rmmb Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 I am new to this board and new to painting crankbaits. I have painted a few and still learning. The clearcoat i used did not last but one fishing trip. I was wondering what was the best type of clearcoat to use on crankbaits after paint has dryed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR KNOW IT ALL KIND OF Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 (edited) ALL OF THEM SUCK.. IF YOU WANT IT TO LAST FOR EVER DONT FISH IT Next question? Just giving making a mild joke about this topic because it has been discuss more than ROE vs WADE on TU. So go read past post and you will find more than enough material on this exact subject. When your done reading all the post you will be a few years older and not any wiser than the rest of us! In the end you will come to the same conclusion as I stated above. YOUR GOAL IS TO FIND THE ONE THAT SUCKS THE LEAST! Edited January 25, 2011 by The_Rookie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR KNOW IT ALL KIND OF Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 OK SORRY I BUSTED YOUR CHOPS!!! Try these clear coat and see which one you like. DICK NITES POR 15 GLISTEN PC BOB SMITH EPOXY 20 MIN TOP CURE After you done testing you will find the one you like the best. Each one is different yet all the ones I gave you will last longer than 1 trip if you apply them correctly. Make sure you scuff your bait before you paint. Shoot a coat of Bulldog adheasive promoter on the bait Prime the bait with good primer Paint the bait and heat set your paint Clear coat your bait in stages.. 1 light tack coat 1 finish coat Heat set your clear coat and get alot of air flow over your clear so the moisture cure..cures! But most important. Have fun and laugh at your mistakes and enjoy the learning process. Hope I helped you out and made some old timers laugh. Later bud and good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmmb Posted January 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 ALL OF THEM SUCK.. IF YOU WANT IT TO LAST FOR EVER DONT FISH IT Next question? Just giving making a mild joke about this topic because it has been discuss more than ROE vs WADE on TU. So go read past post and you will find more than enough material on this exact subject. When your done reading all the post you will be a few years older and not any wiser than the rest of us! In the end you will come to the same conclusion as I stated above. YOUR GOAL IS TO FIND THE ONE THAT SUCKS THE LEAST! Thanks ill read old posts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 Lots of options, I'd break them down into 3 main groups: Epoxies - Devcon 2 Ton, Envirotex Lite, Nu Lustre 55, Flexcoat, etc. All are slow cure epoxies including glues, pour-on epoxy finishes, rod guide epoxies. Brushed on and requires a lure turner to prevent it from sagging while curing. Usually thicker than other finishes but creates an attractive tough waterproof coating. What many painters start with, and still used by many experienced builders. Urethane - Especially moisture cured urethane (MCU) like Dick Nite. Creates a thin tough waterproof coating. MCU is very durable and glossy and you can brush it or dip lures into it. MCU has stringent storage requirements to stop it from curing in the container. Some MCU is sold as floor finishes (e.g., Garco, Famowood). The solvents in MCU make it touchy about compatibility with other solvent based coatings. Auto Clears - Especially 2 part "high solids" auto clears. You mix the urethane and hardener in a prescribed ratio (2:1, 4:1, etc) then spray it usually in 2 coats. Often a thicker coating than MCU but thinner than epoxy. Has limited pot life after mixing and is toxic so use an organic solvent rated face mask while spraying. A beautiful topcoat with durability similar to.... your car!. Search the forum for specific tips, problems, comparisons among the brands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtilley Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 Lots of options, I'd break them down into 3 main groups: Epoxies - Devcon 2 Ton, Envirotex Lite, Nu Lustre 55, Flexcoat, etc. All are slow cure epoxies including glues, pour-on epoxy finishes, rod guide epoxies. Brushed on and requires a lure turner to prevent it from sagging while curing. Usually thicker than other finishes but creates an attractive tough waterproof coating. What many painters start with, and still used by many experienced builders. Urethane - Especially moisture cured urethane (MCU) like Dick Nite. Creates a thin tough waterproof coating. MCU is very durable and glossy and you can brush it or dip lures into it. MCU has stringent storage requirements to stop it from curing in the container. Some MCU is sold as floor finishes (e.g., Garco, Famowood). The solvents in MCU make it touchy about compatibility with other solvent based coatings. Auto Clears - Especially 2 part "high solids" auto clears. You mix the urethane and hardener in a prescribed ratio (2:1, 4:1, etc) then spray it usually in 2 coats. Often a thicker coating than MCU but thinner than epoxy. Has limited pot life after mixing and is toxic so use an organic solvent rated face mask while spraying. A beautiful topcoat with durability similar to.... your car!. Search the forum for specific tips, problems, comparisons among the brands. Thanks!! this is an awesome breakdown, now i have a much better understanding when I walk in the Home improvement store , looking at sealers........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyonmonday Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 ALL OF THEM SUCK.. IF YOU WANT IT TO LAST FOR EVER DONT FISH IT Next question? Just giving making a mild joke about this topic because it has been discuss more than ROE vs WADE on TU. So go read past post and you will find more than enough material on this exact subject. When your done reading all the post you will be a few years older and not any wiser than the rest of us! In the end you will come to the same conclusion as I stated above. YOUR GOAL IS TO FIND THE ONE THAT SUCKS THE LEAST! I have the question of; If all should just go to the search feature, then is there a reason anyone posts at all ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Prager Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 I have the question of; If all should just go to the search feature, then is there a reason anyone posts at all ?? If nobody posted anymore, there wouldn't be any fresh stuff to tell people to "go look up" in the search feature! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Jaras Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 (edited) I would love to tell you that EnviroTex Light is the best but it is the only one I have ever used...I love it and will continue to use it. You will need to build a lure turner though... Search lure rotisserie on youtube and you see what I'm talking about. You can get a really nice one at Walmart for 25 bucks or go on Ebay and order one... If you have any other questions go to a thread I posted called "Help with my top coat" and maybe that will help you... Good luck!!! P.S. the thing you want to help you dry your baits is really a grill rotisserie and you will have to mod it a bit to attach them... Edited January 26, 2011 by Jeff Jaras Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
