Some Createx Thinning Information

[CatchemCaro]

Here is a link I found on you tube. It's an interesting way to thin createx. Are any of you using this method? Pros and cons.

Rich

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZrmNjQYcdg

[Richard Prager]

Here is a link I found on you tube. It's an interesting way to thin createx. Are any of you using this method? Pros and cons.

Rich

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=zZrmNjQYcdg

I've been wanting to try that but I'm having trouble finding the Future. I have been using this and it works very well.

http://jason-jones.com/hobbies/airbrushing/62-homemade-reducer.html

[mark poulson]

Very interesting idea. There are several floor care products out there that are acrylic coatings, not waxes.

I may have to try one.

[Kris]

I have a bottle of Future around somewhere. If I can find it I will try it out and let ya'll know it works.

[spoonbender]

I've used the "Future" for thinning acrylic paints, but it's no longer available, has been re-branded under the "Pledge" name by SC Johnson as "Pledge With Future Premium Floor Finish". Same stuff, just a different name. There may be some generic acrylic floor finishes that are the same as this product, but wouldn't recommend using them unless they have the same chemical make-up. The Future has a mix of water, acrylic polymers (what's in the acrylic paint), a plasticiser called TBEP for leveling and gloss, and DGME, which is a glycol for better mixing. Unless these products are present, don't use it for thinning. Mop and Glo is a floor finish, but has a different chemical make-up, would make a mess of your paint.....been there, done that.

[Kris]

Found my bottle of Future

I'll use the mixture in the uTube video and shoot it tonight.

Do you think this thinning method would work on the acrylic craft paints like Apple Barrel, etc. Straight out of the bottle they are to thick to shoot through and AB but with the this thinning method ???

[spoonbender]

Found my bottle of Future

I'll use the mixture in the uTube video and shoot it tonight.

Do you think this thinning method would work on the acrylic craft paints like Apple Barrel, etc. Straight out of the bottle they are to thick to shoot through and AB but with the this thinning method ???

Yup, mixes well with the WalMart Apple Barrel and Plaid acrylics.....for the colors I've used to date. The only issue I've seen is thinning some of the Plaid metallics......may want to refrain from excessive thinning, will allow the metallic particles to separate and drop to the bottom of the cup....or siphon bottle.

[Kris]

Mixed up some black with the thinning instructions from the video.

It definitely made the black spray smoother.

Wondering if you can just add Future and leave out the water in the thinning mixture. I remember reading on the Createx site about not thinning createx paints with water.

Looking forward to trying this with the craft acrylic paints.

[spoonbender]

I've never used water.....maybe that's wrong but my results have normally been pretty good. There's already a water component in Future...perhaps that's enough.

[mark poulson]

I've used the "Future" for thinning acrylic paints, but it's no longer available, has been re-branded under the "Pledge" name by SC Johnson as "Pledge With Future Premium Floor Finish". Same stuff, just a different name. There may be some generic acrylic floor finishes that are the same as this product, but wouldn't recommend using them unless they have the same chemical make-up. The Future has a mix of water, acrylic polymers (what's in the acrylic paint), a plasticiser called TBEP for leveling and gloss, and DGME, which is a glycol for better mixing. Unless these products are present, don't use it for thinning. Mop and Glo is a floor finish, but has a different chemical make-up, would make a mess of your paint.....been there, done that.

Thanks for the heads up.

[jamie]

Thanks for the heads up.

+1 thanks

[masterlure]

Last month I bought a cratex fluoro paints but I have problems with the thinning. When I do the mix of paint/water the resultant mix is soo liquid. If I do the same process with tamiya with alcohol the result is fine. What I'm doing wrong?

[Fishwhittler]

Last month I bought a cratex fluoro paints but I have problems with the thinning. When I do the mix of paint/water the resultant mix is soo liquid. If I do the same process with tamiya with alcohol the result is fine. What I'm doing wrong?

You are adding too much water. Not all paints are the same thickness right out of the bottle, so a given formula for thinning may not work on another color of paint, or even with another bottle of the same color. I just use a dropper to add water to the paint in the airbrush bowl until I get the paint to the desired thickness.

[masterlure]

You are adding too much water. Not all paints are the same thickness right out of the bottle, so a given formula for thinning may not work on another color of paint, or even with another bottle of the same color. I just use a dropper to add water to the paint in the airbrush bowl until I get the paint to the desired thickness.

Maybe I'm adding too much water, the mix I'm using are 50% paint and 50% water. When I paint my baits the paint is sliding.

[RayburnGuy]

Maybe I'm adding too much water, the mix I'm using are 50% paint and 50% water. When I paint my baits the paint is sliding.

In my limited experience that's way too much water. Like Fishwhittler said, not all colors of paint are the same thickness so there is no set formula for thinning paint. Not even in the same brand of paint. I usually just start out by adding a little reducer and then spraying it. If it still seems too thick I reduce it a little more. Sometimes there is no substitute for experimentation and experience.

[mark poulson]

One of the issues with using water as a thinner is that, at some point, the paint will lose it's film strength, and not cross link properly. Instead, it will be like a layer of stick dust, and be really weak. That's something I learned here on TU. Thanks again to everybody.

Using whatever thinner/reducer is made for that particular paint is the best way to insure that the paint will still perform.

I typically thin my paints, if I need to, until they are the consistency of milk.

[masterlure]

I will try to do the thinner mix like the first post. And I hope to have good results... Thank you for the replays.

;-)

[Deep Cranks]

Just wanted to follow up that I tried the Pledge Future this weekend. I was mainly looking for something to help with the Createx pearls that I shoot (silver, copper, blue, purple). I have tried water, IPA, and the illustration base from Createx. None worked all that well for the tip dry and clogs that I experienced with Pearls. I have an Iwata HP-C with 0.3 mm tip. My next course of action was to purchase a 2nd Iwata with a 0.5 mm tip. Now I don't think that will be necessary.

I'm happy to say that the Future worked really well. I added maybe 10-15% distilled and about 20% Future. I was able to shoot the Blue pearls yesterday much more smooth consistency. Very little tip dry now, so I highly recommend. The paint seemed to adhere very nicely as well. It even helped the fluorescents, white opaque, and transparents shoot more smoothly. These worked well for me earlier, but they are now even better. BTW I found the Future at Menards for $5.99 late last week. It's in a clear/yellow container now.

Edited December 20, 2010 by Deep Cranks

[muskydan666]

Did someone tried the furute to thin autoair paint???and if so those it work good???Thank's.Dan

Edited December 21, 2010 by muskydan666

[mark poulson]

Here is a link I found on you tube. It's an interesting way to thin createx. Are any of you using this method? Pros and cons.

Rich

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZrmNjQYcdg

Rich,

I saw a picture of a nice bass with one of you cranks hanging out of it's mouth on Western Bass.

Congrats!

[68KingFisher]

Guys, if you want to use misc household products to modify your paints, just remember that everything you atomize thru your airbrush and put into the air, you have a chance of breathing into your lungs.....its bad enough to fill your lungs with acrylic paint overspray, but when you start modifying paints with other products and breathing those it could be a bad thing.....So if your gonna do stuff like that, please make sure you have good ventilation and wear a good resperator.

[Hughesy]

I use 4011 reducer by Createx. 4011 Flash Reducer - Fast Dry. Use to thin colors for improved flow, leveling and spray-ability with an acceleration in drying time. For airbrush usage, 4011 Flash Reducer aids with control and preventing over-spray when using smaller tip sizes at lower PSI settings for cleaner lines for detailed work.

[edyer]

Just wanted to follow up that I tried the Pledge Future this weekend. I was mainly looking for something to help with the Createx pearls that I shoot (silver, copper, blue, purple). I have tried water, IPA, and the illustration base from Createx. None worked all that well for the tip dry and clogs that I experienced with Pearls. I have an Iwata HP-C with 0.3 mm tip. My next course of action was to purchase a 2nd Iwata with a 0.5 mm tip. Now I don't think that will be necessary.

I'm happy to say that the Future worked really well. I added maybe 10-15% distilled and about 20% Future. I was able to shoot the Blue pearls yesterday much more smooth consistency. Very little tip dry now, so I highly recommend. The paint seemed to adhere very nicely as well. It even helped the fluorescents, white opaque, and transparents shoot more smoothly. These worked well for me earlier, but they are now even better. BTW I found the Future at Menards for $5.99 late last week. It's in a clear/yellow container now.

I was at Menard's today and bought some Pledge floor product, but it didn't say Future on it. Is this the wrong product?

[CheapTrix]

Sorry to bring this thread back up, but I was doing some research and decided to give the Pledge with Future a try. Problem is....I found two different Pledge products with Future. The first is Pledge with Future for tile flooring and the other was Pledge with Future for wood flooring. Which one is the right product? or does it matter? They both look the same.....clear and the same consistency.

Just want to make sure I get the right stuff.

Thanks,

CheapTrix

[BobP]

It's the clear one designed for tile and vinyl flooring. The one I saw for wood flooring had a slightly amber color.