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softworm

? About Flooding P.o.p. Molds

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Thanks for the replys guys. I'm gonna give both methods a try. My local hardware store was out of Elmers wood glue and I used Dap. Not getting the same results as the Elmers, seems like its taking it longer to cure. I've not been letting the cavities completely dry before I flood a second time. This might be while its taking longer, but I never let the Elmers completely dry before I flooded a second and third time.

T-Billy your methood of baking the mold after flooding and draining, this donen't make the mold brittle? I baked one a little too long once and it cracked everywhere after a few pours. I usually bake mine a couple of hours or a little longer at 225 before I use the flooding methood. Just want to make sure the second baking dosent cause problems.

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The pop will get brittle if you get the temp too high. I've read on here that the threshold is around 225. I bake my pop molds at 175 with the door slightly cracked to let moisture out for several hours. 3-4hrs with no ill effects. Then I flood the cavity and coat the entire face of the mold with the Elmers wood glue mix and let soak for 15-20 minutes. Drain well and bake at 150 for a couple hours to cure the glue. Perfect finish with one coat every time with no durability issues. The other type of glue I tried was Titebond. It didn't work well at all. The finish had a rough texture.

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I use the white glue from the dollar store.....works just fine.

www.novalures.com

Maybe all white glues are the same. I don't know. That's definitely not the case with wood glues. I tried white glue when I first started. I always had to apply multiple coats to get a good seal. With the wood glue it's one and done. That's the case with me anyway. I can't speak for anyone else.

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