Anyone used this Style H Do-It Mold ???

[TwoBits]

Its the Style H Spinner Jig SJ-3H-SA. It makes 1/4, 3/8. and 1/2 oz spinnerbaits.

The eyes on this bait protrude. I own the Style H mold Do-It introduced last year that makes the 5/8 oz to 1 oz baits. I really like the recessed eye cavity. But I don't know what to think about the protruding eyes on the smaller Style H.

Is it possible to grind off the eyes that protrude and then drill out a small recess that would accomodate a plastic eye or sticker ?

[Gr8flyz]

I have both molds, and also like the recessed eyes, but don't feel it's necessary for the smaller sizes.

If you don't like the protruding eyes you can fill the eye hole with JB Weld, or just grind them off the heads after you pour.

I usually just paint eyes on the smaller jigs, and the protrusion makes it easy to get them even.

Of course the fish don't seem to care either way!

[dtrs5kprs]

The smaller H is the best spinnerbait mold I have used. Probably the only one that comes close is the old 1/4, 3/8 & 5/16, 7/16 mold that made 2 bullet and 2 "pyramid" head baits (forget the model # but I own two). The H baits paint well, run well, fish well, and mold easily. Super mold all around.

[Markell]

TwoBits, I have been thinking about doing the same thing. I drill out holes in my jigs for weed guards and have had no problems. Because of the protruding eyes, you may want to use some type of wooden vise and a drill press to get the holes even. I would think that it would be hard to keep the bit from slipping off the already protruding eye. But if you filed down the eye before drilling you should have no problems doing it by hand. Let me know how it turns out, that is going to be my next mold purchase.

[TwoBits]

I e-mailed Do-It last summer asking if they would bring out a mold similar to the one introduced last year with the recessed eyes, but one that would make the under 1/2 oz weights. They replied saying something to the effect of possibly in the future.

To modify the baits from their current mold, I think the eyes would have to be filed off. I was considering making something out of plaster to hold the bait while recessing the eyes with a drill press. My concern was whether the smaller baits were thick enough or wide enough to drill out. There may not be enough body to work with.

I would really like to put the 3D eyes on a smaller bait and I like that minnow head design. With so many of the commercial spinnerbait makers going to detailed minnow heads I'm a little surprised that Do-It hasn't made a similar mold.

[dtrs5kprs]

Honestly...detailed heads count for precisely squat when fishing. You need a head that will not roll on contact with cover, runs upright (which the H belly helps out). I powder paint my H heads in silver, white, chart, and less frequently black (buzzbaits), then add red on the protruding eyes and a shad spot just back of the eye (sim to the old hawg caller and LC baits). Think do-it is right on by not making one.

About the only place a realistic head would matter is in clear water. The best way to spinnerbait that kind of water color is to smoke the bait so fast they can't see the head anyway. At least if you cna get the wind to blow.

[TwoBits]

Well dtrs5kprs, thats your opinion and I asked for opinions.

But I happen to think an eye matters. IMO, prey fish zero in on the eye. Why else did God put that spot on the rear fin of the Red Fish other than to fool predators.

I also happen to not like those little protruding eyes on what Do-iT is making now, just something else for little pieces of milfoil and gunk to hang on to. I prefer a sleek head.

If it doesn't matter, then why bother painting the head at all or painting a shad spot????? And actually, the Style C mold would do all the things you want from a SB head, in fact, there's buku SB molds that will do that same thing.

No, I think Do-It would sell many more of these molds if the eye did not protrude. I know this from talking with other's.

[Markell]

As a fisherman, I think eyes are not that important. But I think eyes help make a bait look complete. It's the small details that can make a bait come alive. A good example is the spinnerbait that Celticav gave us in the swap. The white beads are not going to put any more fish in the boat but they really make that bait stand out.

[dtrs5kprs]

Don't misunderstand, eyes and color, including the spot (or maybe that is just for me) are crucial. The bait has to look right...would'nt want a black head on a "snowball" bait, for example.

Just don't think the "finely" crafted heads that are the current rage can really be seen. There are a few that incorporate prism/holo type finishes that probably add to the presentation. Ones I am critical of are those that have molded in scales, etc.

The eyes do catch on grass...not really a problem in my area as our lakes are mostly chunk rock and wood. A bullet or pyramid/triangle is a better choice for lots of grass. The H is a good bait for laydowns, cedars, etc. Very similar to the old hawg caller/manns classic/LC baits head.

[Gr8flyz]

I've been in discussions before about eyes & other details on lures & flies. Opinions definitely vary.

If you sell baits or flies, then the eyes make a difference, because they do sell better. All the high tech details we're seeing on todays lures are mostly just to make them sell better. It's part of the "new & improved" idea that all marketing is based on. It's a fact that consumers want new things, and in the lure or fly business there is only so many new ideas.

I feel that some of the new finishes, and materials being used do improve some baits. Personally I like the holographic finishes. But, as an angler, if the fine details make a difference in the confidence I have in any lure, then they are important to me! They may not be necessary to catch fish, but any lure I have confidence in will certainly be used more. From there it's a matter of probability, use the lure more, catch more fish with it.

As far as paint goes, it isn't needed either, but again, the difference in selling or just using. I paint mine & try to make them look good, as does a lot of the folks here, but I've also caught plenty of fish on bare, unpainted lures, especially spinnerbaits & jigs. Nothing wrong with adding the details, if that's what you want or like to do. There is also some art involved in all of this for most of us.

When we talk about spinnerbaits, let's face it, they don't really look like anything in nature, but they still work. They're a reaction lure, and if the details we add, or don't add improves the success we have with them, then those details are important.

I don't think there is a right or wrong to it. It's an individual thing, so just go with what works best for you!

[TwoBits]

Really, for knockin through wood ..... I don't know if Do-It makes a great design. Stanley's old style spinnerbaits had the best wood design I've seen. They looked more along the lines of Do-It's S Style jig heads. They were broad at the front with little noles on the front corners, sorta like lookin at the back of a bulls head without the horns. Since I began making my own baits years ago, I haven't paid attention to what Stanley is doing now.

And these minnow head design are probably the worst for wood, too easy for them to get jammed into small cracks and crevices. I found a Terminator someone left on a then submerged stump just the other day, and it was wedged tight into the top of the stump.

As much as color and detail is fine tuning, then head design is also fine tuning. The lake I spend most of my time on is a new 1000 acre lake and 700 of those acres are standing timber and brush. Then to complicate that, eurasian milfoil has taken over large segments of the flats. Most of the water I fish has combo wood/grass. There is no perfect head design for those conditions.

[Gr8flyz]

Twobits, I think Do It molds are meant to be "generic" and many of us who sell lures use them because they're relatively inexpensive. I can't afford to have a bunch of custom designed molds made, so I have to use what's available. Besides, I don't think companies like Stanley or any other big lure company would like having their designs copied by Do It.

I use the minnow body spinnerbaits primarily in tidal waters, and the big ones primarily for Stripers. The waters I fish are shallow, and don't have a lot of timber. The wood that is there is mostly pilings & pier supports. If I do get hung up, it's usually not hard to get my lures back because the water is shallow. I use them more as an "edge" bait, along the edges of channels, grass, pads & any other structure I can find.

I also have a "banana" spinnerbait mold which I like better for wood, as it doesn't seem to hang up as much.

[Party Crasher]

Without getting into whether eyes are necessary or not, heres my advise. Rather than wasting time drilling out an eye socket on each head, spend a little time creating recesses in the mold. I've done this; find a nail head or panhead screw (2 actually) slightly larger than the eye size tou want to use. Drill through the tiny eye bumps in the mold making a hole for the nail or screw shaft. Now, put your nail/screw into the hole (cavity side) and through the mold. Then glue it into place using JB Weld. Use the JB weld to fill in any voids around the screw or nail head. Use the JB Weld to fill the slot in the screw if you choose a screw. The shafts will be poking out of the outside of the mold. Clip them off with a side cutter. The JB Weld holds up to the heat suprisingly well.

[Party Crasher]

Another option is to get Do-It's "H" jig mold (BTH-5-A or PGH-5-A) and cut a slot for your wire with a hack saw blade turning it into a spinnerbait mold. Those two molds are the same body shape except they have recessed eye sockets. One has a ball collar and one has a barbed collar. They make five sizes, 3/8ths through one ounce.