CatchemCaro Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 So I'm wondering what you guys think are the strongest and most durable clear coats out there and how do you apply them? Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 I just looked on the first page of the hardbaits forum. I counted 14 top coat or related threads. That is almost 50% of the posts are top coat related. Do you think we are obsessing? Dave 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 Yes I do, and I'm fixin to join FA (finishers anonymous). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.dsaavedra. Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 to answer your question... hardest most durable clear coat i know is Devcon 2 Ton epoxy. does this make it the best clear coat (this seems to be what we are obsessing about), the answer is no, not by any means Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 There are so many that you will want to try. You would probably be best starting with Devcon 2 ton 30 minute epoxy, as it is available on the high street in 1oz containers for a few dollars. Not the cheapest top coat, but being able to try it in a small amount is a big plus. You can then use http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/12510-trying-to-achieve-a-flawless-finish/ Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lure--Prof Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 Wouldn't a clearcoat have to also be the most scratch resistant to be the hardest? If so S8-1 Dicknite's is the hardest, and it's much more difficult to sand than Devcon. After it has fully cured, S8-2 seems to be just as hard, according to the lastest pickup truck-trolling data. past that, you could read info on that all day long, as Dave and Douglas suggested SEARCH! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikePaintsBaits Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 The Best Clear Coat On The Market Today Hands Down Is , What Ever Works Best For You.. As Well I Have A Mad Chemist Locked Away In My Basement. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackjack Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Since you are in the midst of commercial production of your baits, I would have assumed that you would have researched this prior to selling baits. I would suggest a clearcoat utilized in the automotive industry usually a 2 part urethane clear that can be sprayed. Or you can use the search feature here as there are probably 25 pages of information relating to clearcoats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rofish Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Or you can use the search feature here as there are probably 25 pages of information relating to clearcoats Maybe you mean 25 pages of thread titles relating to clearcoats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 The Best Clear Coat On The Market Today Hands Down Is , What Ever Works Best For You.. As Well I Have A Mad Chemist Locked Away In My Basement. Mike I don't have a basement so I've got my mad chemist chained to a tree out by the back porch. He's been slaving away at a formula for a new top coat for the last few weeks. We're having trouble with one of our suppliers though. Does anyone know of a reliable source for depleted uranium? We figured if it was good enough to build armor for battlefield tanks it should hold up just fine on a crankbait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 I think they also use depleted uranium for the bullets in the Prowler's big gun, so all you have to do is piss off the AF, survive a strafing run on your home, and dig out the spent bullets from what's left of you home when they leave. It's a plan, but, as plans go, I'd put that way down on my bucket list. Way down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatchemCaro Posted March 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Once again some great information. Thanks guys. I did do a "SEARCH " thank you, and I read through 20 of those threads and just thought that maybe I could find a little tid bit not found there. I'm working on a lipless bait and the clear coats I've used haven't worked all that good so I wanted to compair some results. I will try the 2 ton and see how it holds up. Thanks again for the good information. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Moreau Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Personally for a lipless bit I wouldnt choose 2ton... Reason being that the edge of the bait acts as the bill and you dont want that to be smooth and rounded like 2ton will do when it levels. I would choose somthing like DN1(S81?) where you can have a nice edge up top. I have no scientific evidence to back this just my thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 I agree with Matt about D2T and rattle type baits. Most rattle baits that I've seen have sharp corners on them somewhere and Devcon tends to pull away from those sharp corners and leave thin spots. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatchemCaro Posted March 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Good info, thanks again. I'll check that stuff out. I haven't added a lipless bait to my stable of baits for sale and when I do I need to know that they'll stand up to a beating some what. Thanks Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 Good info, thanks again. I'll check that stuff out. I haven't added a lipless bait to my stable of baits for sale and when I do I need to know that they'll stand up to a beating some what. Thanks Rich Concrete, very durable but it's not clear. pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 Concrete, very durable but it's not clear. pete And it's not very buoyant, although they do build boats out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjiwhite Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 Personally, I like E-tex, it does take a little bit of time(brushing on with a bristle brush and then putting on sometype of slow turning spinner for a few hours to allow for drying), I've tried lots of clearcoats and E-tex dries nice and clear (and stays clear) and is hard as a rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blazt* Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 So I'm wondering what you guys think are the strongest and most durable clear coats out there and how do you apply them? Rich I've only used D2t and Lure-Craft Poly-Sil. Poly-Sil absolutely blows D2T away. Super slick, rock hard, gnarly riprap is nothing, incredible gloss and depth. And you can buy in small bottles. It requires a catalyst. I assume it is a urethane. Problem: there is a $25 dollar hazmat fee to ship any quantity. I first used Poly-sil about a decade ago. I assume the formula hasn't changed. Hours of light exposure merely gave me a mild, spacey high. No paramedics were involved. Sprayed outside, no booth, medium house fan at my back. Through Iwata HP-C. Pot life is 4 hours. Spray, brush, or dip. They have a full line of colors, too, all of which are killer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seabassfisher Posted September 3, 2022 Report Share Posted September 3, 2022 On 3/14/2011 at 3:51 PM, Lure--Prof said: Wouldn't a clearcoat have to also be the most scratch resistant to be the hardest? If so S8-1 Dicknite's is the hardest, and it's much more difficult to sand than Devcon. After it has fully cured, S8-2 seems to be just as hard, according to the lastest pickup truck-trolling data. past that, you could read info on that all day long, as Dave and Douglas suggested SEARCH! Hi can dicknite’s be sprayed with an airbrush? What’s the compound in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RM3 Posted October 9, 2022 Report Share Posted October 9, 2022 Sprayed Tamco 9500 if any sort of volume is involved. Catalyzed automotive urethane, rock hard, non-yellowing, crystal clear and fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 Dick Nite s81 is a moisture cured urethane. I wouldn’t try to spray it ‘cause it will harden in the brush but it is very good for dipping if you have a large batch of lures to coat. For small batch, you should simply brush it on and hang it to cure. It does have storage limitations and any unused finish must be discarded, not poured back into the can. If you’re interested, do a search and read up on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 43 minutes ago, BobP said: Dick Nite s81 is a moisture cured urethane. I wouldn’t try to spray it ‘cause it will harden in the brush but it is very good for dipping if you have a large batch of lures to coat. For small batch, you should simply brush it on and hang it to cure. It does have storage limitations and any unused finish must be discarded, not poured back into the can. If you’re interested, do a search and read up on it. Search this site for "tap the can". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted October 15, 2022 Report Share Posted October 15, 2022 I have been using UV Clear Epoxy for a while now and appears to be pretty good. I have had a 2 inch "puck" on a piece of tape stuck to the side of the shed (in full sun and frost) and have been checking for colour change and brittleness for about 2 years, hasn't changed at all, still quite clear and still bends without cracking. What I like is you can paint it on, warm it up and rotate it (if you want), cure it for 15 sec with a UV light/torch and its all over--give it a bit of sunlight for the final cure---no more gunked up brushes, OR doing 6 at a time, and waiting 12 hours before you can touch it AND it makes my colours POP---(make sure you use an exhaust fan if indoors). I've been making lures (trying to) since 1979 and this stuff has given me a new lease on life, there's an extra day in every week-----It's a bit like getting a dishwasher or washing machine Just ask your wife. Pete 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Catignani Posted October 15, 2022 Report Share Posted October 15, 2022 9 hours ago, hazmail said: I have been using UV Clear Epoxy for a while now and appears to be pretty good. Is that a resin or a two part epoxy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
