Brent R Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 Sure could use your help on clear coating a segmented swim bait.....How, with what and so on......Thanks for your input.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yardape Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 Sure could use your help on clear coating a segmented swim bait.....How, with what and so on......Thanks for your input.... On segmented swimbaits I brush on at least 3 coats of the original DN. Dipping won't work (seals the joints) and the epoxies are too thick at the joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 Sure could use your help on clear coating a segmented swim bait.....How, with what and so on......Thanks for your input.... Fix it into a kinda frame in a stretched out condition(with rubber bands or coil springs) and brush on the clearcoat , ......if utilizing a slow curing product requiring a rotisserie , make sure that you could clamp that frame into the rotisserie , .........using fast curing topcoat just flip over the frame a few times to avoid dripping , ....you could utilize carpenters clamps or larger spring-loaded clamps as a mount for that frame to stand firmly on your workbench . Try not to apply any laquer into the joining hinge eyes , ...if such still happens , I utilize a "Dremel" with a 1,0 mm drill bit and a Stanley knife(carpet knife) to carefully scrape off the clearcoat remainders from the wire eyes after curing . good luck , diemai Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 When I used to make jointed swimbaits from wook, after I'd installed my hinge screw eyes and adjusted the spacing on my joints, I'd disassemble the lure. I would coat the joint faces with one coat of D2T before I reassembled the lures. After it set, I'd clean it up a little if needed, and redrill my hinge pin holes. I used to bring the Dt2 out onto the face of the sections about 1/4" to insure a good lap with the face epoxy. Then I'd reassemble the lure, put it on my turner, and coat the faces with Etex, three coats. Since I switched to PVC as a building material, I just dip the sections in urethane three times before assembly, and that's it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent R Posted March 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 The swim baits that i am referring to are store bought.....I am not building my own.....thanks for all the comments....and more advice would be welcomed....Thanks Brent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bass Man Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 The swim baits that i am referring to are store bought.....I am not building my own.....thanks for all the comments....and more advice would be welcomed....Thanks Brent I know a few guys that wrap rubber bands around the joints, before applying the clear . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Moreau Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 for the baits I repaint that I cannot or just dont want to take apart I use rubberbands. use the smallest diameter ones you can get away with and just wrap tight around the joints. then I spray with auto clear and it works fine. I cut the rubberbands off when i am done. Another way I used to do this is by putting a drop of super glue in the hinge and let it set up. wen done painting and what not I took a dremel with scrap wire and cleaned them out. then I would take a knife and clean the excess too. I havent done tis in awhile as its kinda a pain... plus u can only do this on a few hinge systems ones like on slammers. I just mainly use the rubber band method now if I dont break the lure down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
