ROWINGADUBAY Posted February 3, 2012 Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 I made a master out of wood coated it with e-tex to make it nice a smooth made a mold box and did about a 60% bondo resin to 40% body filler mix (wich I think would have worked awesome) everything looked great when I poured the resin before work when I came home I had a little trouble demolding (ruined my master) but not to bad until I looked where the E-tex and bondo melted together and made all kinds of funky swirl and krinkley marks.I am thinking I should have used a water born poly or a water based clear for the master I am thinking if I coat the inside of my mold with devcon I might be able to save it any thoughts would be great George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted February 3, 2012 Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 My only suggestion would be if you have to use a solid material for the master then I would use rtv as a mold material if you make your master out of a soft material then mold material can be hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzyGrub Posted February 3, 2012 Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 I have only used resin and hardner for molds. No body filler. I used soft masters with "hard" mold. A very thin coat of vasoline help seperate on hard surfaces. The more "hardner" that is added the hotter the reation, and the heat is what causes allot of the issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted February 3, 2012 Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 All that work to be disapointed- although somewhat expensive CNC aluminum molds cannot be beat for 2-part precision , durability and the advantage to inject into thin appendage designs. They save time and $ in the long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
