orionn1 Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 I am getting colors that have a burned hue to them after I bake my leadheads when using the powder water. I vaguely remember that I should let the leadhead dry before baking? is that correct? regards robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psilvers Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 I don't have a lot of experience with powder water, but I do know that you need to let the heads dry thoroughly. The powder water does "dry" quickly, but I woul dleave it for a few hours. I have a question for you - I have tried making some stripes, etc. using the powder water. I mix it up pretty thick. The problem is that it seems like it almost has to be dabbed on instead of being brushed. It seems that if I am coating a white jig with a darker color, and if I brush the paint/water mix on it just moves the paint around and I have bare spots. Do you also have this problem? If not, how do you avoid it? Thanks, Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orionn1 Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 I haven't tried brushing with a traditional brush but I do know if I get to close with the Air Brush I do push the paint around a little bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airbrushextreme Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 let the paint dry first dont bake it while the water is in the paint the liquid base of the powder water will burn before the powder paint has time to heat up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psilvers Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Orion - are you spraying the paint on? If so, how? Which airbrush? Airbrushextreme- I trie dto send you a pm but your mailbox was full. Are you spraying the powder water/powder paint mixture? BTW, I clicked on your profile to see whether you had any photos of your work posted and I wound up adding myself to your fiends list. Sorry, I didn't mean to be presumptious. I am trying to add some features to my jigs and I have tried the powder water, but it seems to be a bit of a paint to brush. Thanks, Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orionn1 Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Ok I will let my heads dry before baking. Yes I am airbrushing . Right now I am just using a cheap airbrush from harbour freight. I want to get a iwata eclispe. Anyone recommend this airbrush or any other. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pirkfan Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 I don't have a lot of experience with powder water, but I do know that you need to let the heads dry thoroughly. The powder water does "dry" quickly, but I woul dleave it for a few hours. I have a question for you - I have tried making some stripes, etc. using the powder water. I mix it up pretty thick. The problem is that it seems like it almost has to be dabbed on instead of being brushed. It seems that if I am coating a white jig with a darker color, and if I brush the paint/water mix on it just moves the paint around and I have bare spots. Do you also have this problem? If not, how do you avoid it? Thanks, Pete I don't have a lot of experience with this stuff either, but here's the things I've experimented with that help. I use a Paasche VL air brush with the number 5 needle. I've found that this needs to be backed off just a bit to get the powder I've been using to spray (my powder may be a bit coarse). I've found that an Ikea "milk frother" works well for mixing the powder and PW. I apply thin coats and dry between coats...this can be speeded up a little by using an embossing gun or heat gun without heating to the point of melting the powder coat (Caution: overheating wet powder water mixtures causes the liquid part of the powderwater to degas and the paint will bubble). I allow the final coating to dry overnight. You can get the dry powder water/powder coating set up by using the embossing gun to melt the coating. I do this so I can apply additional coats of different colors. Once all coats are in place and the coating is dry...I do the final heat curing in a toaster oven. Using a nail and "hanging drop", the stuff works pretty well for making eyes....but you've got to let them dry a long time due to the thickness of the mixture. A toothpick works pretty well for applying some patterns (I used this to apply mackeral "squiggles" to the backs of some slab jigs). The attachments are 100% powdercoating, including the eyes...These are my first tries with this stuff. The slabs were base coated using a fluid bed, then the details were done with powder water mixtures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psilvers Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 I don't have a lot of experience with this stuff either, but here's the things I've experimented with that help. I use a Paasche VL air brush with the number 5 needle. I've found that this needs to be backed off just a bit to get the powder I've been using to spray (my powder may be a bit coarse). I've found that an Ikea "milk frother" works well for mixing the powder and PW. I apply thin coats and dry between coats...this can be speeded up a little by using an embossing gun or heat gun without heating to the point of melting the powder coat (Caution: overheating wet powder water mixtures causes the liquid part of the powderwater to degas and the paint will bubble). I allow the final coating to dry overnight. You can get the dry powder water/powder coating set up by using the embossing gun to melt the coating. I do this so I can apply additional coats of different colors. Once all coats are in place and the coating is dry...I do the final heat curing in a toaster oven. Using a nail and "hanging drop", the stuff works pretty well for making eyes....but you've got to let them dry a long time due to the thickness of the mixture. A toothpick works pretty well for applying some patterns (I used this to apply mackeral "squiggles" to the backs of some slab jigs). The attachments are 100% powdercoating, including the eyes...These are my first tries with this stuff. The slabs were base coated using a fluid bed, then the details were done with powder water mixtures Thanks Pirkfan! That was some great info. I have been messing around with powder with and without the powder water. I only tried spraying the powder/water mix once, but that was through my Badger Sanblaster and that didn't work well. I was also mixing it by shaking the jar - that was probably another problem. I GREATLY appreciate the info. Thanks, Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airbrushextreme Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 I spray very thin wet powder mixed with powder water. My camera wont download to my computer so I dont have any pics up I can paint blades that look better than SOB or strike king and flutter spoons dont even compare to the others I use a #5 needle in a Iwata eclipse bcs not an expensive gun but it does the powder well make sure to use quality thin powder I only use Columbia Coatings or the gun will clog and make sure to mix the paint well I use paasche color cups and a popsicle/corndog stick in a cordless drill to mix mine about 3 minutes on that small cup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psilvers Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 airbrush- Thanks. That also explained a few things! Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rr316 Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 I feel out of the loop on this but where are you guys getting liquid powder from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psilvers Posted December 8, 2010 Report Share Posted December 8, 2010 It is not liquid powder. The product is from Columbia Coatings and is called powder water. You mix it with powder paint and you can brush it on like regular paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orionn1 Posted December 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2010 pirkfan what do you mean hanging drop method for the eyes? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orionn1 Posted December 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2010 Ok I still am getting the burnt color from red. I powder coated with a white base and then airbrushed with red. after i finished all the airbrushing I turned on toaster oven to just a 100 degrees for 5 min just to help dry. There was no color change then. I then let them dry overnight and bake them this morning around 10 am first and 150 degrees for 10 min then put it up to 350 for another 10 mins. Still got the burnt color. Do you think one it wasn't dry enough or two i was using columbia powder for the white base and csi for the red airbrush? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psilvers Posted December 9, 2010 Report Share Posted December 9, 2010 Probably not dry enough. Try drying more than just overnight and do not put in the toaster oven -even if you THINK it is only 100 degrees. Toaster ovens are ofetn wrong. You should get an oven thermometer for a few bucks and use that to adjust temp in the oven. But dry at room temp a couple of days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airbrushextreme Posted December 9, 2010 Report Share Posted December 9, 2010 the CSI powder doesnt do very well with the powder water for some reason I read your reply and I tried it for myself its kind of like it has a different base or make up than the columbia coatings the water flattened some gloss black and pumpkin that I tried it with as well as blistered and burned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pirkfan Posted December 9, 2010 Report Share Posted December 9, 2010 pirkfan what do you mean hanging drop method for the eyes? thanks Making painted eyes with a nail head, you dip just the surface of the nail head in paint (in this case powder water/powder mix), so that there is a convex drop hanging from the nail head. Just touch this to the place you want an eye, and it creates (with a little practice) a perfectly round eye. Do the same with a different color and smaller nail head for the pupil. Making good powder coat eyes was always difficult for me (and I usually just resorted to enamel paints), powder water simplifies the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orionn1 Posted December 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 got to get more colors from columbia coatings before I powder coat powder coat. Most of mine is from protec. Thanks for the info on the eyes pirkfan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...