Weed Guards ?

[steve187]

I've been gluing my weedguards for bass jigs between 3/16 & 1 oz. as the last thing I do . The other day I repainted an old one and oven cured it. It already had a weedguard i n it so to protect it I scrounged up a small piece of copper tube and slid it over the guard and then put it in the oven. It seemed to protect it and it got me to wondering if this is the better way or not. How many of you guys put nthe weedguard in the mold when you pour and how many glue them in later and why? How do you protect them in the oven? I wire tie mine so they can be in the way a little bit.

[cadman]

Steve,

I have never had any luck with powder painting jigs with the weed guard in place. I've tried it once and I did'nt like the results. Maybe since I do mostly multi-color jigs there is too much heat , and the weedguards seem to start to curl and disfigure. Maybe I just didn't give it enough of a chance, so I can't honestly say. When I started powder painting they didn't have the little copper tubes that are now so readily available. With that said, I like my current process now, because I believe you get a better paint job without the weedguards. Also if you screw up several jigs with paint on it, you can dump it in paint stripper and not waste a weedguard. Another thing is, with the new nylon pins I use for painting, it is a breeze for me , because no more redrilling out the paint. Finally, I put on skirts after the weedguards are dry. It is a little inconvenient, but I have hand tied many skirts with thread, and it doesn't bother me any more. This is just my opinion.

[steve187]

Thanks Ted. As you know I also have a few of those nylon pins. I currently only use them when I pour the jig. Should I use them also in the fluid bed process ? Since I split the weedguard into approx. 15 strands it seems to fit in the basehole OK even if I do get some paint in the hole. Does the weedguard adhere better to the plain lead than to a painted hole as far as the glue holding power, or is there much noticeable difference? I was also thinking the weedguard might be a PITA for using the fluid bed. Thanks for the response. I may just continue gluing them in after the skirt is tied. I usually wire tie the skirt and then I use a trim piece of wire to wrap around the skirt to hold the skirt out of the way while I glue in the weedguard. I have never tried putting in the weedguard first and then tying the skirt. I just figured the weedguard would be in the way for putting on the skirt.

[atijigs]

I don't currently tie skirts. If I did I would probably glue in the guard after tying. I also use the nylon pins. I keep them in for the painting and cureing. I only leave 3-4 mm sticking out to grab onto. It makes the painting very easy. By leaving them in while curing you have a nice clean hole. I usually go with 3d eyes and like to place a dab of d2t over them. I place the weedgaurds at the same time. I am coating the eyes.

[powerworm]

while we are on making jigs(sorry to hijack i will apologize in advance) where are you getting these nylon pins and what adhesive are you using for the weedguards?

[cadman]

while we are on making jigs(sorry to hijack i will apologize in advance) where are you getting these nylon pins and what adhesive are you using for the weedguards?

I have the nylon pins. PM sent.

I use Loc-Tite Gel super glue currently.

Edited April 20, 2011 by cadman

[atijigs]

while we are on making jigs(sorry to hijack i will apologize in advance) where are you getting these nylon pins and what adhesive are you using for the weedguards?

I use D2t for the weedguards. I order the nylon from Mcmasters. (?). It comes in 4 ft. lengths. I cut it with a small bolt cutter. You can reuse them too. They can also be used to block the weedguard hole if you are not going to make a weedless jig.

[wnybassman]

What makes the use of nylon pins good for the painting process? The fact that paint doesn't stick to them, or something else?

[bass100]

If you guys don't mind me asking, What kind of nylon pins are you using and do they hold up to the heat well or is their lifespan short?

[cadman]

What makes the use of nylon pins good for the painting process? The fact that paint doesn't stick to them, or something else?

I bought my material from a rep in China which are pre-cut. I use them for pouring and painting every jig I have. In pouring the old style steel pins get stuck many times in the lead, because the lead shrinks as it cools. So many times in the past I had to use pliers to pull the steel pins out. Well after fighting this.................no more. The pins I have pull out really easy. The same process for painting. I put clean pins in the jigs after the jigs have been polished. Heat the jig over a heat gun, swish it through the paint, pull the pin out and hang on the rack . Once all done put the jigs in the oven to cure. Your weedguard holes will be as clean as a whistle. No more drilling out paint from weedguard holes. I pull the pins out right away, from my jigs because I have left them in when I first started this and if you let the jig cool and then take them out , the paint has a tenency to chip around the weedguard hole.

If you guys don't mind me asking, What kind of nylon pins are you using and do they hold up to the heat well or is their lifespan short?

Mine are heat proof to 700 degrees. You can not use them over an open flame. Only a heat gun.

[atijigs]

What makes the use of nylon pins good for the painting process? The fact that paint doesn't stick to them, or something else?

The paint does stick to them if cured in. As Cadman said the ease of removal is the key. I keep mine very short which also makes powder painting very easy. Really no different than a regular jig. I have not had a problem with the paint chipping. It maybe because of the short length. I will usually get paint tags when I pull them out. The longer nylon may keep the lead around the hole cooler causing the chips. One note here is when you are pouring with a short pin as the mold gets hot and you are using the pin as a blocker-(non weedless), you may need a dot of clay to keep the short pin from moving. The easiest fix is too use a longer pin.

[steve187]

Well my accidental curiosity has led to some good Q & A here. I think what I am going to implement next time is this : I will heat the jig with the hot air blower, insert the nylon pin, swish through the fluid bed, remove the pin, put in oven for cure. That may be the process for me. We'll see.

[cadman]

Well my accidental curiosity has led to some good Q & A here. I think what I am going to implement next time is this : I will heat the jig with the hot air blower, insert the nylon pin, swish through the fluid bed, remove the pin, put in oven for cure. That may be the process for me. We'll see.

Steve,

If you pour your jigs with the nylon pins, then what I would do is, once you start to paint your jigs. put clean pins in the weedguard holes before you heat the jigs. Then heat your jig and swish in the paint.

[steve187]

Steve,

If you pour your jigs with the nylon pins, then what I would do is, once you start to paint your jigs. put clean pins in the weedguard holes before you heat the jigs. Then heat your jig and swish in the paint.

Ted, thank you. When you say clean pins it raises my eyebrows. I haven't used mine enough to get dirty. LOL. Anyway I was also concerned about the preheating with the pins in. Does the pin absorb some of the heat and thus powder paint might have a tendency to adhere when you swish it through the fluid bed ? This is my reason for thinking to put in the pin after preheating and before swishing, just in an attempt to keep the pin clean.

[cadman]

Ted, thank you. When you say clean pins it raises my eyebrows. I haven't used mine enough to get dirty. LOL. Anyway I was also concerned about the preheating with the pins in. Does the pin absorb some of the heat and thus powder paint might have a tendency to adhere when you swish it through the fluid bed ? This is my reason for thinking to put in the pin after preheating and before swishing, just in an attempt to keep the pin clean.

Steve,

When I say dirty, I have about 50 pins I use only for pouring and 50 pins I only use for sticking in my jig weedguard holes. The reason I say dirty is because from all the pouring I do, and hadling lead being out in the garage, the pins get dusty and gray. So instead of bringing them into the house and using them I just leave them in the garage. Yes you can clean the pins from grime with naphta or alcohol, as they are chemical resistant, but to me it's a waste of time because they will get dirty again.

On the pins I use in the house when there is paint stuck on them, I just take the pins and bend them a little and the paint cracks off, pins are then good to go.

I assume you are pre-heating your jigs in an oven and then swishing them through the powder paint? That is fine my only concern is that by the time you stick a pin in a hot jig (if you can without burning your fingers), the jig will start cooling off and won't grip the paint. If the jigs are too hot, then you won't be able to stick the pins in them without burning your fingers.

Yes the pins do absorb heat and if you try to take them out with your fingers you will burn your fingers. I use hemostats to take them out of the jig.

As far as keeping your paint pins clean, don't sweat the details, all the pins will attract paint, and like I mentioned when the pins cool, you can just bend them and re-use them.

I hope this helps explain some things. If not let me know.

[bass100]

Thanks for the info guys. Anything that will speed up production or make what I already do easier is definatley worth looking into.

[steve187]

Another question or idea. Has anyone ever tried taking the bass jig straight from the pour mold with the pin in it , breaking off the sprue and then swishing it right through the powder in the fluid bed. Would the lead still be hot enough to do this properly. Seems like it might save preheating time.

[cadman]

Another question or idea. Has anyone ever tried taking the bass jig straight from the pour mold with the pin in it , breaking off the sprue and then swishing it right through the powder in the fluid bed. Would the lead still be hot enough to do this properly. Seems like it might save preheating time.

That is very counter productive as you will waste too much time and then making a mess. People have posted in the past on this and they found it to be very slow and ineffective.

[Madbasser]

Great read.

Lots of cool info here.

I might have to get some of those pins from u Cadman.

[powerworm]

if you wanted to take lets say a shakyjig mold with the screw loc and fill the cavity up where the screw loc goes and then machine it out so that a much smaller spring type screw loc would fit there what would you use to fill the cavity with that would still be machineable??? inquiring minds want to know!!1

[atijigs]

if you wanted to take lets say a shakyjig mold with the screw loc and fill the cavity up where the screw loc goes and then machine it out so that a much smaller spring type screw loc would fit there what would you use to fill the cavity with that would still be machineable??? inquiring minds want to know!!1

I think JB weld is supposed to be machinable. It would be very easy to just drop an insert in the mold the circumference and lenght of your new weed guard using the JB weld and not having to cut anything..

[cadman]

Great read.

Lots of cool info here.

I might have to get some of those pins from u Cadman.

Let me know when you're ready. They work great.

[cadman]

if you wanted to take lets say a shakyjig mold with the screw loc and fill the cavity up where the screw loc goes and then machine it out so that a much smaller spring type screw loc would fit there what would you use to fill the cavity with that would still be machineable??? inquiring minds want to know!!1

First of all depends on what mold you want to use. If you want to use a mold that has a weedguard hole in it, then you don't have to machine anything, just put the smaller screw lock in the mold and pour. If you want to use a Do-It mold that uses the big screw loc, then I would weld it and then machine it. I have tried JB Weld and it will not machine well, as it will crack once you try to machine it and the JB weld will pull out. This is just my opinion. Do as you will.