Melting Scrap Lead

[Loomis150]

I have a bunch of wheel weights and lead pipes that I plan to melt down for ingots to be used at a later date. That being said: The best way to melt these? I was thinking with a cold pot. I don't feel like having an explosion because of moisture or other variables that I didn't see before introducing them to the molten lead and hot pot. Thanks.

[Vodkaman]

Here is a link to a recent similar discussion that should help you: http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/22024-uk-noob/page__p__164573__hl__iron__fromsearch__1#entry164573

I agree that you should heat all the weights from cold, to avoid interference from the bomb squad. If you wanted to cook more, you could pre heat, but that is probably as much work as melting in the first pot, so I don't see the point. Might as well finish pouring, then let the pot cool and do another complete batch.

Welcome to TU.

Dave

[atijigs]

I have a bunch of wheel weights and lead pipes that I plan to melt down for ingots to be used at a later date. That being said: The best way to melt these? I was thinking with a cold pot. I don't feel like having an explosion because of moisture or other variables that I didn't see before introducing them to the molten lead and hot pot. Thanks.

Be sure to have all the essentials on hand. When you pour into the ingot mold that too will become extremely hot. You need a place to dump your ingot out too. You need a container for your dross or sludge you skim off the top. Flux stir, flux again. Give yourself plenty of room. You also need a way to dump your ingot mold. I use a vice grips. I prefer the cast iron ingot molds. Be prepared and there is nothing to it. I agree with pipe and wheel weights start from cold. Each time.

[mkvnmtr]

I you have wheel weights and pipe I would do them apart and mark the ingots. They are different to pour and you will want to know what you are using later on. I keep pots of wheel weights, pure lead, junk or unknown lead and high tin content. I use the type of metal that will work best for the project at hand. Also pull all the zinc wheel weights before you melt. They will ruin your pours. You will also find a lot of steel wheel weight that you could seperate before you melt.

[Loomis150]

Good deal guys, thanks. Just getting into this tackle making.

[Ogajiga]

This might be of interest.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/21500-wheel-weight-processing/

[mark poulson]

Face protection, heavy gloves, heavy long sleeve shirt and pants. No bare feet or sandals.

[nastysnax]

I make sinkers and I go through a ton of lead a week during the "season" here in Florida. I use separate pots for melting scrap and for making the final product. I use 4 of the 4-20 Lee lead melters for scrap. I also keep the lead separated as to soft and hard. I melt all the hard down first. Take out all the clips out and other crud that comes to the top. I add beeswax to get more of the crud out. Skim the top again and add another load of flux. Stir real good. Take off the crud again and pour the lead into molds. I use RCBS ingot molds for the hard lead and Lee ingot molds for soft. This way I can tell which is which.

This method I can pour about 400 pounds a day with minimal smell and hassle. I live in a condo area and these people are nosy old folks that have nothing to do. So I have to keep my efforts secret.

Once all the lead is melted and cleaned. I am ready to pour. I have two 4-20 that are the newest that I have. Once a melter gets too bad then it becomes a melter for the cleaning process.

I use heavy gloves, mask, long pants, SHORT sleeve shirt (yes I go get burn once in a while) steel toe boots for the cleaning process. Once I get the lead cleaned and ready to make sinkers, I wear walking shoes, shorts, no gloves, and a smaller mask. I do take a burn once in a while, but I hardly notice it anymore.