Aiden James Lures Posted March 1, 2011 Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 I have been working on replicating the holographic/pearlescent look of the zara spook bellies for our new bluebelly lizard topwater bait. If you look closely at the belly of the G-Finish Blue Shad, it looks like it has some depth and holographic effect. I have experimented with some multiple layer pearlescents and metalics, but I can't seem to get it right. There is a company named paint with pearl that has many different pearl and metalic powders to mix into a clear or base, and I was wondering what to try next. Any suggestions? I am a new member, and have searched the forums for this topic without any luck. Thanks in advance for your tips. John Aiden James Lures http://ajlures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtrs5kprs Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 I have been working on replicating the holographic/pearlescent look of the zara spook bellies for our new bluebelly lizard topwater bait. If you look closely at the belly of the G-Finish Blue Shad, it looks like it has some depth and holographic effect. I have experimented with some multiple layer pearlescents and metalics, but I can't seem to get it right. There is a company named paint with pearl that has many different pearl and metalic powders to mix into a clear or base, and I was wondering what to try next. Any suggestions? I am a new member, and have searched the forums for this topic without any luck. Thanks in advance for your tips. John Aiden James Lures http://ajlures.com Would try mixing some C-tex pearl white with Hi-lite/chameleon colors. Shoot that, then shoot light, thin, extended, and reduced coats of the straight hi-lite color (probably blue, in this case). Might want to clear coat it, then shoot the hi-lite as well. Should be pretty close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aiden James Lures Posted March 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 Would try mixing some C-tex pearl white with Hi-lite/chameleon colors. Shoot that, then shoot light, thin, extended, and reduced coats of the straight hi-lite color (probably blue, in this case). Might want to clear coat it, then shoot the hi-lite as well. Should be pretty close. Dave, Thanks for the tip. Do you have a link for that manufacturer? I googled 'C-tex' and couldn't find the company or store. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Moreau Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 Dave, Thanks for the tip. Do you have a link for that manufacturer? I googled 'C-tex' and couldn't find the company or store. John Createx = C-tex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtrs5kprs Posted March 3, 2011 Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 Yup. Fewer times I type Createx, the fewer times I spell Craftwex, Createwax, etc... Those colors should be awfully close. I am still hoarding the old chameleons (pre Auto Air), but think you will get your color with those, right down to that slightly superfine particulate look of the G-finish colors. Woun't be quite as reflective as the silver G-finish color, but you can make up for that with the color change effect, maybe some flake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aiden James Lures Posted March 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 Yup. Fewer times I type Createx, the fewer times I spell Craftwex, Createwax, etc... Those colors should be awfully close. I am still hoarding the old chameleons (pre Auto Air), but think you will get your color with those, right down to that slightly superfine particulate look of the G-finish colors. Woun't be quite as reflective as the silver G-finish color, but you can make up for that with the color change effect, maybe some flake. Do you shoot everything with your airbrush or do you use an HVLP? I ordered the paints today. Thanks, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtrs5kprs Posted March 3, 2011 Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 Do you shoot everything with your airbrush or do you use an HVLP? I ordered the paints today. Thanks, John Paasche VL, V, and Milenniums. Wicked old school guns. I go back and forth on whether the pearls and hi-lites shoot better thru a medium or heavy tip and needle assembly. They do seem to prefer a higher psi, around 40-50 for my set-up and preferences. Don't be afraid to thin and extend them. You are going for light, dry, highly pearlized coats that will give you almost edge free blends. Clear coats are flex coat high build by brush, but devcon will work. Never bothered with any of the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clemmy Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 I remember when G-Finish lures first came out, they advertised them as having "guanine" in the paint. Guanine is what gives fish scales that pearly iridescent look, and this was what was used for "pearl" back in olden days. i.e. powdered fish scale. The Guanine is the "G" in G-finish. But modern Mica based pearls have totally done away with guanine esscense as a painting medium as it give a much improved look. All of which leads me to believe that G-finish is actually retroreflective clearcoating, similar to what is used on highway signs, etc. But that is as far as my research has taken me, as It's a direction I decided not to take my baits. Lastly, I remember early G-finish lures were famous for paint loss... Clemmy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aiden James Lures Posted March 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 I remember when G-Finish lures first came out, they advertised them as having "guanine" in the paint. Guanine is what gives fish scales that pearly iridescent look, and this was what was used for "pearl" back in olden days. i.e. powdered fish scale. The Guanine is the "G" in G-finish. But modern Mica based pearls have totally done away with guanine esscense as a painting medium as it give a much improved look. All of which leads me to believe that G-finish is actually retroreflective clearcoating, similar to what is used on highway signs, etc. But that is as far as my research has taken me, as It's a direction I decided not to take my baits. Lastly, I remember early G-finish lures were famous for paint loss... Clemmy Good Stuff! It makes sense. I actually bought some mica based powder from paintwithpearl.com to mix into my base and clear. I will let you know how they turn out. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...