sammy01007 Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 I purchased my first bandsaw the other day, after building a workbench for it and etting it up, I got a lot of vibration. Especially whenit is winding up, and winding down. I removed the blade and turned it on, no vibration. I checked the tires for high spots and couldn't find any. Put the blade bac on, and it vibrating again. Do I return it? What else should I check. The saw is a 9 inch benchtop Ryobi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-Mac Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 I have a 9" bandsaw too. From what I've gathered, these are just low end band saws and there isn't much you can do. Mine vibrates like crazy when turning it on and off. I'm not real knowledgeable on bandsaws, but my neighbor is (he was into manufacturing). Based on everything he's told me, it sounds like I need to fork out closer to $300 and up for a more solid and quality band saw. Of course, I've been cutting baits for 6 years with mine and it's still kickin. But I notice that I do get lip slot angle imperfections too on occasion, which ultimately ruins your lure. If you have the cash, I would suggest getting a better quality one... it's on my wish list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwfflipper Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 (edited) I have a 9" delta that is ten yrs old and still running true. I only paid 100.00 for it It could be a bearing not seated right behind the wheel and when there is pressure On it that's when it vibrates. That has been my experience even with saws over 1000.00 dollar Jeff Edited February 8, 2012 by jwfflipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Glenn Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 If the vibration goes away when the blade is removed, then it is caused by the blade or the non pulling wheel. It could be the blade (where it is welded together) is hitting the guide blocks and you notice it more at slow speeds but more likely is caused by some out of balance in the big wheel. But, if it goes away when it gets running at full speed, it is probably just normal for this bandsaw. How does it perform when you cut something? Musky Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammy01007 Posted February 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Thank everyone. It still has some vibration at full speed. I cut some basswood, and some 1/2 oak, and thin plastic. It cut through fine, but the vibrating is annoying as far as getting a smooth clean cut. Still better than cutting by hand, but I was hoping for something a bit smoother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowFISH Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 I have the 14" Delta and get a bit of vibration when it is first turned on and after I shut it down.... when at operating speed it's minimal... I don't think that is very uncommon is smaller saws. You can also try balancing the upper wheel.... goggle how to balance it, it's not hard and may help a little. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Mine is a low end tabletop saw too. I also have to get the blades made for it. Many of the blades are not welded true, so like Musky Glenn mentioned, any problem ant the joint will strike against the adjuster blocks. You can always see the problem if you unplug the power, open the cover and turn the blade manually, look closely at the adjuster area. Check the blade tension while you are there, pluck the blade opposite adjuster area, it should make a LOW musical tone. If the problem is at the adjuster blocks, it is best to slacken everything off and move everything away until the blade turns perfectly. First adjust the blade so that it is riding on the crown of the top and bottom wheels. Only then, move all the adjusters back to the recommended gaps. If it is a new blade, there may be a settling in period and you may find yourself doing this adjustment a few times at first. DON'T ignore or accept the vibration or the blade WILL snap. If this is your first bandsaw, the main thing to learn, is all the adjustments, There should be 8 altogether. Tension, blade alignment, 4 side blocks (two above and two below the table) and two bearing blocks behind the blade (one above and one below the table). It is easy to miss the bearing blocks as they are hidden. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 The two wheels need to be parallel, and stacked perfectly, one over the other. Take off the guards, and put a staight edge across both wheel faces, with the blade on and tensioned, to see if they line up. If they don't, adjust them until they do. If your machine doesn't have that adjustment capability, take it back where you bought it, and tell them to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
