heman Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 so decided to give a shot at POP. hit the Dollar Tree store, Home Depot and WalMart for the equipment needed, glue, POP, etc. So i followed the tutorial and i got a bit side tracked and am trying something a bit different. Here are the pictures Taped the worms down but instead of to the tray, I taped them to the lid of the tupperware box. Of course depending on the size of your master this can't always work. By doing this, i figured i dont have to use masking tape to keep the mold attached to the base poured and shook the mix kinda cool that I could see through the bottom and see if how the mix looks surrounding the masters So after i did this.. i started thinking about what problems might arise.. (please chime in if u think of anything.. ) Like i said.. my first time.. so i'm just playin it by ear. any suggestions on how it can be better? or if i missed anything? Is it going to be difficult to separate the box from the lid? Will it leak between the lid and box? (so far it looks good, but i put it in another tray just in case) still waiting for it to set and then i'll try to remove and maybe throw it in the oven to try then seal using 50/50 elmers glue all. I'll update the post when i get there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heman Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Damn just checked my box and looks like i missed something. The Lid of the box isn't flush with the flat of the pan.. so it's slightly expanding that part of the lid.. Hopefully it shouldnt be a huge deal and I can just sand it down a bit to be all even? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 (edited) Damn just checked my box and looks like i missed something. The Lid of the box isn't flush with the flat of the pan.. so it's slightly expanding that part of the lid.. Hopefully it shouldnt be a huge deal and I can just sand it down a bit to be all even? You found the only problem that was on my mind, the weight of the PoP mix deforming the lid when inverted. The box is designed not to deform under normal kitchen applications, so the box bottom is a better place to fix your lures. I am kind of speaking the obvious, seeing that you just posted the same thing, sorry. I do have another point to make though. I make wood frames, fastened with threaded stud and wing nuts, for easy dismantle and mold removal. I got tired of the clean-up, so now I line my boxes with loose acrylic sheets (bottom and sides). The acrylic plates are loose and hold each other in place. Yes, there is a small amoung to leakage, but I found this to be no problem. Clean-up is a bucket of water, dip and wipe. My point, if you have a plastic box were the bottom is not suitable, due to molded shapes (not flat), this acrylic sheet method would make the box useable. Bathroom sealant (RTV) to make a seal. You could even cut a couple of holes in the box to insert your thumbs, to push the mold and plate out. Just a few ideas. Dave Dave Edited January 29, 2011 by Vodkaman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitbull Baits Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 I use 1x4 and cut into 3/4 inch strips and use a wire nail to make a frame. Now the reason I do this is most baits are under 3/4 inch tall and all the molds are the same height. Use less pop then and stack better lol. You still have to sand a few botoms. Now how does the lid come off after it dries? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heman Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 You found the only problem that was on my mind, the weight of the PoP mix deforming the lid when inverted. The box is designed not to deform under normal kitchen applications, so the box bottom is a better place to fix your lures. I am kind of speaking the obvious, seeing that you just posted the same thing, sorry. I do have another point to make though. I make wood frames, fastened with threaded stud and wing nuts, for easy dismantle and mold removal. I got tired of the clean-up, so now I line my boxes with loose acrylic sheets (bottom and sides). The acrylic plates are loose and hold each other in place. Yes, there is a small amoung to leakage, but I found this to be no problem. Clean-up is a bucket of water, dip and wipe. My point, if you have a plastic box were the bottom is not suitable, due to molded shapes (not flat), this acrylic sheet method would make the box useable. Bathroom sealant (RTV) to make a seal. You could even cut a couple of holes in the box to insert your thumbs, to push the mold and plate out. Just a few ideas. Dave Dave Thanks VodkaMan, i'll have to try that out and use the idea with the wing nuts etc. I also was going to try RTV molds next, just thought i'd try this first and see how it goes. I use 1x4 and cut into 3/4 inch strips and use a wire nail to make a frame. Now the reason I do this is most baits are under 3/4 inch tall and all the molds are the same height. Use less pop then and stack better lol. You still have to sand a few botoms. Now how does the lid come off after it dries? Pitbull, thanks for the measurements.. i'll try it out on my next frame over the weekend. Your points all make sense. Question though, for those measurements, how much POP does that approx take to fill? And I don't know how the lid is going to come off yet.. i'll figure it out soon enough i guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 The wood box is fine if you are going to make a lot of molds the same size, as I was. But for one off's it is a lot of work. I would keep looking for plastic boxes with flat bottoms and collect as many different sizes as possible. You cannot beat a plain, flat bottomed poythene box for speed and efficiency. For de-molding, I use my compressor. After flexing the sides of the box, to break the seal, I direct the jet of compressed air at the edge of the mold and it pops out real easy. Just be ready to catch it. If you already have a compressor set up, give it a try. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitbull Baits Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Their not a box.Their just a farme basicly 3/4 x 3/4 x 5 1/2 inches to 12 inches long. I make the frame I need then tape down the bait to a glass sheet I got. Then I use petroleum jelly on the inside of the frame to seal it. Kind of like caulking a window seal. I use a kids messure suringe thing. I fill it full of PJ which isn't fun but works real well to get to the glass and wood. I do rub some on the glass around the bait to help keep the pop from sticking to the glass. After they get hard I just leave the PJ on the mold and throw them in the oven to bake them. The PJ burns off or something either way there is no trace of it on the mold. I can post some pictures of the frames and how I mount them if you need help heman. I am going to be making some more tomarrow night maybe. I have 4 different sizes right now. I do have some extra wood sticks I didn't use so I can show you the size of the wood sticks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heman Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Ok, dried fairly quick and the lid came off pretty easily as well. The masters came out fairly easy also. I was able to pop out the mold without a lot of effort just by flexing the sides a bit. Although some of the edges were a bit weird cause of the shape of the box, but it wont matter cause i need to round off the edges with a knife anyhow. Kind of funny to see the logo of the lid on my mold as well . i'll shave the edges and pop it in the oven next. Then seal it. I'm very happy with the first time result.. can't wait to get a pour on it once it's all sealed up. Pitbull, if you have time i'd love to see some of the pictures you mentioned regarding the frame. I may give your technique a shot next time as well. Vodkaman, i agree, i need to find some better sized boxes, I have some bigger baits that won't fit this, but i'm pretty happy with my results so far. Future plans I have.. -Try out RTV and Resin (just to see how these all work) -Try to make some 2 pieces molds for some hand pouring (at least until I get an injector) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Looking very good Heman, I'm sure that lid deformation will make hardly any difference to the pour. Good first mold. Don't switch to RTV too quick. Work with PoP for a while. Get real comfortable with it, use it to get all the mistakes out of the way. Try out Pitbulls method and other methods, to find what works best for you. THEN switch to RTV. Making mistakes with PoP costs cents, mistakes with RTV costs dollars. Technique with RTV is no different to PoP. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitbull Baits Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Sorry forgot to tell you what I use to make pop. 2 cups pop and 2 cups water. I kind of have just started eye balling it now. Sine I have diffferent size frams and make it more watery. If you can try and find some Air-Rid to spray on the masters before you pour the pop on. It will help get rid of the sir bubbles that will stick to the master. They sell it Hobby Lobby type places. Its by the casting items that kids make hand prints in and stepping stones kits. Its under $5 for it. I got some and when I make 10 molds maybe one comes out bad but thats prally cause of the maker. I fired him the other day lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Check out this link also. pop mold link Mark added photos as well. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnybassman Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 For mold boxes I have been using strips of aluminum angle I bent up on the brake for a different project. The angle is about 3/4" by 1 1/4". Just add up the four dimensions and cut to length. Cut the short side of the angle at the alternating dimension lengths, and bent the longer side in a bench vise. I have been using the double sided tape for holding the baits, and just go out beyond the mold box edges so that sticks as well. Finish off with duct tape and the box is done. I've only made RTV molds (except for my very first mold with DWP) but imagine this would work with pop also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heman Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 (edited) wnybassman, thanks for the pictures.. i will def give RTV a shot later one. What would you use to trim any extra flaps around the molds once u remove the masters? I can see just shaving them off in pop mold link Mark added photos as well. Jim Jim, thanks for the link. Definitely saving that project for next time after i get some of these one sided ones down. Edited January 29, 2011 by heman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnybassman Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 wnybassman, thanks for the pictures.. i will def give RTV a shot later one. What would you use to trim any extra flaps around the molds once u remove the masters? I can see just shaving them off in POP, but how would you do it in RTV? Let me start out by saying I am a newbie at this also. Just started pouring this past fall. The first RTV mold I made I used tweezers and a new utility knife blade to remove any extra RTV that needed to be removed. Wasn't too bad, but kinda choppy, and the blade really didn't cut as good as I thought it would. The mold still turned out very much usable though! I read on here somewhere that tiny fly tying scissors were used. I didn't have any of those, but I used my wife's smallest hair cutting scissors (shhhh!) and the tweezers to carefully trim off the excess. I personally started out with RTV mainly for one reason, I wanted to made as much of a 3D bait as I could without making a 2 piece mold. I made a mold for stick baits that are about 7/8ths round and Beavers that have nice rounded sides. The first mold I made was for erie darters, and the fins on the sides of the bait were fatter down in the mold, making it difficult to extract the finished bait. RTV is nice and flexible for all these applications. I've been using the Smooth-On Oomoo RTV, and for one $25 order I can make 4 molds. $6 to $7 for a custom RTV mold is good in my book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 wnybassman, Is this the stuff you use: http://www.dickblick.com/1/1/8977-2-8-lbs-smooth-oomoo-30-silicone.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnybassman Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 wnybassman, Is this the stuff you use: http://www.dickblick...0-silicone.html Same stuff, but I use the Oomoo 25 with the 75 minute cure time, rather than the 6 hour cure time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
