Brent R Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 How do you hold your stencils in place??? I thought of using painters tape but didn't know if it would pull the paint of the lure....As you can tell i'm brand new at this .Any help would be welcomed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekoutdoors.co Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 How do you hold your stencils in place??? I thought of using painters tape but didn't know if it would pull the paint of the lure....As you can tell i'm brand new at this .Any help would be welcomed. If I use them I just mark them really good with key features of the bait and hold them there with my hand and airbrush with my other hand. If its not to complicated this works for me. Otherwise if you are getting into really complicated ones you can search plastic mold form or something like that and learn how to make a mold to put around your lure and both hands will be free to move bait around and paint. I am getting away from using any stencils now and just doing the detailing freehand but this is what I used to do. Painters tape has taken paint right off my lures on me before. If you want to use that then stick it to your jeans a few times to get the tape less tacky and then you wont have to bad of a problem with that. Hope this helps. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Moreau Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 I do the same as Tim and hold the majority of my stencils. I make them from those flexible cutting boards u can buy (found at dollar store for packs of 2)... But if you want a stencil that is in the shape of the bait you can buy Heatshrink tubing and shrink it onto the bait, cut your stencil then cut in half and you will have a custom stencil that sits in place hands free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 (edited) One thing about stencils is that if you hold them tight to the bait you are going to get a hard edge. This is not always a bad thing. Some painters prefer hard edges in certain situations, but if you want a softer edge then try holding the stencils away from the bait just a little. This will allow a small amount of over spray around the edges of the cutout in your stencil and will soften the edge. Edited March 17, 2011 by RayburnGuy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Matt, Where can you get the size of heat shrink tubing that would fit around cranks ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Moreau Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Matt, Where can you get the size of heat shrink tubing that would fit around cranks ? I buy mine at Fry's Electronics but I imagine that tons of online sources have it. Just be sure not to apply too much heat and bubble/melt the crank that you are trying to mold.... not that I did this or anything!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanwood99 Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 I buy mine at Fry's Electronics but I imagine that tons of online sources have it. Just be sure not to apply too much heat and bubble/melt the crank that you are trying to mold.... not that I did this or anything!!! What size do you normally use? Do you shrink it around the entire bait or one side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Moreau Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 What size do you normally use? Do you shrink it around the entire bait or one side? The 1 inch diameter ones fit just around and RC 2.5. I put it around the whole bait and leave a little extra on the tail so when it heats up you can crimp it with needle nose and have a handle. Do a search on it and you will find the post that got me to try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 I went Jerry's route http://www.ustream.t...uwebcast/videos and made a vacuum former, a bit of setting up but worth the effort-- I use high impact plastic for the stencil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 I went Jerry's route http://www.ustream.t...uwebcast/videos and made a vacuum former, a bit of setting up but worth the effort-- I use high impact plastic for the stencil. Nice job Pete. Those look great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Moreau Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 Thats cheatin Pete!!! hehe Those do look very nice indeed. I have often wondered but neevr asked.... What type of action do they have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 Thats cheatin Pete!!! hehe Those do look very nice indeed. I have often wondered but neevr asked.... What type of action do they have? Matt- that one pictured, over wed beds goes to about 2-3' with a very subtle Rapala 'Original' action-- here are some more (2") that go to about 8' , all stencilled-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blazt* Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 I think what you use as a stencil is just as important as what you use to clamp it. Some materials are easier than others. You're probably giving all the basic materials around the house a hard glance right now. Paperboard is tedious because it's stiff and slick, paper a little less so but might be prone to bleeding through. I have some dollar store craft foam I'm going to try out tomorrow. It's thick enough so it shouldn't bleed. It's very flexible and conforms extremely well, and has a grippy texture. All of which are going make it easier to hold in place. I got enough to do 10 or so lures (guessing) for a dollar. I'll probably get some miniature chip clip - looking things (dollar tree) to clamp it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekoutdoors.co Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 I went Jerry's route http://www.ustream.t...uwebcast/videos and made a vacuum former, a bit of setting up but worth the effort-- I use high impact plastic for the stencil. Hey Hazmail where do you get that high impact plastic. I am using some milk jugs sometimes but they are kinda flimsy sometimes when I get done vacuum forming them. I would like to give that a try for some of mine. Thanks, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 Hey Hazmail where do you get that high impact plastic. I am using some milk jugs sometimes but they are kinda flimsy sometimes when I get done vacuum forming them. I would like to give that a try for some of mine. Thanks, Tim Tim- Here (in Austarlia) I go to the plastics guy and buy a 6' x 4' sheet 1.5 mm thick @ about $10 - not sure where you would get it in North Dakota. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 Tim- Here (in Austarlia) I go to the plastics guy and buy a 6' x 4' sheet 1.5 mm thick @ about $10 - not sure where you would get it in North Dakota. Pete 1.5mm is thicker than I had in my mind. Obviously it works, as those stensils are top notch. Are you using a serious vacuum for that? I was hoping to get away with the shop vacuum unit for the suction, so was planning on around 0.5 - 0.8mm thickness. Comments and opinions welcome. I found a plastics shop. They had just about everything imaginable in plastic, but the owned didn't know what PETG was. So back to the hunt for materials. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 1.5mm is thicker than I had in my mind. Obviously it works, as those stensils are top notch. Are you using a serious vacuum for that? I was hoping to get away with the shop vacuum unit for the suction, so was planning on around 0.5 - 0.8mm thickness. Comments and opinions welcome. I found a plastics shop. They had just about everything imaginable in plastic, but the owned didn't know what PETG was. So back to the hunt for materials. Dave Sorry Dave , I meant to add that the plastic sheet is 'high impact plastic' and because those stencils are whole of lure stencils (75% anyway) it needs to be thicker as when thin plastic is vacuumed it tends to go too thin on the corners. I just used a shop vac, nothing special - I got one from Aldi here for $45 but it blew up in no time, so I am now using the house vac at the moment. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 Sorry Dave , I meant to add that the plastic sheet is 'high impact plastic' and because those stencils are whole of lure stencils (75% anyway) it needs to be thicker as when thin plastic is vacuumed it tends to go too thin on the corners. I just used a shop vac, nothing special - I got one from Aldi here for $45 but it blew up in no time, so I am now using the house vac at the moment. Pete Thanks for the feedback Pete. Good to know, I will modify my plan some. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
