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Swim Jig Mold

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Can you buy the wire keeper and modify the mold or do you have to make the wire hook as well?

Right now Do-it has come out with a small ball head and a tear drop style mold with a wire keeper, I'm not sure how long the wire keeper is so you'd have to look at it and see if it is what you would want. The other part about modifing a mold, it would depend on the mold, the problem is the molds I'd use to make a swim jig all have collars and some have barbs so to make a slot for a keeper you would have to be really careful as you would make a really thin wall for were you want the keeper to be and it could turn out a mess. The grass jig mold by Do-it makes a fine swim jig and it takes 3D eyes, but it also has a good collar with a barb to hold plastic trailers so you really don't even need a wire keeper. I use the Snootie jig as a swim jig and that jig only has a ball collar and I don't have any problems with platis falling down.

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I use a poison tail as a swim jig and have no problems with plastics coming off either. Superglue gel will fix any slipping plastic problem you might encounter. I use it to hold grubs up to jig heads that only have the hook shank with on barb at all. It will keep them there until they are worn out.

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I have to agree with everone here. All the molds that have double collars or barbs do not need a wire keeper. Now on the ball collars, that is a different story. I have the Snootie jig as well, and I love that jig the most out of all the molds I have. I have never had problems with tying skirts on ball collared jigs, but if you want to tie on a skirt and then put on a trailer, well at that point , yes you will need to make some modifications to the mold. I have done this on the bullet bass jig mold. It is a round collared mold as well. I had the mold custom cut, and it works fine, but you have to be very precise on where to put the cuts on both halves, as there is not a lot of room for error, because the ball collar is not that big, and if you cut it wrong the trailer keeper will show on the jig shank and the ball collar. Also think of using something like .030 or .025 wire diameter. Don't go too thick because again you will have problems. You should use stainless steel of course and bends on both ends of the wire in opposite directions, so the wire doesn't pull out of the mold. I hand bend my wires and it's not really that big a deal especially if you are using thinner wire. Anyway good luck and let us know how it goes.

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I think I settled on the mold with the ring and barb I had an older fella that made jigs for me and they had the wire keeper on them. Recently his health has failed and I am having to go out on my own so yall will probally being hearing from me alot.

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I have to agree with everone here. All the molds that have double collars or barbs do not need a wire keeper. Now on the ball collars, that is a different story. I have the Snootie jig as well, and I love that jig the most out of all the molds I have. I have never had problems with tying skirts on ball collared jigs, but if you want to tie on a skirt and then put on a trailer, well at that point , yes you will need to make some modifications to the mold. I have done this on the bullet bass jig mold. It is a round collared mold as well. I had the mold custom cut, and it works fine, but you have to be very precise on where to put the cuts on both halves, as there is not a lot of room for error, because the ball collar is not that big, and if you cut it wrong the trailer keeper will show on the jig shank and the ball collar. Also think of using something like .030 or .025 wire diameter. Don't go too thick because again you will have problems. You should use stainless steel of course and bends on both ends of the wire in opposite directions, so the wire doesn't pull out of the mold. I hand bend my wires and it's not really that big a deal especially if you are using thinner wire. Anyway good luck and let us know how it goes.

I am looking for a bullet bass mold before i buy one new. I want to do the same with the trailer keeper

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I really use the wire keeper on alot of my baits. This deal works great on jig's and spinnerbaits as well. I use .027 stainless wire and bend about 1/8th inch on a 90 degree to hold into the head. after molding and painting then I round the wire with round nose pliers. To make the mold accept the wire I use a knife file and clear out small area where hook exits the ball collar. Just hit it a couple times on each side then try to fit wire into mold. Keep clearing till mold closes completely. Good luck

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