Two Color Ripper Bait /production Video

[Vodkaman]

I to use this block but am still having problems with it. Not due to the design but due to my ability to hold the block and duel injectors when I move from mold to mold.

Open to suggestions.....

My guess is that you don’t play the piano.

Other than asking one of the manufacturers to make you a shorter version, which is entirely possible, I can see one solution. Inside the locators and underneath the angled channel, there is room for a threaded hole, into which can be fitted two bars, one each end. They would have to be stepped, to prevent screwing in too far and substantial enough to eliminate any chance of bending. You would also have to fit them to both halves of the adapter, as you need to rotate the adapter, as shown in the video.

This involves machine shop work, which will cost money, but if you know someone, it is an option.

Dave

Edited November 24, 2010 by Vodkaman

[Frank]

I have that figured out will post a pic of the idea I have. I think you will like it. Frank

[GB GONE]

Thanks guys.... I use clamps to put my molds side by side so they aren't far from each other. Downside is, if plastic does leak out from the "parts" seperating, plasic goes into a mold sprue and all production stops. Molds come apart, cleaned out and started up again after clamped. Becoming a PIMA!!!!! :-)

Dave I acually looked at attaching something to the area already machine for the bolt. Like a longer bolt with a handle so there is only one protruding object for me to hang my sleeve one.. LOL!!!!

Jim

[Vodkaman]

Dave I acually looked at attaching something to the area already machine for the bolt. Like a longer bolt with a handle so there is only one protruding object for me to hang my sleeve one.. LOL!!!!

I too thought of utilizing the clamp, but you could only do it on one half.

Looking forward to seeing Franks solution.

Dave

[ranger77]

Thanks guys.... I use clamps to put my molds side by side so they aren't far from each other. Downside is, if plastic does leak out from the "parts" seperating, plasic goes into a mold sprue and all production stops. Molds come apart, cleaned out and started up again after clamped. Becoming a PIMA!!!!! :-)

Dave I acually looked at attaching something to the area already machine for the bolt. Like a longer bolt with a handle so there is only one protruding object for me to hang my sleeve one.. LOL!!!!

Jim

Ghost i was having problems with pressure on the injector when i pushed them down. I talked to frank and he told me to loosen the knobs up on top of the injectors. It was like day and night when working with these. Just thought i would share that but you might have that already figured out.

[GB GONE]

I too thought of utilizing the clamp, but you could only do it on one half.

Dave

It will work with just on one side though Dave as I only have issue with it when it is together and I am moving the blending block and the injectors together. One hand has to be on the injectors and on has to be on the blending block to move everything together. A single handle should work pretty good.

I look forward to Frank's solution as well.

PS Ranger77.. Didn't know about that pressure deal... Thanks!!!

Jim

[Frank]

Just trying to keep it simple. But here you go what do you think of this. And Jim if you want to try it I will send you the block and the center piece to try. I have a few blocks but will need it back. The part on the block is a little thin but it was the first try. Also it is not so intrusive and does not effect the bolck at all. Keeps your hand high so you can see where the parts go together. Frank

[Frank]

I forgot Jim, I talked to Ranger last weekend. He was saying his injectors were not as smooth as mine looks on the video. The trick here is to loosen one of the ball handles and leave it like that. It makes it glide up and down with ease. Frank

[Vodkaman]

Frank, great solution.

Dave

[smallmouthaholic]

Only if the pyrex is cold. Once you have the hot plastic in it, the pyrex is near the hotplate temp and has no problems at all. You risk breaking your pyrex when they are super hot and you put them on a cold aluminum mold or into cold water. The drastic temperature change is the problem, especially if they have a tiny crack or nick in the cup.

Jim

Jim,

I'll take a strong exception to your complete statement. My Pyrex exploded(like a hand grenade) after it was removed from the Microwave and I was holding it @ waist height stirring it.It started to fragment @ the base before exploding. It had NO contact w/ a cold surface whatsoever. You're playing w/fire using Pyrex cups - I did a complete post on the subject months ago w/ an alternative,high and cold temp. lab mixing cup. I guess the problem is the $15.00 each that no one whats to spend for them- that's why I keep reading the silly excuses for using cheap,Pyrex mixing cups.Just Google exploding Pyrex and read on.

Al

[smallmouthaholic]

Frank:

I to use this block but am still having problems with it. Not due to the design but due to my ability to hold the block and duel injectors when I move from mold to mold.

I watch you hold the block with one hand but my fingers do not stretch across the block to hold it so I revert to attempting to hold the block in the center by the wing nut. After a mold or 2, one side of the injector or other slightly lifts and I have plastic leaking all over my molds and table. Seems I can only get 3 molds at a time finished and then the block and injectors get seperated.

Open to suggestions.....

Jim

Jim,

I spoke w/ Kevin @ Bass Tackle many months ago about my dislikes w/ his two color injector.( which I sent back for a refund)

1- the adapter clogs easily after 1 or two molds-(easy fix)

2- the adapter falls off when moving from mold to mold(completely un-acceptable)

3- the thicker aluminum of the two injectors removes the heat from the plastisol( requires thinner materials)

I discussed my recommendations / fixes and was under the impression(after discussion them w/ Kevin) that he was going to proceed w/ constructive changes. That apparently did not happen. I will not use any two-color injection w/ the aforementioned problems for commercial production.

[ranger77]

Jim,

I spoke w/ Kevin @ Bass Tackle many months ago about my dislikes w/ his two color injector.( which I sent back for a refund)

1- the adapter clogs easily after 1 or two molds-(easy fix)

2- the adapter falls off when moving from mold to mold(completely un-acceptable)

3- the thicker aluminum of the two injectors removes the heat from the plastisol( requires thinner materials)

I discussed my recommendations / fixes and was under the impression(after discussion them w/ Kevin) that he was going to proceed w/ constructive changes. That apparently did not happen. I will not use any two-color injection w/ the aforementioned problems for commercial production.

It does take a while to get use too but, I now have a system going and can move quick. I need to make those grips that frank put on there. The reason i didnt give up on it is because it is the only two color injector on the market that will make a precise laminate.

[smallmouthaholic]

Here's the link for measuring cups that can tolerate hot and cold extremes

http://www.containerstore.com/shop?showDS=true&Nmpt=&Ntt=borisilicate+measuring+cups&submit.x=0&submit.y=0&submit=search

Don't bang on them or put un necessary pressure on the rims as they are fragile.

[Frank]

Jim,

I spoke w/ Kevin @ Bass Tackle many months ago about my dislikes w/ his two color injector.( which I sent back for a refund)

1- the adapter clogs easily after 1 or two molds-(easy fix)

2- the adapter falls off when moving from mold to mold(completely un-acceptable)

3- the thicker aluminum of the two injectors removes the heat from the plastisol( requires thinner materials)

I discussed my recommendations / fixes and was under the impression(after discussion them w/ Kevin) that he was going to proceed w/ constructive changes. That apparently did not happen. I will not use any two-color injection w/ the aforementioned problems for commercial production.

[/quote/]

I have come to the realiazation that this system is not for everyone. But MOST people do not do production with it. And do not have multiple molds so I posted the way I do it. This way I can get about 100 or more baits an hour, that is good for me and what I do. If I wanted production a hand injector would not be what I would look at. I wont go into the fixes you have they are your ideas and really dont fix any problems I have. Not saying they wont be done but in my eyes dont see a need. But that is just me. So are you using any other system that is better and parts dont fall off cause I for one would like to see it in action.

On the pyrex thing what do you stir your plastic with? I use a stainless welding rod bent into a loop. Pyrex is a form of tempered glass and is unstalbe but very strong. If it gets chipped or hit with an object that is say pointed it can do what you say it did to you. A butter knife,screw driver or anything with a corner could have done that to the pyrex. I was not there so you are the only one who really knows. I do not ever hold a pyrex cup up and stir it in my hand I put it down on my griddle and then stir. I am not saying my way is the only way it is just my way and works for me( at least for the last year ). Alot of people are using this information in there own way and will adapt what works for them.

I am sorry the system did not work for you but it is not for everyone. Frank

[Romeo D]

This is what I did to keep the block and injectors together. It takes a little getting use to but it works for me.

The the strap stays on the block and pivots a little. I place it between the brackets holding the injectors and slide it over the threaded bolt. When done, I slide it off and grab another block with the same type of strap and refill the injectors. I hope others find this useful for them.

[GB GONE]

Jim,

I'll take a strong exception to your complete statement. My Pyrex exploded(like a hand grenade) after it was removed from the Microwave and I was holding it @ waist height stirring it.It started to fragment @ the base before exploding. It had NO contact w/ a cold surface whatsoever. You're playing w/fire using Pyrex cups - I did a complete post on the subject months ago w/ an alternative,high and cold temp. lab mixing cup. I guess the problem is the $15.00 each that no one whats to spend for them- that's why I keep reading the silly excuses for using cheap,Pyrex mixing cups.Just Google exploding Pyrex and read on.

Al

Well we all have different experiences and opinions. I have used pyrex cups for many years now and thousands of baits later, have only had ony break. It was the split cup I made. I have never had one explode or even break that wasn't altered.

Venture to say that hundreds of thousands of baits have been made with Pyrex cups without issue.

If you don't feel comfortable, get what you feel comfortable with.

Same goes for the laminations process. I never said mine didn't work as it laminates consitently down to the tiniest appendage on any mold I have. Even the thinest tails are perfectly laminated. Other systems cannot do this reliably.

Whatever you are comfortable with, use. Pyrex and Anchor cups have worked perfectly for me so I will continue to use them as I have.

Thanks for the perfect solution Frank!!! It will make it easier to keep making those laminate frogs that are selling for $10 per bag of 5!!!

Jim

Edited November 25, 2010 by ghostbaits

[Frank]

Well we all have different experiences and opinions. I have used pyrex cups for many years now and thousands of baits later, have only had ony break. It was the split cup I made. I have never had one explode or even break that wasn't altered.

Venture to say that hundreds of thousands of baits have been made with Pyrex cups without issue.

If you don't feel comfortable, get what you feel comfortable with.

Same goes for the laminations process. I never said mine didn't work as it laminates consitently down to the tiniest appendage on any mold I have. Even the thinest tails are perfectly laminated. Other systems cannot do this reliably.

Whatever you are comfortable with, use. Pyrex and Anchor cups have worked perfectly for me so I will continue to use them as I have.

Thanks for the perfect solution Frank!!! It will make it easier to keep making those laminate frogs that are selling for $10 per bag of 5!!!

Jim

Perfection for me will never happen. I will always want more and better. I really like your new frogs they look REAL good. Have to get me some so I can copy them. lol Frank

[smallmouthaholic]

Venture to say that hundreds of thousands of baits have been made with Pyrex cups without issue.

Jim

Agreed. I had the same good,experiences for 5 years until...KABOOM-all over the shop floor and me from the waste down There were pieces/little chunks of glass all over the floor and shelves.It's the exploding part that has me snake bitten.I would not have been so alarmed if it cracked and the hot plastisol just leaked out.

[nova]

I have had three cups go on me. The first one exploded because I set the hot cup on my cold SS table. This was quick learning curve; scared the beans out of me.

The next one was also my fault. Pouring in the winter, set the hot cup down on a silicone pad that I use and opened a window right behind it. This time it just cracked.

The third time was with a split cup. When I made this cup I put the metal divider into the cup and sealed it in with JB Weld; by doing it this way you can see the bare metal through the glass and this is where it arched which cause the cup to crack open. Now I paint the cup with JB Weld where the metal is joined to the glass and then install the metal sealing it in with more weld.

Long story short; all of these were preventable with a little more knowledge. We all learn through mistakes and this is why TU is so important. It allows us to pass along these learning curves to each other.

www.novalures.com

Edited November 26, 2010 by nova

[Frank]

Well said nova that is why I try and help all that want it. One of the reasons for the videos is to show people how I do it not that it is the only way, just the way it works for me. You have to remember this is a board without faces just keyboards and opinions that are plentifull. Some actually have done it and some just read about it. Me putting up some of the videos has ruffled a few feathers but I will keep doing it. I am not perfect and do not claim to be. My way is my way and if I see something new and try it, so be it. Just like the rest of you all. I will help in anyway I can because this board has helped me in so many ways I cant begin to count.Frank

[nova]

Frank; what was wrong with the video that stroked some folks against the grain?

I didn't see anything upsetting in it.

www.novalures.com

[Frank]

I am not real sure why people say things that are not true and when you show how it is done they get upset. Lets just say someone says it does not work and I post this showing how to use it they get upset. To me that proves it does but if you are not willing to change the way you do things then any change is not good. Doing these videos is a way of me giving back what I learned here. I have posted them here. They have been posted on other sites but not by me. Frank

[GB GONE]

I spoke w/ Kevin @ Bass Tackle many months ago about my dislikes w/ his two color injector.( which I sent back for a refund)

1- the adapter clogs easily after 1 or two molds-(easy fix)

2- the adapter falls off when moving from mold to mold(completely un-acceptable)

3- the thicker aluminum of the two injectors removes the heat from the plastisol( requires thinner materials)

I discussed my recommendations / fixes and was under the impression(after discussion them w/ Kevin) that he was going to proceed w/ constructive changes. That apparently did not happen. I will not use any two-color injection w/ the aforementioned problems for commercial production.

So have you tried the blending block out made by Bear? It appears to be the same (same name even) but I wonder if you will have the same issues as Kevin's? Does not look any significant changes made but I am looking for information on how the Bear's blending block works if anyone is using it. It appears to be smaller and may fit my hand a little better. Anyone using yet?

Jim

[SHK]

So have you tried the blending block out made by Bear? It appears to be the same (same name even) but I wonder if you will have the same issues as Kevin's? Does not look any significant changes made but I am looking for information on how the Bear's blending block works if anyone is using it. It appears to be smaller and may fit my hand a little better. Anyone using yet?

Jim

it was literally just released for sale Jim, may wanna give it a few

i do like that it is hinged and there are no screws to play with. but i think i will keep the 2 colour set up that i have (not sure yet)

Edited December 14, 2010 by SHK

[powerworm]

i ambe a devout bears customer but i use supplies from alot of different businesses i have several of basstackles blending blocks and the same thing i disliked about bobs molds and such were the nuts and pins i have again with this yet it does work. i cant wait to see how much faster you can clear the cooled plastic out of bears with the slide pin and hinge design i have to give him credit that man doesnt sit still once an idea or process irks him!! and competition makes us consumers more options too choose from there will always be a chev/ford or lowrance/hummingbird difference here but if we were all the same this place would be awful boring!!