psilvers Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 I am trying to add something to a Do-It mold and I need it to stay in place and not get pulled out when opening the mold after pouring. Does anyone know of any high temp adhesive that may be suitable? Thanks, Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Take a look at this stuff Pete. It's supposed to take temps up to 500 degrees. And it's machinable which might be a plus considering your using it on a mold. They also have several other adhesives if this isn't what your looking for. http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/ea_machinable.htm Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psilvers Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Thanks for the link. The 500 degree stuff won't work because it will be inside the mold cavity. The 700 degree stuff might work. I am also trying some stuff that is sold as fireplace cement. That is good up to 2000 degrees, but I wonder about the adhesive properties. I will see this evening and I will post any results. Thanks again. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psilvers Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Thanks for the link. The 500 degree stuff won't work because it will be inside the mold cavity. The 700 degree stuff might work. I am also trying some stuff that is sold as fireplace cement. That is good up to 2000 degrees, but I wonder about the adhesive properties. I will see this evening and I will post any results. Thanks again. Pete I just spoke with a guy at Cotronics ( the web site Rayburn guy suggested) and if the fireplace cement doesn't work - they have something that will! It is a bit pricey - minimum order is a pint for $84 or so. However, I am pretty sure that their stuff WILL work. Thanks to Rayburn guy again. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 What about JB weld. It has been used by many TU members as a filler in jig molds, but it is designed as a cold weld, so it should do the job. JB weld will work at a constant temperature of 500F. http://jbweld.net/faq.php Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psilvers Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 What about JB weld. It has been used by many TU members as a filler in jig molds, but it is designed as a cold weld, so it should do the job. JB weld will work at a constant temperature of 500F. http://jbweld.net/faq.php Dave But lead is at a temp of > 600. Will JB Weld hold up to having molten lead poured on it. I am pouring large jigs (2-6 oz) so the temp will probably be700 or so. With all that lead, the mold will get pretty hot. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 But lead is at a temp of > 600. Will JB Weld hold up to having molten lead poured on it. I am pouring large jigs (2-6 oz) so the temp will probably be700 or so. With all that lead, the mold will get pretty hot. Pete Sorry Pete. For some reason I had plastic temperatures in my head. DUH! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 But lead is at a temp of > 600. Will JB Weld hold up to having molten lead poured on it. I am pouring large jigs (2-6 oz) so the temp will probably be700 or so. With all that lead, the mold will get pretty hot. Pete Do a search on "Lab Metal" I use the "ready to use"(RTU) in Do-it molds and it works pretty good. this is from a company named Alvin Products. The down side of the RTU is, you have to buy the thinner and every time you use this stuff you need to pour some thinner in the can to keep it from getting hard. They also have another product for "High Temp" maybe 1000 F but I think it is a 2 part. I called the company and they were helpful on ways to use the product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkvnmtr Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 I use plain old Permatex high temp gasket maker in some of my molds. It seems to stay stuck for thousands of pours. I make molds out of fiberglass resin and they are usually 6 to 10 oz. I really do not think you need to get too high tech to do what you want. I would try our mexican plastic steel first since I am in Mexico. That seems to be the same as JBWeld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psilvers Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 I tried some of the Permatex stuff - but it came off with the jig when I opened the mold . I got something called "Hi-Temp Metal Repair" from Permatex. I will have to try it again - maybe I need to heat set it better,. Thanks, Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psilvers Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Just tried the fireplace cement - that did not work . I will try a high temp silicone that is good until 700 degrees. I figure if that doesn't work then JB Weld probably will not work and I will spring for the adhesive sold by Cotronics. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Pete - you have not shown us with a pic, what it is exactly that you are trying to do. My guess is that it is a trade secret and I can respect that. If not secret, a pic might help, you never know, there might be another solution. One thing that occurred to me, is that if the mold is hinged, the part that you are adding is not pulling straight out and might be catching, causing the adhesion to fail. Another possible problem is the draft angle of the part, this may need to be increased so that the lead cannot grip. The problem is that at the moment, the adhesion to the lead is greater than the adhesion to the mold. You may have to increase the mold adhesion, by adding some surface keying. This can be a simple ar roughing up the surface or drilling a few small diameter holes. Of course you may consider that this is not an option due to its invasive nature. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psilvers Posted May 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Vodkaman- Sorry. I didn't even think of adding a pic. I am at my lab now, so let me just explain briefly what I am trying to do - I am trying to glue a metal disc to the inside of the mold so that I make a recess in the jig for a 3D eye. You are right in that when the mold opens it creates force nd the adhesion to the jig is greater than the adhesion to the mold. The holes are a good idea. I also have another idea - drill a hole in the proper position and insert a carriage bolt. That can easily be sealed with one of the sealers and it will be very durable. In fact, I might try that option. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 I figured that it would be an eye recess. Try chamferring the edge of the metal disc say 20 - 30 degrees. This will give the lead nothing to hold on to. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atijigs Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Vodkaman- Sorry. I didn't even think of adding a pic. I am at my lab now, so let me just explain briefly what I am trying to do - I am trying to glue a metal disc to the inside of the mold so that I make a recess in the jig for a 3D eye. You are right in that when the mold opens it creates force nd the adhesion to the jig is greater than the adhesion to the mold. The holes are a good idea. I also have another idea - drill a hole in the proper position and insert a carriage bolt. That can easily be sealed with one of the sealers and it will be very durable. In fact, I might try that option. Pete You can pin your mold. My question would be how many are you pouring at a time? Are you looking to make hundreds or thousands? If the numbers are in the thousands you would want a mold machined for you. Anything less you can pop 3d eyes in very easily with a punch and a block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psilvers Posted May 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Thanks for the info. The chamfering is a good idea - but I also want to make sure that it is semi-permanent. Atijigs - no it is not a commercial operation, but the eyes are big and I kind of wanted to be able to pop it out of the mold. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atijigs Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Thanks for the info. The chamfering is a good idea - but I also want to make sure that it is semi-permanent. Atijigs - no it is not a commercial operation, but the eyes are big and I kind of wanted to be able to pop it out of the mold. Pete Your best bet then will be to place a rivet or a round head bolt in the mold. I tried a bunch of different materials. The one I thought would work the best-a round ice blade with jb weld worked a couple of times. I found it much easier to punch the eye slots in after the jigs are poured. It is an extra step but I can do it quickly and on all different style jig heads without altering the mold at all. I can go down to 1/32 oz. with little if any distortion to the head. The advantage to punching in the eyes is if you use any vinyl paints you can put the eyes in after. Powder paints need the eye recesses in before they are painted. Even cured the paint will chip or crumble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psilvers Posted May 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Thanks Atijigs. That is what I want to do. However, the jigs are big and I don't want to be punching the eyes. I am thinking of the round head carriage bolt. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgiaBlade Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Hey Pete: Pop-rivets is what I used to make recessed eye sockets for a round head mold. Just drilled the proper sized hole required for the rivet all the way through the mold, used a pop-rivet gun and presto, a permanent recessed eye socket that I don't have to worry about. Later GeorgiaBlade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 Pete, I'm not sure if this will help you but after you glue your disc to the mold maybe some mold release on it would help it come off without much pressure so that the disc stays in place. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psilvers Posted July 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 Thanks for the additional input. I have settled on using bolts and the results are fairly good. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
