Bassin'Mike Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 (edited) I just started pouring my own jigs, mostly ball heads for the time being. Anyway, I always seem to get atleast 1 incomplete pour everytime I load the mold. I have tried preheating the mold, not sure what else I can do to prevent it. This is a great site with a lot of great info!! Thanks Guys. *edit-- I suppose I can start by using spell check, lol Edited November 4, 2011 by Bassin'Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 (edited) Mike, First of all what mold do you have Model # would help? What size hooks and what brand? If these are round ball head jigs this shouldn't be a problem as they all are pretty easy to pour. I assume it's a Do-It mold. So some things to try. #1 Heat the hooks . I put my hooks on a black junk small skillet. and then I put a 100 watt lightbulb with a deflector over the hooks . The heat from the bulb and the black skillet will keep the hooks hot. I adjust the height of the bulb over the hooks to keep them hot enough so I can grab the hooks with my fingers and not get burned, then put them in the mold before I pour. #2. Buy yourself a can of Frankford Arsenal mold release. This is the cat's a$$ and it works. This is a start more info from others will follow. Edited November 4, 2011 by cadman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clint M Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 Is it the first pour usually? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 Not all molds are created equal. Some of mine never fail and others have some cavities that give me fits until they are good and hot. The weather also has an effect on me as I pour in an unheated garage. One of my molds has been a real pain. I have polished the cavities and cracked the mold and still have trouble some times. So I took Cadman's advice and bought some mold release. I haven't used it yet but this week is supposed to be rainy and cold so I plan to get the molds and can out and treat what needs it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psv Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 Jig Man May i ask what kind of lead do you use ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 (edited) Yes you may. I have lead from shower stalls from home remodels, lead from xray rooms from hospital remodels, lead radioactive medicine containers, printers lead and several pounds of wheel weights. I also have one block of lead which weighs about 100# that a guy gave me and did not tell me where it came from. I mostly use the softer ones but some fishing necessitates hard lead. Edited November 6, 2011 by Jig Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 (edited) Jig Man, What mold are you having problems with????? And yes you are correct in stating that weather has an important part in pouring. My best and most complete pours come in September through March with the cold months being the best. In summer that is when I run into some issue especially on hot humid days. Edited November 6, 2011 by cadman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 Ted my pouring is the opposite of yours. My bads occur in winter when the garage and molds are cold. My worst mold is a poison tail. It is the one that I have polished and cracked. I bought the mold release and plan to use it this week as I'll be house bound for a few days with the weather and all my farm chores done for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ute Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 Mold release has solved 99% of my trouble with problem molds. I have found that they need to be re-sprayed from time to time. It works best for me if I clean them with acetone before spraying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassin'Mike Posted November 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 I am using do-it-mold, and it doesn't seem to matter if it my first pour or 10th. I always seem to be getting atleast one that won't fill to the barb (collar). I am using Gami 4/0 hooks and pouring in 1/2oz size. The lead I am using is pretty clean, came from a construction job. I fluxed it with a candle. I am pouring with the Hot Pot 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cz75b Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 If you are using a soft (pure) lead then you would need to operate everything at a higher temperature. I've found that pure lead cools quicker during the pour and often gives you imcomplete castings if any factor is off (mold temp, alloy temp, hooks, etc.) Find some wheel weight metal and give a different alloy a try and see what works. As mentioned, a mold release will make things much easier, the coating seems to insulate the cavities and helps with the heat issue as well as acting as a lube of sorts to let the molten metal fill in the details before it freezes. Not to dredge up the issue regarding soft vs hard lead but the truth is alloyed (with tin and antimony) lead melts at lower temps and all around flows better than pure lead. This is often the issue with incomplete fills. Flux often, run everything as hot as you can and you will see better results. Forgot to mention a squeaky clean mold too....not a trace of anything oily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmayes Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 Mike, First of all what mold do you have Model # would help? What size hooks and what brand? If these are round ball head jigs this shouldn't be a problem as they all are pretty easy to pour. I assume it's a Do-It mold. So some things to try. #1 Heat the hooks . I put my hooks on a black junk small skillet. and then I put a 100 watt lightbulb with a deflector over the hooks . The heat from the bulb and the black skillet will keep the hooks hot. I adjust the height of the bulb over the hooks to keep them hot enough so I can grab the hooks with my fingers and not get burned, then put them in the mold before I pour. #2. Buy yourself a can of Frankford Arsenal mold release. This is the cat's a$$ and it works. This is a start more info from others will follow. Where can I get Frankford Arsenal Mold Release? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassin'Mike Posted November 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 try this link http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Frankford+Arsenal+mold+release Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 I got mine at Zeiners in Wichita KS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 I got mine at Zeiners in Wichita KS. I get my mold release from there as well. Also Zeiner's has better prices on most of their molds than any of their competitors. I buy most if not all of my molds there now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmayes Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Thanks fellers, I'll check into that link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldfart9999 Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 I had that problem with a Poison Tail mold and a custom worm weight mold today, I'm using a Lee #4 Production pot, all I did was turn the temp up and it poured very well. The problem I have now is the base pins are hard to pull out. Rodney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldfart9999 Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 I solved my sticky base pin problem, at least to a degree. I rub them on a parrafin block ocassionally and that seems to do the trick. I was told about nylon pins by Cadman and when I use up my supply of base pins I'll give them a try. Rodney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 I hear you on the base pins Rodney. They are a bit of a pain but I have several dozen and no more than I pour these days I will prolly stick with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 I solved my sticky base pin problem, at least to a degree. I rub them on a parrafin block ocassionally and that seems to do the trick. I was told about nylon pins by Cadman and when I use up my supply of base pins I'll give them a try. Rodney Rodney, I use the pins for pouring and painting. Once you use them you will never go back to using metal pins ever again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...