Jig Painting

[steve187]

Guys, I'm pretty new to this. I have been able to powder paint to my satisfaction. I know it will get better with practice. My method is to preheat each jig individually with a hot air blower, swish in the powder, and then in the oven to cure for about 25 minutes at 350degrees.

These jigs get one coat and I am doing better with the uniformity of the whole process.

What I am curious about is this. After this paint process do you guys also paint them again with a sealer or a clear coat of some sort? Do you use a powder to do this or spray something? Is it like a 2 part mix? I could use feedback on this as I need to determine if this is the next appropriate step in building a good jig or if this is overkill. The jigs I make are for bass fishing.

All feedback is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

[atijigs]

Guys, I'm pretty new to this. I have been able to powder paint to my satisfaction. I know it will get better with practice. My method is to preheat each jig individually with a hot air blower, swish in the powder, and then in the oven to cure for about 25 minutes at 350degrees.

These jigs get one coat and I am doing better with the uniformity of the whole process.

What I am curious about is this. After this paint process do you guys also paint them again with a sealer or a clear coat of some sort? Do you use a powder to do this or spray something? Is it like a 2 part mix? I could use feedback on this as I need to determine if this is the next appropriate step in building a good jig or if this is overkill. The jigs I make are for bass fishing.

All feedback is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

Usually you don't need to clear coat powder painted jigs unless you are adding 3d eyes. I like use D2T epoxy over them so they stay. I just use a dab over the eye itself. You should get a nice finish on the powder paint right out of the oven. I will coat spinnerbaits and some jigs when I have time in D2T just because I like the way it seems to enrich the finish. I use a lot of vinyl paints too. These must be clear coated because they react with plastics. More help will come soon this is just a start.

[cadman]

Steve,

No need to clear coat if you are using powder and doing it properly . Like atjigs said unless you are putting on eyes I then, also cover the eyes with D2T. Also if you coat the whole jigs with D2T it does make the jig look much better and more abrasion resistant to rocks.

[smalljaw]

Steve, you got good advise and I can add to it a little bit. While you don't have to use a top coat on powder it does make for a deep nice finish along with extra protection, you can use a 2 part epoxy like D2T or you can get clear powder. Pro Tec makes clear powder as well as clear with flake in it but I still like the finish I get using D2T, it just gives it a lot of depth and it looks really good when using multiple colors.

[Terry Anderson]

Steve, you got good advise and I can add to it a little bit. While you don't have to use a top coat on powder it does make for a deep nice finish along with extra protection, you can use a 2 part epoxy like D2T or you can get clear powder. Pro Tec makes clear powder as well as clear with flake in it but I still like the finish I get using D2T, it just gives it a lot of depth and it looks really good when using multiple colors.

This is what I do...but I will add 1 more thing to the 3D eye tip. I use medium viscosity super glue and a paperclip to apply a VERY small dot in the eye cavity to ensure it stays on during the D2T application. I have had some eyes slip on me.

[steve187]

Steve,

No need to clear coat if you are using powder and doing it properly . Like atjigs said unless you are putting on eyes I then, also cover the eyes with D2T. Also if you coat the whole jigs with D2T it does make the jig look much better and more abrasion resistant to rocks.

OK guys, thanks for the replies. I have been away for a while. Pretty much confirmed my thoughts on this matter. I have started using D2T for a wide array of minor home repairs since signing up to this board, thanks to you guys. I also have use D2T just a small bit with the weedguards. The stuff I get is quick acting and comes in 2 parts to be mixed equally. It is thick like cold molasses.

As far as coating the jig with it to enhance the finish, can someone explain how it's done? I mean do you apply it in the thick form with a brush? It seems like it would be too thick to get a nice even coating. I would like to try a little of this method for my own evaluation. I just need some pointers to get me started.

Thanks,

Steve

[smalljaw]

OK guys, thanks for the replies. I have been away for a while. Pretty much confirmed my thoughts on this matter. I have started using D2T for a wide array of minor home repairs since signing up to this board, thanks to you guys. I also have use D2T just a small bit with the weedguards. The stuff I get is quick acting and comes in 2 parts to be mixed equally. It is thick like cold molasses.

As far as coating the jig with it to enhance the finish, can someone explain how it's done? I mean do you apply it in the thick form with a brush? It seems like it would be too thick to get a nice even coating. I would like to try a little of this method for my own evaluation. I just need some pointers to get me started.

Thanks,

Steve

Steve, there are 2 kinds of D2T that I'm familar with and that is the 5 min and the 30 min, you need the 30 min and it still sets up quick but you should be able to coat 7 to 10 jigs before it gets unuseable. What I do is mix a small batch, a little bit bigger than the size of a dime, and then using a brush I apply over the eyes first (if the jig has eyes) and then the rest of the head being careful not to get it in the hook eye. All you need to do is make sure you covered the entire jig, you don't have to worry about brush marks as the stuff is almost self leveling, it is really pretty easy. Do a few jigs you can afford to mess up first and you will quickly get the hang of it. One last thing, I hang my jigs to dry by the hook, the same way I hang them to cure, if you don't use a heavy coat you shouldn't have a problem with running and if you do small batches you can go back and check to see if there are any runs and if so just go over it with the brush and back on your rack, once it fully dries you'll see the difference it makes, wait a minimum of 12 hours to dry, if the jigs I'm doing are for a customer I let them dry for 24 hours before I add skirts or whayever needs to be done. I hope this helps.

[steve187]

Steve, there are 2 kinds of D2T that I'm familar with and that is the 5 min and the 30 min, you need the 30 min and it still sets up quick but you should be able to coat 7 to 10 jigs before it gets unuseable. What I do is mix a small batch, a little bit bigger than the size of a dime, and then using a brush I apply over the eyes first (if the jig has eyes) and then the rest of the head being careful not to get it in the hook eye. All you need to do is make sure you covered the entire jig, you don't have to worry about brush marks as the stuff is almost self leveling, it is really pretty easy. Do a few jigs you can afford to mess up first and you will quickly get the hang of it. One last thing, I hang my jigs to dry by the hook, the same way I hang them to cure, if you don't use a heavy coat you shouldn't have a problem with running and if you do small batches you can go back and check to see if there are any runs and if so just go over it with the brush and back on your rack, once it fully dries you'll see the difference it makes, wait a minimum of 12 hours to dry, if the jigs I'm doing are for a customer I let them dry for 24 hours before I add skirts or whayever needs to be done. I hope this helps.

Yea I think it does help, thanks. I'll give it a try for a few and see how it goes.

[atijigs]

Yea I think it does help, thanks. I'll give it a try for a few and see how it goes.

Use the D2T 30 min. and use it sparingly. It will run. It flows out smooth but it is very easy to get to much on. I like to hang my jigs by the eye when ever possible. It takes the same amount of time but you never have a problem with drips and runs. It's easy to do. Use a thin wire- like a Christmas tree ornament hook. and slip a walking sinker over the hook. Cure and you can easily pinch off any runs. I shoot for no runs but I still get surprised from time to time. Especially with the epoxy. Apply as little as possible.

[cadman]

Steve,

Also to all of the excellent info above, When you put the D2T on, after you finish with 6 or 7 jigs ( whatever you get out of one small mixed batch of D2T) you can lightly go over the jig with a heat gun or a hair dryer. When I mean lightly, I really mean lightly otherwise you will distort the weedguard fibers and the D2T will start separating if too hot. What the heat does is soften the D2T and lets it flow better. I stand my jigs with head up, hook bend on the table. No matter which way you do it doesn't matter, it's all personal preferance. After I heat the jig with the D2T I stand it up and watch for any epoxy build up on the bottom of the jig. If I see too much I take the epoxy brush I use and brush it off. D2T is self leveling and covers very nicely. You will see a difference, between a powder painted jig and a powder painted jig with D2T...............Good Luck