Sbaits Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 I'm in the process of building three topwater lures I've never built before. Problem is that they have lots of moving parts, props, joints, and rotating bodies plus through wire construction. In order to seal them I kept each part separate and coated them with CA glue and since they are tuned on a lathe and have a hold going through the centre I poured CA glue through the hole and the holes where the hook hangers go (used swivels). Then to get a smooth canvas I coated them with Etex. Only problem I have is that the CA glue ended up plugging the hole where I left the hook hangers in. Second, I don't actually know if all of the internal surfaces are coated. Note CA glue takes longer to dry on a second coat (after the first soaks into the wood), with such a small space the internal parts take much longer to dry (it was open several minutes after I was done)! Next time I think I'll leave out the hook hangers, putting a wire through it periodically could work but it could also result in a stuck wire. Oh I have built topwaters with props before, this time I plan to paint then seal before I put the prop in place. Putting them in place first worked last time but I was real careful then had to use a knife to free up a spot. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 I use the CA glue for sealing the pin holes on my swimbaits. I like it because it soaks in so well and only adds a small surface growth. But after the first coat, the grain will raise, so after the first coat, I re-drill and coat again. Re-drilling may not required for your application, it largely depends on the clearance you have for your moving parts, my swimbait pins are a close, sliding fit. On the second coat, I use a brass rod as a spreader, to evenly distribute the glue. Yes, there is a danger of the glue grabbing the rod, if you linger or take too long. I have lost one lure segment to this and put it down to valuable experience, you have to find the limits at least once, to develope a good, safe procedure. The sticking problem occurs when you try to apply 'just enough' glue to do the job. If you apply too much glue, you get more safe time for the spreading operation and you have a better chance of not leaving any spots unsealed. I place mine in a box, heated with incandescent light bulbs. Ten minutes in the box and the glue is guaranteed cured, even if the glue pooled. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
