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Frankford Arsenal Mold Release

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Pete,

I don't know how long you have beem pouring, but this is the best stuff I've ever used. You will not be sorry that you bought it. Wipe your mold with acetone, lacquer thinner or anything else that doesn't leave an oil residue. Make sure you clean the cavities as well. Let cleaner evaporate. Shake can really well and spray it in all the cavities. Let dry a minute or two. I actually tape off the area I don't want sprayed. This way the stuff isn't all over the place. I have easily poured 300-400 jigs in one cavity with one application. You can tell one way for sure if you need to re-apply. Take your hot mold, and pour lead in a cavity without the hook in it. If the lead doesn't keep on flowing through the cavity you need to apply some more. In another words, as you fill your cavity, you will see lead pour straight from the top and keep on pouring out the bottom of the cavity. This means that the cavity inside is slick and coated. One can goes a long way if you only have a couple of molds.

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Pete,

I don't know how long you have beem pouring, but this is the best stuff I've ever used. You will not be sorry that you bought it. Wipe your mold with acetone, lacquer thinner or anything else that doesn't leave an oil residue. Make sure you clean the cavities as well. Let cleaner evaporate. Shake can really well and spray it in all the cavities. Let dry a minute or two. I actually tape off the area I don't want sprayed. This way the stuff isn't all over the place. I have easily poured 300-400 jigs in one cavity with one application. You can tell one way for sure if you need to re-apply. Take your hot mold, and pour lead in a cavity without the hook in it. If the lead doesn't keep on flowing through the cavity you need to apply some more. In another words, as you fill your cavity, you will see lead pour straight from the top and keep on pouring out the bottom of the cavity. This means that the cavity inside is slick and coated. One can goes a long way if you only have a couple of molds.

Thanks. I am about to go try it, I just have to heat up my lead.

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you will see when the black color wears away, as long as the cavity is black, the release is still working, I also spray core wires etc but due to the constant movement, the coating doesn't last long at all.

Yes you are correct. I was going to mention that as well and forgot.

Edited by cadman
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You know I was so anxious to try it that I did not read all the info on the can (i.e. the part about micron sized particles of graphite). I was expecting it to be clear and i was surprised when it was black. I sprayed it in the sink in the basement and made a bit of a mess, but the wife is out of town visiting her mom, so all was cool.

I tried it with a couple of new molds that I just got. The release was easy, but since I don't have any previous experience with these molds I can't say for sure. In any case, from now on I will be careful to do the spraying out in my work shed!

Soon, I wil get to try it with molds that have been more problematic.

Pete

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did not read all the info on the can (i.e. the part about micron sized particles of graphite). I was expecting it to be clear and i was surprised when it was black.

Pete

That stuff reminds me of pencil lead which is graphite: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_a_pencil_lead_made_out_of

I wonder if you can coat the cavity with a pencil??? :?

Scott

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That stuff reminds me of pencil lead which is graphite: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_a_pencil_lead_made_out_of

I wonder if you can coat the cavity with a pencil??? :?

Scott

Scott, that is an interesting question. I do know you can buy powdered graphite. Don't know if there would be any residual effects on painting though. If you try it let us know what your results are.

Any negative effect with painting???

None whatsoever, I have been using it for about 6 months and I powder paint as well and found no problems .

Edited by cadman
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