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mark poulson

Wchilton

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I just want to say thank you again for a great tip, and a great tool.

I wear a leather glove on my left hand to hold the bottom of the cup, and use my right hand to pinch the side to make a small pour nozzle, and to guide the plastic.

The silicone keeps the plastic hot so much longer, I I injected 10 flick shake worms and was able to hand pour 20 4" worms from the same batch, without reheating.

The best I could do before, with pyrex and metal pouring cups, was eight without reheating.

The difference is night and day.

You have made my plastic pouring so much easier and faster.

Hats off to you. :worship::worship::worship:

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Thanks, Mark,

Glad to share that one. For the small batches I tend to work with these have worked out real well for me too. I've been playing with a few different (microwave-safe) insulating materials added to the outside to both improve the heat-holding properties and to stiffen the sides up a bit. When/if I come up with something that I think is a real improvement I'll post that as well.

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I just want to say thank you again for a great tip, and a great tool.

I wear a leather glove on my left hand to hold the bottom of the cup, and use my right hand to pinch the side to make a small pour nozzle, and to guide the plastic.

Mark... Here's something I've been doing that's working pretty well. Instead of using my free hand to pinch a spout, I use one of those spring steel binder clips to make the spout. Only takes a second to clip it on to pour or off to re-heat.

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Mark... Here's something I've been doing that's working pretty well. Instead of using my free hand to pinch a spout, I use one of those spring steel binder clips to make the spout. Only takes a second to clip it on to pour or off to re-heat.

That's a great idea. I think it would allow better pouring control. I'll definately give it a try, and report back.

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