Do-it Wacky Jig Mold

[Crymdawg]

Hey there fellow jig pourers; I'm wondering if any one has tried the new Do-It Wacky Jig mold WCK-5-AWG. I got mine recently and poured a few jigs with the smaller of the two size hooks for the mold. To say the least I was not happy with the results. Almost every single pour had lead escaping past the jig body requiring a massive amount of filing. Additionally the eye of the small hook got filled with lead on the majority of the pours. I know that I had the hooks and the hair like weedguard in their correct locations in the mold. Now I did not have the cavities sprayed with "release spray" but I did smoke them with a candle prior to the pour and did warm the mold and the hooks prior to the pours. Just trying to make the best product with the least amount of aggrevation, so any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

[cadman]

I just got the mold yesterday and am going to try it in the next couple of days. I will give you feedback when I pour.

I will tell you somethings that I did not like that Do-It did.

#1 Proprietary hooks. To me that is the biggest turn off in buying a mold and a bunch of C**P. When you can only buy a 100 count on hooks and they all come from Do-It I think that, that is just not right. Yes it's good for the company because you have to buy from them , but it keeps the hook prices high and you then have to pass it along to a customer without any options.

# 2 The other thing is that wire weedguard. Again proprietary product, also I think that the weedgurd wire could be a little thicker.

With that said, I am having the mold recut to accept different hooks and in a multitude of sizes, also on the weedguard wire you can use a heavier wire, heavy mono, flurocarbon or sevenstrand as well.

All my molds are Do-It molds and I don't want to bash them but they have done this in the past with other molds, and I think that it is just not right. Other than that Do-It makes an excellent product and their customer service is excellent as well. JMO

Anyway, I will give you feedback back in a couple of days on their new mold.

Edited February 16, 2011 by cadman

[bass100]

I have had the mold for a couple of months and it pours great. I only use the #2 hooks. I have poured 500 times out of it already and have had no problems at all. Unfortunatley, I have been waiting 3 weeks for my hooks and weed guards that are on back order.

Edited February 16, 2011 by bass100

[Long Lake Lures]

Hmmmm.Sounds like there could be an issue with your mold. Did you check for anything that could be preventing the mold from closing completely? Mine makes flash-free jigs, even in the smaller sizes, and it doesn't sound like the others are having the flashing problem that you describe either.

Some feedback that I can share is that the hooks and weedguards are a PIA to place in the mold as they tend to move very easily. I am also going to order some 0.012 wire from hagens instead of the weedguards in the future Another thing that I noticed is that the 1/16 oz heads tend to get loose if you remove the sprue with too much twisting.. I haven't fished these yet since we are still frozen over so nothing to report there.

And to Cadman's point, everyone is sold out of the larger size hooks. LPOL has a replacement from Mustad, but they cost 2X as much. Did anyone try these yet?

Hope this helps,

Dave

[cadman]

Hmmmm.Sounds like there could be an issue with your mold. Did you check for anything that could be preventing the mold from closing completely? Mine makes flash-free jigs, even in the smaller sizes, and it doesn't sound like the others are having the flashing problem that you describe either.

Some feedback that I can share is that the hooks and weedguards are a PIA to place in the mold as they tend to move very easily. I am also going to order some 0.012 wire from hagens instead of the weedguards in the future Another thing that I noticed is that the 1/16 oz heads tend to get loose if you remove the sprue with too much twisting.. I haven't fished these yet since we are still frozen over so nothing to report there.

And to Cadman's point, everyone is sold out of the larger size hooks. LPOL has a replacement from Mustad, but they cost 2X as much. Did anyone try these yet?

Hope this helps,

Dave

Dave,

Thanks for the info. I guess I won't be pouring yet because I'm waiting for hooks. For those that would like to know, the Mustad 38109 is an ideal hook replacement for this mold in all of it's sizes and in all of the cavity sizes. However, you must modify the hook eye in the mold's cavity.

[wnybassman]

Dave,

Thanks for the info. I guess I won't be pouring yet because I'm waiting for hooks. For those that would like to know, the Mustad 38109 is an ideal hook replacement for this mold in all of it's sizes and in all of the cavity sizes. However, you must modify the hook eye in the mold's cavity.

I've run about a hundred jigs through this mold with both size 2 and 6 hooks. No issues. No release agents or candle sooting either. Just started pouring straight out of the package. I find it pours easier than other molds of mine.

I have two minor complaints though.

1. The ball ends up being a little loose on the hook. Can't go anywhere on the bend, but it's a little loose. Powder coating tends to firm it up though.

2. You need the precision of a brain surgeon to get both the hooks and the hook guard in properly. lol I've got better, but you can't be all hopped up on coffee when doing it

[cadman]

2. You need the precision of a brain surgeon to get both the hooks and the hook guard in properly. lol I've got better, but you can't be all hopped up on coffee when doing it

That reminds me of the Ear Ball mold I have from Do-It. It takes two stn. stl. eyelets which need to be pressed onto the pins in the mold to keep them in place when you pour. Everything is fine when the mold is cold but when that mold get really hot, it's hard to press the eyelets onto the pins, with your fingers because you'll burn your fingers. I tried long nose pliers, flat pliers and many other things. I've yet to find an easy way to put those on. Also I have small hands so I can imagine a guy with big hands trying to do this. Makes for some very colorful conversation between myself and the mold when I am doing this.

Edited February 16, 2011 by cadman

[powerworm]

what i did was buy a spool of the wire from hagens and cut my own just a tad longer and bend it around the hook shank in a "u" shape and it stays in place fine. as for powder coating i havent done that i just paint them with my airbrush

[Ogajiga]

Hey, Cdawg, figured & fixed your flash problem yet? I agree with Long Lake that your mold is possibly not closing completely. Did you check for mold closure tightness by examining in a strong light? If theres a crack with light shining thru between the closed mold halves could be:

1. A small bump(s) on the mold face(s). If its stuck on grit or a lead fragment(s) should be removeable with a wooden implement like a toothpick or a popsicle stick. Or if really stuck, with a razor blade being careful not to shave off any mold metal.

2. Mold faces not flat. Can be fixed by taking down the high spot(s), but probably better to return to mfg.

3. Improper pin position(s). This would cause the mold faces to fit at an angle. Definitely a return to mfg. issue.

4. Oversize hooks or wire preventing full mold closure. Hooks with off center eyes or points will have the same effect.

[Crymdawg]

Hey, Cdawg, figured & fixed your flash problem yet? I agree with Long Lake that your mold is possibly not closing completely. Did you check for mold closure tightness by examining in a strong light? If theres a crack with light shining thru between the closed mold halves could be:

1. A small bump(s) on the mold face(s). If its stuck on grit or a lead fragment(s) should be removeable with a wooden implement like a toothpick or a popsicle stick. Or if really stuck, with a razor blade being careful not to shave off any mold metal.

2. Mold faces not flat. Can be fixed by taking down the high spot(s), but probably better to return to mfg.

3. Improper pin position(s). This would cause the mold faces to fit at an angle. Definitely a return to mfg. issue.

4. Oversize hooks or wire preventing full mold closure. Hooks with off center eyes or points will have the same effect.

I'll have to check for the issues that you mentioned. Since the hooks are so small and the grooves for their shafts not that large I'm guessing that JUST ONE being out of place could really be the cause of the problem. I'm going downstairs into "The Man Cave" very shortlyand will give the mold a look.

[Munkin]

Has anyone tried bending other hooks to get them to work?

Allen

[Crymdawg]

I'll have to check for the issues that you mentioned. Since the hooks are so small and the grooves for their shafts not that large I'm guessing that JUST ONE being out of place could really be the cause of the problem. I'm going downstairs into "The Man Cave" very shortlyand will give the mold a look.

Well I checked and now see CLEARLY that there is an issue with the mold. The problem being that when I hold the closed mold up to a light I see SIGNIFIGANT light thru each pour hole. It appears that my unit needs to be milled a few thousands of an inch on each side to close completely. Now the big problem is how to get it corrected with Do-It. Has any one ever returned a faulty mold to them for repaire/replacement ?? If so what documentation do I need?? I bought the mold thru a catalog seller, so do I return it to them or Do-It ?? Heck with the cost of postage I could possibly take it to a machine shop to see if they could shave the excess off.

Well I just checked the Do-It web site and looks like I have to return it to the catalog seller . I wonder how long it would take them to correct the issue??

Edited February 18, 2011 by Crymdawg

[cadman]

Well I checked and now see CLEARLY that there is an issue with the mold. The problem being that when I hold the closed mold up to a light I see SIGNIFIGANT light thru each pour hole. It appears that my unit needs to be milled a few thousands of an inch on each side to close completely. Now the big problem is how to get it corrected with Do-It. Has any one ever returned a faulty mold to them for repaire/replacement ?? If so what documentation do I need?? I bought the mold thru a catalog seller, so do I return it to them or Do-It ?? Heck with the cost of postage I could possibly take it to a machine shop to see if they could shave the excess off.

Well I just checked the Do-It web site and looks like I have to return it to the catalog seller . I wonder how long it would take them to correct the issue??

Crymdawg,

Call Do-It up and explain the situation to them. They will have you send it back and they will look at it and fix it if it is their fault. I have always had good customer service from them. It usually takes about 3 days for them to evaluate the problem. Speak to them first. If they tell you to go back to the store then that's different. Here is there toll free phone number 1.888.984.3648

PS: You may have to send a copy of the receipt, however I doubt it because they know this is a new mold for them this year. Let us know how it goes.

Edited February 18, 2011 by cadman

[wnybassman]

I just ran out to the barn and checked mine because I was curious. I held it up to the light and saw a fair amount of light through the pour holes as well. Most of the light was emanating through the hook hole on the other side of the head cavity, and there was even some crack light coming in around the hook hole and the pour hole. Not much, but definitely enough gap for light to come through.

[Crymdawg]

Just talked to the Do-It Tech support employee who has been there for 30+ years. He suggested that I pour with the lead a bit cooler than the 7 or 8 setting on my Lee IV pot. He also suggested pouring without hooks to see what happens. Well I did just that and had pours with no flashing in the mold area. My problem could have been the hooks (being so small) came out of position and would not let the mold close properly. I'll have to get abit more experience with this mold to learn its nuances.

FYI- CADMAN the tool free number you listed is not correct. It send you to one of those "Chat with the hot chick" lines.

[cadman]

FYI- CADMAN the tool free number you listed is not correct. It send you to one of those "Chat with the hot chick" lines.

Crymdawg,

I am so sorry, I checked the number again, and I apparently read the wrong numbers. It should be 1.866.984.3648

I guess when I replied at 12:02 a.m. my eyes weren't so good, couldn't read the numbers correctly..........................It sucks getting old. I do appologize.

[Vodkaman]

Crymdawg,

I am so sorry, I checked the number again, and I apparently read the wrong numbers. It should be 1.866.984.3648

I guess when I replied at 12:02 a.m. my eyes weren't so good, couldn't read the numbers correctly..........................It sucks getting old. I do appologize.

She prolly thought Crym was an S+M freak, as he rambled on about jigs and hooks.

Dave

[Crymdawg]

She prolly thought Crym was an S+M freak, as he rambled on about jigs and hooks.

Dave

Hey Now, I'm trying to lead a cleaner life now a days !!!

[Crymdawg]

Hey, Cdawg, figured & fixed your flash problem yet? I agree with Long Lake that your mold is possibly not closing completely. Did you check for mold closure tightness by examining in a strong light? If theres a crack with light shining thru between the closed mold halves could be:

1. A small bump(s) on the mold face(s). If its stuck on grit or a lead fragment(s) should be removeable with a wooden implement like a toothpick or a popsicle stick. Or if really stuck, with a razor blade being careful not to shave off any mold metal.

2. Mold faces not flat. Can be fixed by taking down the high spot(s), but probably better to return to mfg.

3. Improper pin position(s). This would cause the mold faces to fit at an angle. Definitely a return to mfg. issue.

4. Oversize hooks or wire preventing full mold closure. Hooks with off center eyes or points will have the same effect.

Well gang I stand corrected and am humbled. Yesterday I poured a bunch more of the jigs and was more careful about hook placement as well as the weed guard. Had ZERO flash issues !! Additionally I had my lead on a LOWER Temperature setting and the pot was not as full as before. I was less than 1/2 full yesterday. I guess that when you are making finessjigs there is also a certain amount of finess that goes into making them.

There was another post about bending other hooks to fit. Well yesterday I tried and was successfull in bending some small 1/0 short shaft jig hooks that I had bought on a close out from Jann's. They are MUSTAD but don't remember the model number. I believe they may be out of production. Just bent the shaft angle from 90 degree to something less using needle nose pliers.

And YES there is a problem with the larger weights having LITTLE to NO extra room at hook eye. I'm using the #6 hooks. Now to powder painting !!

[bassin75]

I just seen on Barlow's tackle that Mustad has a wacky hook out for this do-it mold. They are Mustad Wacky Hook #428399 (size #1 only). Thought everyone would like to know in case they needed some quickly that are in stock.

[Crymdawg]

I just seen on Barlow's tackle that Mustad has a wacky hook out for this do-it mold. They are Mustad Wacky Hook #428399 (size #1 only). Thought everyone would like to know in case they needed some quickly that are in stock.

Yes I noticed that myself. That is a Size 1 hook which is a bit larger than the one they (Do-It) are listing as "out of stock".

What I was lucky enough to find out is that by slightly bending a MUSTAD 32761 BR sixe 1/0, 90 degree hook, at the shaft bend I'm able to change the 90 degree to the angle needed to fit into the Do-It mold. The 32761 hook is a short shaft model that I bought at Jann's Netcraft. I believe that Mustad no longer makes them. But the short shaft design works OK for me. Now to just get some of the super thin wire for the wee guard instead of paying $9.00 for what Do-It sells.

[Crymdawg]

what i did was buy a spool of the wire from hagens and cut my own just a tad longer and bend it around the hook shank in a "u" shape and it stays in place fine. as for powder coating i havent done that i just paint them with my airbrush

I recently bought some 0.016 inch wire. The premade wires from Do-It are 0.012 inch. Should that slight difference in diameter make that much of a difference?

[Crymdawg]

Dave,

Thanks for the info. I guess I won't be pouring yet because I'm waiting for hooks. For those that would like to know, the Mustad 38109 is an ideal hook replacement for this mold in all of it's sizes and in all of the cavity sizes. However, you must modify the hook eye in the mold's cavity.

I was wondering other than the Mustad size 1 hook has any one measured the angle to see if another hook would fit if I DON'T want to mess with modifying the mold ?? I realize the hook wire diameter might be different but so many catalogs sell a similar looking jig with considerably larger hooks so there must be something close that would not require major modification.

Ray

[BBK]

I was wondering other than the Mustad size 1 hook has any one measured the angle to see if another hook would fit if I DON'T want to mess with modifying the mold ?? I realize the hook wire diameter might be different but so many catalogs sell a similar looking jig with considerably larger hooks so there must be something close that would not require major modification.

Ray

The hook is 35 degrees.

Regular spooled stainless wire should work. Size #3, 0.012" cut into the correct length and bent at the end.