Pop And Resin Master

[Basscandy92040]

First post on here in a while, been looking at site for awhile.

I am modifying a 5" swimbait by adding a different tail. I glued the tail on and made a POP of the bait. Now I want to pour resin in the mold and have a master bait I can shape. The first time, I didnt bake the POP after and needless to say did not turn out good. Should I seal the POP with the white glue mix first and then the resin. Or will the resin and POP not work together at all?

Thanks,

Cliff

Edited November 2, 2010 by Basscandy92040

[nova]

I've never tried what you are attempting to do, but you will most definately need to dry and seal the POP. The resin will stick to most everything. I would assume the glue will not work. In boat building they use a release agent which I assume is some type of wax compound.

Do some research into fiberglass boatbuilding and you should be able to find out what they use.

www.novalures.com

[Vodkaman]

You are trying to make a resin master, to tidy up and make future molds. This is a good idea and have done similar in the past, so that I could do multi-cavity molds from one master.

I cannot say that it will not work because I have not tried polyester resin in a PoP mold. A hard cast from a hard mold is a recipe for disaster, as the cast could lock everything up. Having said that, you do have a chance because poly resin does shrink a bit. So you could go ahead and try it, but accept the chance that you might lose your mold.

I agree with Nova, poly resin clings to just about everything. I have had success with floor wax, the kind used for polishing tiled floors. But I would imagine any type of heavy wax would do the job. Start off with a thicker coat for safety, if it works, thin it out later. You can improve the surface finish with a heat gun, to smooth the wax surface.

As for sealing the dried PoP mold, consider thinned epoxy. You do have to seal, or the resin will get into the PoP and it will be 'game over'. Bake the mold at the lowest temp possible and wedge the oven door open an inch or two. If you bake too hot and/or too long, the PoP will start to convert back to its original form and turn powdery. If you have scales, you are looking for 30% to 35% weight loss. so if your wet mold weighs 300 grams, your dried mold should weigh 195 - 210 grams. I would go for 210 grams (0.7 x wet weight).

You should post the results, positive or negative, so that we can all learn from your experience.

Dave

[Basscandy92040]

Thanks to both of you guys... Basically I took the lurecraft 575 5" rtv mold that I use often. Poured up some baits, took the tail off of a line through swimbait a glued them together. So I am trying to make new bait...Make sense? I used RTV before to reproduce other baits. So this is a first for me. I will say that the resin into the RTV mold that I have works great for producing master vs gluing down baits and pouring the RTV.

I am going to try both ways, I just poured some resin on the bait while the POP is in the oven. So maybe it will be easier to the POP out of the resin vs the other. I will try both and let you guys no.... should be fun...

Thanks again.

You are trying to make a resin master, to tidy up and make future molds. This is a good idea and have done similar in the past, so that I could do multi-cavity molds from one master.

I cannot say that it will not work because I have not tried polyester resin in a PoP mold. A hard cast from a hard mold is a recipe for disaster, as the cast could lock everything up. Having said that, you do have a chance because poly resin does shrink a bit. So you could go ahead and try it, but accept the chance that you might lose your mold.

I agree with Nova, poly resin clings to just about everything. I have had success with floor wax, the kind used for polishing tiled floors. But I would imagine any type of heavy wax would do the job. Start off with a thicker coat for safety, if it works, thin it out later. You can improve the surface finish with a heat gun, to smooth the wax surface.

As for sealing the dried PoP mold, consider thinned epoxy. You do have to seal, or the resin will get into the PoP and it will be 'game over'. Bake the mold at the lowest temp possible and wedge the oven door open an inch or two. If you bake too hot and/or too long, the PoP will start to convert back to its original form and turn powdery. If you have scales, you are looking for 30% to 35% weight loss. so if your wet mold weighs 300 grams, your dried mold should weigh 195 - 210 grams. I would go for 210 grams (0.7 x wet weight).

You should post the results, positive or negative, so that we can all learn from your experience.

Dave

[Basscandy92040]

Ok, so aftering thinking about it....I did not pour the resin into the POP mold. My wife (Dental field) suggested using Algonite (Sp?) Use in dental field to make copies of your teeth. The stuff they use to make those craft impressions of hands then pour POP to get a hard copy.. So I tried it. Went to Michaels and got some 3D Gel. $14 bux for a small tub. Stuff sets quick like 5 minutes. I was able to push my sample bait in and it made a cool mold. I poured the POP in and it appeared it would work great. Well, when I tried to take out POP I broke off the tail section of the SM Bait... Not a big deal, looks like I can still salvage the POP bait. Next time I will break off the gel mold.

Back to the other night. I poured my resin over the bait and the tail lifted so messed up the resin. FYI do not use lego block with the resin. Starts to melt them... Maybe tape the blocks off if you use the legos....

Pouring baits is a lot easier than trying to make your own master bait that is for sure....

Cliff

You are trying to make a resin master, to tidy up and make future molds. This is a good idea and have done similar in the past, so that I could do multi-cavity molds from one master.

I cannot say that it will not work because I have not tried polyester resin in a PoP mold. A hard cast from a hard mold is a recipe for disaster, as the cast could lock everything up. Having said that, you do have a chance because poly resin does shrink a bit. So you could go ahead and try it, but accept the chance that you might lose your mold.

I agree with Nova, poly resin clings to just about everything. I have had success with floor wax, the kind used for polishing tiled floors. But I would imagine any type of heavy wax would do the job. Start off with a thicker coat for safety, if it works, thin it out later. You can improve the surface finish with a heat gun, to smooth the wax surface.

As for sealing the dried PoP mold, consider thinned epoxy. You do have to seal, or the resin will get into the PoP and it will be 'game over'. Bake the mold at the lowest temp possible and wedge the oven door open an inch or two. If you bake too hot and/or too long, the PoP will start to convert back to its original form and turn powdery. If you have scales, you are looking for 30% to 35% weight loss. so if your wet mold weighs 300 grams, your dried mold should weigh 195 - 210 grams. I would go for 210 grams (0.7 x wet weight).

You should post the results, positive or negative, so that we can all learn from your experience.

Dave

[Vodkaman]

Cliff, you are making progress, lots of experimentation is going to produce a few apparent failures. I say apparent, because they were not total failures, you actually learned from the experience and therefore made progress.

Bondo (polyester car body filler) is a very good material to have around. It takes away the fear of removing too much material when shaping. A thin layer of bondo puts the material back and you are sanding again in 30 minutes.

Dave

[Basscandy92040]

Ok, I put that whole idea on the back burner. I talked a guy who told me about using clay to shape a bait. So I did and it didnt come out too bad....I will post a pic...

Cliff, you are making progress, lots of experimentation is going to produce a few apparent failures. I say apparent, because they were not total failures, you actually learned from the experience and therefore made progress.

Bondo (polyester car body filler) is a very good material to have around. It takes away the fear of removing too much material when shaping. A thin layer of bondo puts the material back and you are sanding again in 30 minutes.

Dave

[Basscandy92040]

Ok, here is what I have in the works now.....

Ok, I put that whole idea on the back burner. I talked a guy who told me about using clay to shape a bait. So I did and it didnt come out too bad....I will post a pic...