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carolinamike

Lureworks Plastisol

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My first thought on this was it was good and the price even better. However it tends to be very humidity responsive. While i could cook it on low and have few bubbles issues the other day; today we have rain and high humidity and I might as well be pouring a warm beer. The smell is not terrible but alot stronger than M-f or L.C. Having to cook each batch twice and stir makes extra work plus with any bubbles i lose my clear bait pouring which i have been doing more of. I will be sticking with L.C. Its a bit more a bucket but the plus put lureworks to a far second or third. 5 gallons headed to e-bay cheap!

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My first thought on this was it was good and the price even better. However it tends to be very humidity responsive. While i could cook it on low and have few bubbles issues the other day; today we have rain and high humidity and I might as well be pouring a warm beer. The smell is not terrible but alot stronger than M-f or L.C. Having to cook each batch twice and stir makes extra work plus with any bubbles i lose my clear bait pouring which i have been doing more of. I will be sticking with L.C. Its a bit more a bucket but the plus put lureworks to a far second or third. 5 gallons headed to e-bay cheap!

what spike do you have..

ultra.. poura,, ?

soft ...med. hard . ?

Jeff

I mite take it ?

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Just and update last week i used the pourasol in soft, added salt and made sticks. everyone i threw i caught fish no problems or compalints at all.

Today i used pourasol medium to pour the garage door was open and a storm blew in. I did not have any problems again. i poured tubes and brush baits.

If this quality keeps up this will be my new plastic.

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I finally tried the Soft (Pourasol) and will say I was very pleasantly surprised. No microbubbles seen. Very soft and the baits are not sticky when cooled. Smoke was minimal for sure. I believe I will use the soft after a few more "on-the-water" tests.

Regarding the bubble issue in the "harder" compounds, I have not talked with anyone at Spike It but they definitely have to know about it as they get information from this forum from users or may even be logging on themselves. The microbubble issue will keep me from using the medium and hard compounds but the soft performed very well.

Jim

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Glad you liked the soft stuff Jim.....I have been using my 5 gals of soft and hard. I have used up my first 2.5 gal of hard last night. Again I have been mixing the hard with the soft at a ratio of 1 cup hard to 1/4 soft (thereabouts) for my saltwater swimbaits. I have stocked a few hundred at a local store.....I am pleased with the product....

As far as the soft goes, do you think it is too soft???? It seemed softer than LC 536 and with my bigger worms, I think it might tear easy..Your thoughts?

I have not tried it with sticks yet...I did see that someone used the soft for sticks with salt and no complaints...I have been using heat stab from LC when doing my clear saltwater stuff with glitter...The bubble do rise in time enough in my Lee pot not to end up in the pour....

the hard does have more of a bubble issue for sure....I dont know if anything has been done to help with the problem...

For the guys that pour from pans or pyrex the bubble issue will cause problems for them for sure... IMO...

Cliff

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Hey Cliff... I think the soft is REAL soft. Perfect IMO. I really only use it for drop shot worms and smaller baits so I don't have a concern however I do believe it might be a little to soft for a larger worm. That being said, I did some 7" worms for testing and the resulting baits are soft but still seem to be pretty resistant to tearing.

I dont do sticks so can't comment on that. Gave them up a LONG time ago!!!!

The micro bubble issue is stopping me from using the other strengths. Would be great if I could use the pot on those however most of my stuff is still customs so I rarely need 20 bags of one color. I feel sure the rapid heating is the culprit. I need to send a sample to Gary and see if his light bulb heating system bubbles the medium.

Thanks again for your feedback and info!!!!!!!

Jim

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I talked with Bruce at Lureworks the other day he said not one person has personally contacted him to discuss the problem with their plastisol. Yes he does monitor the website some but you have some people that have microbubbles and some people that don't. Then some people only have an issue when they use it only in the microwave, then some people are mixing it. So from just reading the forum, it seems to me that it would be hard for them to pinpoint a problem. Keep in mind guys, these folks are really new to the hand pour side of things, so it seems to me that communication is going to go a long ways in producing a hand pour user friendly product. I think some of you guys that have been posting about your problems should at least make a personal phone call to see if there's anything that can be done to help you out. It's hard to figure whether this one's widespread or it's just a person to person problem. I'm sure any feedback you'd be willing to give to be constructive in helping to produce a good product, these guys would be more than happy to hear it.

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Mike:

Problem is widespread if you use a microwave to heat the stuff.

Soft is not bad, medium is pretty bad for microbubbles and hard is extremely bad for microbubbles.

I have corresponded with many from across the county that have experienced the exact same issue.

I have yet to talk with anyone that does not have the microbubble issue if they are using the microwave......

Jim

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I have spoken with Bruce about the microbubble issue. I don't really have this issue since I use presto pots. The thing that cause's this to happen in the microwave is it is heating to quick. When this happens the light polymers in the mix to boil creating a gas and that caues the microbubbles. As averyone know's they cook from the inside out.

When I do use the microwave I set the power to 50% and stir about 30 seconds in each heating cycle. There are a few bubbles but the microwave I bought is like a nuclear power plant it's 1150 watt.

Edited by Red's Baits
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I have spoken with Bruce about the microbubble issue. I don't really have this issue since I use presto pots. The thing that cause's this to happen in the microwave is it is heating to quick. When this happens the light polymers in the mix to boil creating a gas and that caues the microbubbles. As averyone know's they cook from the inside out.

When I do use the microwave I set the power to 50% and stir about 30 seconds in each heating cycle. There are a few bubbles but the microwave I bought is like a nuclear power plant it's 1150 watt.

It just seems like to big of a hassle to continue to cook liker that, Instead of a 2 minute and pour, I would have almost 4-5 minutes in cooking, stirring, waiting, etc...

No other plastisols react this way. No others need to be stirred when still in the raw form or heated so slowly. In addition, stirring uncooked plastic is/can be a hazard as you don't want that uncooked stuff on your skin or to be discarded in the trash. It contains phalates which have been banned in children's cup, toys etc. Directly on your skin is direct absorption. Gotta be a lot worse than eating a plastic cup as you are getting a direct shot of the raw product. Clean-up is messy with uncooked plastic also. Just not anywhere ideal.

Anyway, seems this stuff is made for injection more so than hand pouring and not made with microwave users in mind. A friendlier product would sell better. The soft is tolerable but after that the hassle it to great for me as a user of the microwave.

Jim

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WRONG

Not so BBK try cooking a slice of bread in your microwave then tell me what is burnt first. Also if your watching your plastic when it is starting to charge if you stir it the center is thicker then the outer edges thats because it's getting hotter faster. I have been working in chemical plants making polymers and other chemicals for almost 30 years. Here is an easier idea for some that don't understand the bubbles due to heating to fast. Boil water in a pot the bubbles come from the bottom not the sides or the top. So when your heating the plastic to fast the lites in the polymers will flash/boil and cause the bubbles. Yes different companys have different formulas to make up there plastic so not every plastic is the same.

I only use the microwave for ether a very small order or working up a color during this time I am not in a hurry up and get it done, other then that it's in the presto pot for cooking and holding temp.

Night before I was playing with 2 cups of the med. injectasol with my microwave setting at 50% power out-put. No bubble issue from the start to finish. No I wasn't in a hurry to pour because I was playing with a new color and also trying a new proto mold.

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Not so BBK try cooking a slice of bread in your microwave then tell me what is burnt first. Also if your watching your plastic when it is starting to charge if you stir it the center is thicker then the outer edges thats because it's getting hotter faster. I have been working in chemical plants making polymers and other chemicals for almost 30 years. Here is an easier idea for some that don't understand the bubbles due to heating to fast. Boil water in a pot the bubbles come from the bottom not the sides or the top. So when your heating the plastic to fast the lites in the polymers will flash/boil and cause the bubbles. Yes different companys have different formulas to make up there plastic so not every plastic is the same.

I only use the microwave for ether a very small order or working up a color during this time I am not in a hurry up and get it done, other then that it's in the presto pot for cooking and holding temp.

Night before I was playing with 2 cups of the med. injectasol with my microwave setting at 50% power out-put. No bubble issue from the start to finish. No I wasn't in a hurry to pour because I was playing with a new color and also trying a new proto mold.

Mythbusters did a whole episode on it. A microwave cooks from the outside in, the bottom just heats faster because its thicker so it retains the energy longer making it heat faster.

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Mythbusters did a whole episode on it. A microwave cooks from the outside in, the bottom just heats faster because its thicker so it retains the energy longer making it heat faster.

Straight from WIKI

PrinciplesFor more details on this topic, see dielectric heating.A microwave oven works by passing non-ionizing microwave radiation, usually at a frequency of 2.45 gigahertz (GHz)—a wavelength of 122 millimetres (4.80 in)—through the food. Microwave radiation is between common radio and infrared frequencies. Water, fat, and other substances in the food absorb energy from the microwaves in a process called dielectric heating. Many molecules (such as those of water) are electric dipoles, meaning that they have a partial positive charge at one end and a partial negative charge at the other, and therefore rotate as they try to align themselves with the alternating electric field of the microwaves. This molecular movement represents heat which is then dispersed as the rotating molecules hit other molecules and put them into motion.

Microwave heating is more efficient on liquid water (than on frozen water, where the molecules are not free to rotate) and on fats and sugars (which have a smaller molecular dipole moment).[8] Microwave heating is sometimes explained as a resonance of water molecules, but this is incorrect: such resonance only occurs in water vapor at much higher frequencies, at about 20 GHz.[9] Moreover, large industrial/commercial microwave ovens operating at the common large industrial-oven microwave heating frequency of 915 MHz—wavelength 328 millimetres (12.9 in)—also heat water and food perfectly well.[10]

Microwave heating can cause localized thermal runaways in some materials with low thermal conductivity, where dielectric constant increases with temperature. Under certain conditions, glass can exhibit thermal runaway in a microwave to the point of melting.[citation needed]

A common misconception is that microwave ovens cook food "from the inside out," meaning from the center of the entire mass of food outwards. In reality, microwaves are absorbed in the outer layers of food in a manner somewhat similar to heat from other methods. The misconception arises because microwaves penetrate dry non-conductive substances at the surfaces of many common foods, and thus often induce initial heat more deeply than other methods. Depending on water content, the depth of initial heat deposition may be several centimetres or more with microwave ovens, in contrast to broiling (infrared) or convection heating, which deposit heat thinly at the food surface. Penetration depth of microwaves is dependent on food composition and the frequency, with lower microwave frequencies (longer wavelengths) penetrating further. Microwaves cook from the inside out only in the sense that each molecule is generating heat from "inside" and radiating it "outward".

Seems like you and Wikiapedia say the same thing no it don't/then yes it does Hmm.

I do watch mythbuster's as well, but the aren't correct on everything ether.

Chemicals react much different then food.

I didn't copy the hole articale and it also explains how the power settings work. There are only a few microwaves the truely reduce the wattage out put and runs the full time and not blast in cycles.

The bubbles are caused by the thermal runaway causing a micro explosion generating a gas bubbles due to the make up in the plastisol polymer chemistry.

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Regardless of how a microwave cooks, the manufacturer could develop a product that is conducive to use in the microwave if they wanted to. Many have already. This is how or why many products are adopted or not adopted in our marketplace. Ease of use. I do not know how many out there even hand pour or use a microwave but if the true hand pour market is a target, the product will have include and consider the ease of use in the microwave or little adoption will occur. Time is money in hand pouring for sure... Any delay, regardless of what it is from, is significant. Product cost will help market penetration initially however long term, ease of use will overcome this.

Just comes down to changing the formula a bit and going forward. Simple in-house testing is available to ensure it would work.

Just my opinion though. We will see.....

Jim

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But you said you can test it on a loaf of bread?

If you didnt know Wiki is made by people, you can edit it yourself.. not a reliable source for information.

Not on a loaf of bread but on 1 slice over the years I have done it. The bottom of the slice will be moist while the top side will dry out. When I would cook it alittle to long it would start to burn in the middle of the slice of bread. I have not done this in years since my kids are all grown up now and can do it on there own.

Jim, your point is good to. The product's on the market are all different. For this product speaking of the compound make up is different from others. Maybe thats why they are making injectisol, poursol, and ultrasol. I am not a spokesman for the company, but speaking with the company on the phone and through emails. People are not contacting them about the issues and are running straight to the forums with them. The first time I tried the product and spoke to the company the question first asked was did I use a microwave or a pot and how did I like it.

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