don't add a nail in the wrong place.

When I first started out, I messed up a couple of molds, and had to remove the plaster so I could reuse the boxes. The little nails and fiberglass tape really work and make it a bear to remove the POP.

[GB GONE]

Dave:

Check out this link to Mark's previous info and these pics. It will show you how to do it right!!!

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/19801-how-to-make-2-piece-pop-mold-newbie/page__p__147995__hl__%2Bpop+%2Bmold__fromsearch__1#entry147995

Jim

PS It will be a flippin bite this weekend on Bank's, especially if the clouds stay away and this cold front sticks!!!!

[andydoc]

thanks for the link...very intersting and educational. I am just trying to pour a round worm very similar to this (attached). Not knowing much about the process, any opinion if PoP would be the best choice to start with?

[Airfishman]

Dave:

Check out this link to Mark's previous info and these pics. It will show you how to do it right!!!

http://www.tackleund...__1#entry147995

Jim

PS It will be a flippin bite this weekend on Bank's, especially if the clouds stay away and this cold front sticks!!!!

I will be out there at 0700 on Saturday.

[JSC]

thanks for the link...very intersting and educational. I am just trying to pour a round worm very similar to this (attached). Not knowing much about the process, any opinion if PoP would be the best choice to start with?

Do some more research ... that pouring the curl tail can be a problem if no vented correctly.

Jim (Ghost) has a couple of threads about this and several others (Vodakman) have contributed

to this subject.

Good Luck

JSC

[GB GONE]

thanks for the link...very intersting and educational. I am just trying to pour a round worm very similar to this (attached). Not knowing much about the process, any opinion if PoP would be the best choice to start with?

This particular worm will be tough with anything but injection. Not because of the tail necessarily but because of the ribs.

Hand pouring into those types of ribs will cause air bubbles and voids like crazy. You will also have a tough time just making the mold with pop. RTV might work but you will still get the voids and bubbles unless you use vacumn as Dave has descibed in the past.

Personally, I'd look at the injection mold Del has and limit my frustation on this one...

Jim

[Vodkaman]

This particular worm will be tough with anything but injection. Not because of the tail necessarily but because of the ribs.

Hand pouring into those types of ribs will cause air bubbles and voids like crazy. You will also have a tough time just making the mold with pop. RTV might work but you will still get the voids and bubbles unless you use vacumn as Dave has descibed in the past.

Personally, I'd look at the injection mold Del has and limit my frustation on this one...

Jim

I think injection with a very slightly cracked (slightly open) mold, so the air can vent out. I don't think vacuum would solve the problem, without having to vent every rib. Just my thoughts on the job.

Dave