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Epoxy Rod Handle

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This is an idea I came up with the other day, and I was wondering if anyone had ever tried anything like it.

I'm doing this project on a casting rod I built a couple years ago.

Here's what I started with. I cut off the old foam handle, and this is what was left. The foam wasn't fastened on very securely; when I installed it it fit on the blank very tight and it pushed all the adhesive to the rear of the handle. I could actually turn the front end of the foam. I was going to have to do something about it anyway, and I figured I'd go all the way.

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Next I wrapped cord around part of the blank next to the reel seat.

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I then coated the cord with epoxy. The cord acts as filler so you don't need to use as much epoxy. After the first coat had cured, I added more cord.

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Since taking this last pic I've epoxied over the grip, and I'm going to keep adding cord and epoxying until I get the handle to the right thickness. Then I'll sand it smooth, paint it, and finally epoxy over it again.

So, has anyone ever done anything like this? I think it would greatly boost the sensitivity while still providing a comfortable handle. Using this method, you could even create marbled handles, or really do just about anything you like.

I think this would work even better if you used fiberglass mesh tape instead of cord for the filler. I want to build another rod sometime, and that's what I'm going to do for the handle.

For anyone that's interested, I'm using Trondak U-40 Medium-Build epoxy.

If you have any questions or suggestions, let me know. I'll try to post pics in the gallery once I've got it done.

Ben

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Here's where I am now. Last night I put a second coat of epoxy on, and now I've added more filler. I found some fiberglass tape, and I used that instead of cord. I wish I'd had it when I started, as it would have made it much easier to get a smooth handle. But, this way is working out pretty well.

Here's the rod after the second coat of epoxy

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Here it is with fiberglass tape wrapped around the handle

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A close-up of the taped handle. I used some thread to hold the tape in place while I'm epoxying.

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Now I'm going to put another coat of U-40 over the tape. Hopefully, this coat will get the handle smooth enough to paint, and then I can put the final coat of epoxy on.

Thanks for reading.

Ben

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post-21896-097805700 1288623604_thumb.jpg

post-21896-050963500 1288623769_thumb.jpg

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Here's where I am now. Last night I put a second coat of epoxy on, and now I've added more filler. I found some fiberglass tape, and I used that instead of cord. I wish I'd had it when I started, as it would have made it much easier to get a smooth handle. But, this way is working out pretty well.

Here's the rod after the second coat of epoxy

post-21896-063116900 1288623599_thumb.jpg

Here it is with fiberglass tape wrapped around the handle

post-21896-097805700 1288623604_thumb.jpg

A close-up of the taped handle. I used some thread to hold the tape in place while I'm epoxying.

post-21896-050963500 1288623769_thumb.jpg

Now I'm going to put another coat of U-40 over the tape. Hopefully, this coat will get the handle smooth enough to paint, and then I can put the final coat of epoxy on.

Thanks for reading.

Ben

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You could save yourself quite a bit of work by making an epoxy ramp. If you have a set-up to spin your rod while your epoxy is curing try this. Chuck the grip and start spinning, raise your v-block rest at the tip end by placing a book under the base. with the rod spinning on an up-hill incline, mix some quick setting epoxy and fill the reel seat opening leaving a little extra to form the ramp length your looking for. It will want to run out at first but as it starts to set you can get the shape your looking for using any kind of flat paddle tool like a popsicle stick. Marble it or wrap it with thread to get the look your after. Hope that helps, good luck.

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You could save yourself quite a bit of work by making an epoxy ramp. If you have a set-up to spin your rod while your epoxy is curing try this. Chuck the grip and start spinning, raise your v-block rest at the tip end by placing a book under the base. with the rod spinning on an up-hill incline, mix some quick setting epoxy and fill the reel seat opening leaving a little extra to form the ramp length your looking for. It will want to run out at first but as it starts to set you can get the shape your looking for using any kind of flat paddle tool like a popsicle stick. Marble it or wrap it with thread to get the look your after. Hope that helps, good luck.

What epoxy do you have in mind? I had to use rod finish for this handle, so I have to keep building up layers. I didn't have much 5-minute epoxy when I started this so that wasn't an option for me. I'm a little leery of using a quick-set epoxy, because I think it might be too brittle. You would know more about that than me though; this is the first time I've attempted anything like this.

I'm going to use high-build U-40 on the next coat. It's much thicker than what I used before, and I think it will work better.

I do have a drying motor, but right now I have it set up to turn lures while the epoxy topcoat is drying. I had to use a small battery-powered motor for my rod while it was turning, and it wears out a set of batteries per coat of epoxy. If I decide to do more rod-building, I'll get another motor and build a rod-drying rack.

I'm probably going to marble the handle when I've got it smooth enough. I'll try to get some pics posted when it's done.

Thanks for your input!

Ben

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What epoxy do you have in mind? I had to use rod finish for this handle, so I have to keep building up layers. I didn't have much 5-minute epoxy when I started this so that wasn't an option for me. I'm a little leery of using a quick-set epoxy, because I think it might be too brittle. You would know more about that than me though; this is the first time I've attempted anything like this.

I'm going to use high-build U-40 on the next coat. It's much thicker than what I used before, and I think it will work better.

I do have a drying motor, but right now I have it set up to turn lures while the epoxy topcoat is drying. I had to use a small battery-powered motor for my rod while it was turning, and it wears out a set of batteries per coat of epoxy. If I decide to do more rod-building, I'll get another motor and build a rod-drying rack.

I'm probably going to marble the handle when I've got it smooth enough. I'll try to get some pics posted when it's done.

Thanks for your input!

Ben

I agree the quick setting epoxy isn't as strong but there shouldn't be much stress in that area of the blank. I have my drying motor set up to dry the epoxy top coat also but I use a wooden dowel attatched to a a 6" foam ring. The dowel plugs in to the dryer motor chuck so I can get dual use out of it. I've been bit with the rod building and lure making bug. Good luck on your project.

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I agree the quick setting epoxy isn't as strong but there shouldn't be much stress in that area of the blank. I have my drying motor set up to dry the epoxy top coat also but I use a wooden dowel attatched to a a 6" foam ring. The dowel plugs in to the dryer motor chuck so I can get dual use out of it. I've been bit with the rod building and lure making bug. Good luck on your project.

I'll have to rig up something like that. Thanks for the tip!

The rod I'm working on is pretty flexible even down in the handle area, and I think it would flex too much for five-minute epoxy. I may do some experimenting on other rods (I've got a 7' medium-heavy rod that badly needs refurbishing), but for this one I've already got it to the point where all it needs is a few more coats of epoxy.

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Great looking handle so far. I sanded a cork handle and varnished it to get that good shine. When I went to fish with it, it wouldn't let my hand move around on the handle and wore small blisters on my hand. Good luck with yours and let us know how it works out. Musky Glenn

I'm doing this on a baitcasting rod, so most of the time I'll be palming the reel and not actually holding onto the handle, except with my fingertips. I can see where blisters might be a concern, but the epoxy I'm using is very slick and smooth, so I don't think I'll have to worry about that. The only way to find out is to finish this rod so I can test it, so I'll get back with results when it's done.

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Well, I've got it almost finished; all it needs is another coat of epoxy, but I'm going to wait until the pond freezes over to put the last coat on. I just got my reel for it the other day, and I did some practice casting with it. The handle is very comfortable and sensitive. I don't think blisters are going to be an issue, but I won't be able to give it a thorough shake-down until next summer. As I said before, the epoxy I used is very slick and smooth, and once I polish it it will be even smoother.

I'll post pics when I've got it all the way finished.

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Well, I've got it almost finished; all it needs is another coat of epoxy, but I'm going to wait until the pond freezes over to put the last coat on. I just got my reel for it the other day, and I did some practice casting with it. The handle is very comfortable and sensitive. I don't think blisters are going to be an issue, but I won't be able to give it a thorough shake-down until next summer. As I said before, the epoxy I used is very slick and smooth, and once I polish it it will be even smoother.

I'll post pics when I've got it all the way finished.

Ever finish it? I'd like to see how it turned out.

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Ever finish it? I'd like to see how it turned out.

I did finish it, and I've been meaning to post some pics of it for a couple days but hadn't gotten around to it yet. biggrin.gif

I eventually decided not to apply another coat of epoxy; instead I sanded and polished the epoxy already on there. It's very smooth and comfortable, and I don't think it's going to cause blisters.

Here's a pic:

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I'll post how it works once I get a chance to test it in the spring.

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I am just guessing, from my past experiences, extra weight behind the reel makes the front feel lighter, which is usually a good thing. It is more about balance than total weight. We used to put lead wire around the back of the old fiberglas rods and tape over that for "smoothness". Musky Glenn

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