tclark Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 I like the idea of coming up with my own lure designs, but realized I have no clue what the best way to do that is. How do ya'll do it? What do ya'll use? I'm just planning on making pop molds. Do you just use modeling clay or something like that? How do you get things like claws and appendages symmetrical? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesse1378 Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 i went through and grabbed a crap load of old baits. looked blankly at the mess i had just made. grabbed a monster, scissors, razor and superglue. and just start frankensteining the crap out of things. some came out well. made POP molds and the baits were ok. some were a disaster. but its fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwv Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 I do the same thing. Frankenstein 'ing is better for me, I'm not artistic enough to carve so i just glue and play. Paca chunk and a beaver body makes a nice lookin crawl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tclark Posted February 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Yeah I've been digging through my worms to try to come up with something cool; guess I'll stick to that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 When I first started I used sculptey to make my masters. I shortly moved over to just carving the masters from wood because I enjoy it more and more straight forward in making the master (not that sculptey is difficult to use but found myself going through many of the same processes as I do with wood). There is something more satisfying about it for me. As far as symetry that is something I believe one just picks up as they progress. Calipers and other tools make it easier to start with the same "blank" to form into claws for example. With wood I start with a squared piece and can transfer my pattern centered onto the wood. I also mark key points for reference so I have squared reference lines if I have one flat side and freehand the lines on two sided baits. I recently did a small swim bait/paddle tail design, while I didn't take pictures from start to finish I have a few pictures that show the process on a flat sided bait. 1. Draw design on either graph paper or on the computer utilizing whatever software you are comfortable with using. Just basic paint will work. I draw a side profile and then a top profile. 2. Square a piece of wood for transfer of pattern. 3. Divide the wood into sections and mark key points by utilizing a square. For example where the eyes will go, gill slit, back of belly, etc...... 4. Transfer the pattern onto the block and then go to the bandsaw to cut away the bulk excess. 5. Sand and ever cut surface smooth and make no attempt to shap yet. After smooth I will then transfer the reference lines from the top onto the cut surfaces and make sure they wrap around and join. 6. Carve, sand, etc. to desired shape. 7. After I am finished I will dampen the bait to raise grain and sand again. Use wood puddy to fill any imperfections and correct my screwups and sand. Perfectly smooth surface is key. 8. Seal the bait utilizng Zillsner Shellac (spray). Sand lightly and spray again. 9. I like RTV better for molding since it is much more forgiving and allows one not to worry as much about design of bait, with POP and Durham's rock puddy one can design a bait that will effectively lock it into place as it sets. If using POP or Durhams just visualize the bait and how the mold will form to determine if you are going to lock it in place and change the master to avoid these issues. From my pics the eye sockets, areas of the gill plate and the tail would have locked the bait in place if using a solid molding medium. You can see in the RTV mold the areas that would have been issues. 10. With wood I just have an assortment of plexi glass bottoms with pilot holes (recessed for screw heads) and screw the master to the base. With all things don't get discouraged as even with careful steps it isn't going to be exactly the same. Also be prepared to make changes to the bait after you get plastics. Redesign is often necessary so all your hard work may find its way to the trashcan or a "shelf of shame" At Step 3 just haven't transferred lines, from top around bait. Finished master, At Step 9. RTV molds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Excellent writeup Travis, my method is just about the same. The only differences are that I use polyester resin and polyester filler (Bondo), I top coat with D2T epoxy, to get a glossy finish. Just to expand on point No7, no need to worry about making mistakes or removing too much material. You can always add the material back with the fillers. Some of my masters look like patchwork quilts, as I re-work them until I am happy. If I want to try different variations of the master, I will take the master so far, then make a mold. Then I can pour several resin sub-masters and continue the shaping design, a bit like doing a back-up. If I am working with fiddly appendages, legs, antennas etc, I cut them separately and loosely peg them to the body. All my initial design is done on CAD, but that is just because I can. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tclark Posted February 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Wow, thanks for the great replies guys--looks like ya'll have been doing this a while! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tclark Posted February 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Where do ya'll get the rtv for the molds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Where do ya'll get the rtv for the molds? I use smooth on products typically but many places one can get acceptable RTV. Mold Max 30 is what I typically use. http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubber-an/c2_1113_1135/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 If I like the prototype, I make a POP mold. Plastic prototypes are much easier to get out of the pop cavity vs. using clay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 If I like the prototype, I make a POP mold. Plastic prototypes are much easier to get out of the pop cavity vs. using clay. Frank's back. Nice to see you on again. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpoonMinnow Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 Frank's back. Nice to see you on again. www.novalures.com Thanks , same here. It amazes me all the talent on this site! Considering some of the ugly stuff we all posted pictures of and sold years ago, it's no wonder most of us have imporved considerably. I know I have. (aka Senkosam) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallie Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 I use smooth on products typically but many places one can get acceptable RTV. Mold Max 30 is what I typically use. http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubber-an/c2_1113_1135/index.html I use Smooth On Oomoo 25 but I do have a digital scale so I could go to Mold Max. Do you know if Mold Max 30 makes better molds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 I use Smooth On Oomoo 25 but I do have a digital scale so I could go to Mold Max. Do you know if Mold Max 30 makes better molds? Either would be fine. I just have always stuck with Mold Max 30 since I was familiar with the product from making molds for foamies. . I just use the Mold Max 30 because I always have had it on hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks Lures Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 Just new to this tried to add a reply, spent a bunch of time about how I come up with a design for a lure and don't see it listed. Think I just figured out I have to check then click add reply. will try to add my info by next weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pernluc Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 Just new to this tried to add a reply, spent a bunch of time about how I come up with a design for a lure and don't see it listed. Think I just figured out I have to check then click add reply. will try to add my info by next weekend. I started with with making my design out of epoxy putty. sanding and shaping til i get the desired look. Then make a master blank mold out of silicone putty. Pour a few baits with junk plastic to test their function. Then pour several and make pop mold. The epoxy putty is very workable for a few minutes and you can always do this in stages. For instance ill do the body of a swimbait then add fins and a tail once i get the body where i want it. On small swimbait molds Ive found that if you drill a very small hole in the bottom of the tail section it will pour way more completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks Lures Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 I like the idea of coming up with my own lure designs, but realized I have no clue what the best way to do that is. How do ya'll do it? What do ya'll use? I'm just planning on making pop molds. Do you just use modeling clay or something like that? How do you get things like claws and appendages symmetrical? Well when it comes to a new lure design. Answer to "no clue" No clue = I just want a lure New design = The best design that I think will work for what I am fishing for. Been doing this for 30 years, that was a question I asked myself after the first several failures. A new design needed a reason and a passion to work. This year, it is a 7 plus pound Largemouth Bass in Michigan. On my bucket list, not a bucket mouth, just something I want to achieve before I pass the fishing rod. Answer to "how do you do it" this is combined with "How do you do it", I use soft plastic designs as that has been the best in the MIdwest for me for 30 years, have em all from the Rapala, Rattle Trap, etc..... Even Buck Perry's trolling system of lures. (That is when I started getting serious 25 years ago), read up and learn the father of structure fishing, as we know it today. Symetrical parts, Make one out of Sculpy fire the part and make a copy. Exact "Symmetry", both parts exactly the same, I personally don't think is that important, Repala notes how you can "tune" a lure to fit your needs (or at least they used to have such information) In My opinion a unique lure, is something the fish has not seen before. That is why we make our own. Easiest way to make a POP mold is to cut up soft plastics you like, super glue them back together, and make your POP mold. Then if you like the lure and are a perfectionest (like used to be) and want to get both sides the same. Put some Sculpey in the mold, squish it in good, fire the part, or a couple to use the same side for both sides of a new lure. Clean it up with little files or even a pocket knife (my favorite) glue it together and make your perfect lure Best of Luck, good fishing Hope this helps Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anselmo Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 I like the idea of coming up with my own lure designs, but realized I have no clue what the best way to do that is. How do ya'll do it? What do ya'll use? I'm just planning on making pop molds. Do you just use modeling clay or something like that? How do you get things like claws and appendages symmetrical? I've recently been experimenting with green carving wax aka jewellers wax So far it look the business: - excellent detail reproduction - easy to carve - hard enough to be practical - relatively cheap I use RTV for the mold itself Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
