RayburnGuy Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 I know quite a few of you guys have a woodworking background and I'm hoping you can give me your opinions on a decent bench top band saw. Hoping to find one for around $100. Give or take $20 or $30. I know you get what you pay for, but all I'll be using it for will be cutting out lure bodies. I've read reviews on different saws until I'm more confused now than when I started. Would really appreciate some advice in picking one out. thanks guys, Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted March 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 Thanks Bob. I guess I should have been a little more realistic about the price. Although I was hoping to find something for $150 or less. As far as it lasting 20 years I don't figure I'll last that long so that's not a problem. lol Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 When you buy your saw, pick up a few spare blades too. There is nothing worse than a blade snapping half way through a session. Get to know the saw before starting work, they do not come ready to start. Read the instructions, open it up, remove the guard and adjust everything. There are 8 adjustments on a standard bandsaw, ignore them at your peril. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Central Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 (edited) I have an old version of Mastercraft 9 inch band saw. I'm guessing you're from the states and Canadian Tires do not exist down there but if they do wait until it goes on sale and you could get it for about 40-50% off. Either way I see the newer model has a laser guide and more importantly a bearing guide and a mitre gauge. http://www.canadiant...r.jsp?locale=en I do everything free hand but a bearing guide would be nice for ripping wood for through wire work or cutting a thicker board to proper lure thickness. Mitre gauge would probably be handy as well. As for the laser, might be useful but I've never used one, probably would help keep one from making mistakes after their 15th consecutive blank. Oh the little light on it is helpful, helps you see that pencil line which can be a bit hard to see on oak. The one problem with the small 9 inch ones is that the table is small so cutting off a small piece from a 8 ft board requires you to balance the other end with your arm. You might have to use a different method to do this if your band saw does not have enough clearance around it. I don't bolt mine down so I can rotate it easy and point the board out the door or into the shop if need be. The other option would be to look at scroll saws. The scroll saws can do cuts that are more intricate because the smaller blade creates less binding on tight corners. Personally, I prefer a band saws, the cutting is smoother since it does not reciprocate but you have to use relief cuts in or to prevent binding and a broken blade. Second, you have more features, besides relief cuts are rarely needed with blank making. Edited March 9, 2011 by Central Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 I forgot to add the reason why I mentioned the setup importance. I pretty much destroyed my bandsaw within a week, because I did not read first. The cork crown wheel disintigrated (managed to glue it back), broke several blades and the top wheel crashed into one of the side adjuster mounting bolts and sheared it. I managed to get it repaired under warranty even though I did not deserve it. The saw is cheap and nasty (Nesto), but it has served me well since. Cost about $100. As for unwieldy stock, Both bench and floor mounted saws are not going to help. I cut my stock to managable lengths with a hand held circular saw. You can cut gentle curves with the bandsaw. But if you cut too tight, you are stressing the blade by twisting, also forcing the blade to rub the side adjusters. The blade has a welded joint. This will constantly 'smack' the adjuster and will eventually fail. I cut roughly on the bandsaw and take to the line with sanding tools. This is getting away from the original thread subject, but it is good to learn from others mistakes. If I was buying again, I would up the quality, if I could find it locally. But The cheap saws will do the job, as long as you accept their limitations and don't overload. I am happy with mine and don't plan on replacing it soon. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted March 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 Thanks guys. Appreciate the help. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Glenn Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 Rayburn Guy, How many lures do you make? For yourself or sell? These decisions make a difference on how good a band saw you need. Remember a band saw does Rough work and sanding to the line, as stated, is always necessary. Having had students buy cheapo to extravagant band saws, the two most important things that gave them trouble was parts and replacement blades. Get a band saw that has a common size blade and a network for replacement parts. We once had a great sander in the shop, but parts had to come from China, no good. If you are just working on your own stuff, probably be hard to beat Sears for parts and blades availability. Sure didn't say they were the best. Read carefully the adjustments that control the side and back movements of the blade. Those adjustments make for an accurate cutting bandsaw. I'd spent the extra money on a drum type sanding attachment for the drill press or one of the air inflatable sanding drums that fit a turning lathe. Just my 2 cents worth. Musky Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted March 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 Bought a 9" Skill bench top model at Lowe's today for $119. Made sure I asked what kind of return policy they had just in case it was a pile of junk. I've got 30 days to see whether or not it will do the job. Just got finished adjusting the blade tension, blade stops and guides and made a couple passes with it and it seems OK. I'm just making baits for myself and a friend right now so there's not a lot of pressure on me to be turning out lures on a steady basis. And I'll only be cutting bass size lures out of basswood and balsa at this time so hopefully this little saw will be up to that. I'll let everyone know if it turns out to be an expensive paper weight. thanks for the advice everyone, Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluetickhound Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 (edited) Bought a 9" Skill bench top model at Lowe's today for $119. Made sure I asked what kind of return policy they had just in case it was a pile of junk. I've got 30 days to see whether or not it will do the job. Just got finished adjusting the blade tension, blade stops and guides and made a couple passes with it and it seems OK. I'm just making baits for myself and a friend right now so there's not a lot of pressure on me to be turning out lures on a steady basis. And I'll only be cutting bass size lures out of basswood and balsa at this time so hopefully this little saw will be up to that. I'll let everyone know if it turns out to be an expensive paper weight. thanks for the advice everyone, Ben Sorry for the bump but I gotta know... How'd the Skil work out for you? I'm now in the market myself and have it narrowed down to either a Rigid, Skil or Black & Decker... Leaning towards spending the extra $$$ for the B&D but I kinda like the Skil also. The Delta seems like another good saw for the money... Edited May 23, 2012 by bluetickhound Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted May 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 The Skil works OK. If your looking for a saw that you can set up once and forget it you need to look at some other models. I've had to work with tools that weren't of the highest quality before so it's not a big deal for me. I've learned to check that the table is square with the blade every so often as it can get a little out if it's bumped around. The re-saw fence doesn't set perfectly square with the blade so I made a little wedge to take care of that problem. The face of the miter gauge wasn't perfectly flat so I sanded that down until the work piece fit tight against it. It's little things like that where corners were cut to get the price of the saw down. I'm satisfied with the job it does as it's only used to cut out lure bodies. If I were going to try to make a business out of building lures (which I'm not) I would probably spend more and buy a higher quality saw, but it does what I need it to do. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluetickhound Posted May 26, 2012 Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 After further review I think I'm going to go with a Rikon 10-305. It's a 10" (as opposed to a 9") and seems to be really sturdy and well built. I don't think a 12" or 14" saw would be very practical for my limited space and frankly, it would seem like overkill for lure making. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted May 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 After further review I think I'm going to go with a Rikon 10-305. It's a 10" (as opposed to a 9") and seems to be really sturdy and well built. I don't think a 12" or 14" saw would be very practical for my limited space and frankly, it would seem like overkill for lure making. Whatever saw you decide to go with let us know how it works out. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluetickhound Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Got my Rikon this week and I LOVE it!!! It didn't take long to set up (there's actually a YouTube video on exactly how to do it) and it cuts like a dream. I doubt I'll ever use my scroll saw again. Amazing how being able to KNOW (as opposed to HOPE) your cuts are totally accurate will do for your confidence/enjoyment!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
