bassrecord Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 Has anybody used Marson Smoothie Fisheye Eliminator in the new Dick Nite S-82 WRTC or in any other topcoat? Marson's sales literature says besides fisheye elimination, it does a lot of wonderful things and it also increases gloss, which I am looking for since S-82 is semi-gloss. Thanks. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbkindle Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 Has anybody used Marson Smoothie Fisheye Eliminator in the new Dick Nite S-82 WRTC or in any other topcoat? Marson's sales literature says besides fisheye elimination, it does a lot of wonderful things and it also increases gloss, which I am looking for since S-82 is semi-gloss. Thanks. John I have not uses marson products, but any fish eye eliminator i have used sure did not add gloss mine where less glossy when i have this problem i try to find out where i got wax , or oil from. that gave me fisheyes. I like to do anything but use a fisheye eliminator KEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 I haven't used it either, but would think by using it you would just be adding an unnecessary step to the process. By making sure the lure is clean before you start painting you shouldn't have a problem with fish eyes. The first thing I do before each painting session is to thoroughly wash my hands in Dawn and hot water. This removes any oils that may be present. I've cleaned baits two different ways and each works well. I have washed the baits in hot water and Dawn using a toothbrush to make sure I got into any nooks and crannies such as around hook hangers. Then the bait is rinsed in hot water and scrubbed with the toothbrush while rinsing to make sure there is no soap left behind. The process I'm currently using is to give the bait a quick dip in clean acetone after sanding and right before painting. Notice the words "quick dip" and "clean acetone". The quick dip is just that. In and out and the clean acetone needs no explaining. You want to make sure you keep the lip of the bait out of the acetone as it will cloud it. Try these steps and I think you'll see there is really no need for the fish eye eliminator. just my Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orionn1 Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 Rayburnguy, what type of paints are you using? It doesn't come off when you wash it? I am new to airbrushing and topcoating. I have heard of heat setting, is that just heating with a heat gun? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 (edited) Rayburnguy, what type of paints are you using? It doesn't come off when you wash it? I am new to airbrushing and topcoating. I have heard of heat setting, is that just heating with a heat gun? thanks When I talked about washing the baits I was referring to plastic baits, or wood baits that had been sealed, and washing them before painting. Cleaning the baits prior to painting removes dirt and oils from the surface of the lure. If the bait is properly cleaned you shouldn't need a fish eye eliminator. Heat setting needs to be done with Createx paints. They are designed to be a t-shirt paint and have to be heat set to make them waterproof. The Createx application guide says the paint needs to be heated until the paint is warm to the touch. Visit the Createx website and take a look at their application guide. It tells you everything you need to know. Ben Edited June 30, 2011 by RayburnGuy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orionn1 Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 cool thanks ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
