nitro98 Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 look if you want a bull shad/high power herring tail use microfibbet. as someone already showed you Mr. Hopkins is the master at this. If you want clack use lexan and pin it in the slot so it can move back and forth. if you want both groove the lexan, put some microfibbet in the groove and epoxy the end of the lexan tail. Seeing as this is something you want to do and nobody has the answer your looking for, the best suggestion anyone on here can give you is to do it by trial and error and figure it out to suite your needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.dsaavedra. Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 (edited) look if you want a bull shad/high power herring tail use microfibbet. as someone already showed you Mr. Hopkins is the master at this. If you want clack use lexan and pin it in the slot so it can move back and forth. if you want both groove the lexan, put some microfibbet in the groove and epoxy the end of the lexan tail. Seeing as this is something you want to do and nobody has the answer your looking for, the best suggestion anyone on here can give you is to do it by trial and error and figure it out to suite your needs. yeah this is a good one. Edited February 3, 2011 by .dsaavedra. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
21xdc Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 I'm gonna paint it to "Match" the bait... I was not successfull with making bristle fins for the ms slammer... So I made some clacker tails, painted and epoxied them. They have some transparency to them. I might make some more from lexan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saffie Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 (edited) This is probably not new, but I have used Lexan and cut it into a tail fin shape. Then I used an exacto knife to score the lexan on both sides. Next I used some black createx and it rubbed over the scored lexan, use a clean cloth to wipe off excess paint. This leaves paint in the score marks and it looks like the veins in a fin. Dip it in some DN to waterproof and you are good to go. Edited February 21, 2011 by Saffie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 This is probably not new, but I have used Lexan and cut it into a tail fin shape. Then I used an exacto knife to score the lexan on both sides. Next I used some black createx and it rubbed over the scored lexan, use a clean cloth to wipe off excess paint. This leaves paint in the score marks and it looks like the veins in a fin. Dip it in some DN to waterproof and you are good to go. Try using 80 grit sand paper after you do the score lines, parallel to the lines. It gives the lexan even more bite for paint. If you sand it after you do your first paint in the score lines, you might be able to add some contrasting colors. I do that with sharpies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtrs5kprs Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Anyone tried fiber weedguard material? Lots of colors, easy to fuse the loose ends against a hot pot. Just poured a bunch of FB heads today and thought of this post. Know you can fuse them in a varietyy of patterns/thickness as I've done so to fit various molds. Seems like it might be better than paintbrush bristles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
