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Brent R

Crankbait Rods

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DTL, I use two different rods, one for grass and one for trees. The grass rod is a 7' Hvy loomis crankin rod, for tree fishing it's a 7' Hvy Lami Glass. The Loomis can snap grass off the crank(DD22), while the lami is too parabolic for grass fishing, it shines for crankin trees w/enough flex to prevent tearing the hooks out of a fish that hits close to the boat in shallow water situations. Hope this helps!

FishingRaptor

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I have several rods for the purpose. But my favorite is a Kistler 7 ft. Magnesium MgCBCGGM70. It is a glass composite rod. They don't make them anymore and they are really hard to find (even on ebay). Most folks don't let go of them. For smaller baits like a DT10 and smaller I use a Kistler LTA He70MC. It is a graphite rod. But the action in this thing is unbelievable. You won't have fish pulling off with this rod.

Well.... I just went out to the Kistler site and they are bringing the rod back. (http://www.kistlerrods.com/p/fishing-rod/c-crankbait-fishing-rods/MICMGCBCGGM70.html)

The only difference is that they are using the micro guides.

Skeeter

Edited by Skeeter
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I use a rod built on a St Croix 7'6" MM graphite blank for deep cranks. For shallow cranks, I use a rod built on a Rogue MB664 6.5' graphite blank. Choosing a glass/composite rod versus graphite was a quandry. I never got used to the heavy, long glass cranking rods so reverted to medium action graphite. If you fish mostly graphite but are considering glass/composite, try to test fish some rods before you take the plunge. It's mostly about not losing hooked fish. A slower/softer action graphite rod solved that problem for me so I stuck with graphite.

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I use a rod built on a St Croix 7'6" MM graphite blank for deep cranks. For shallow cranks, I use a rod built on a Rogue MB664 6.5' graphite blank. Choosing a glass/composite rod versus graphite was a quandry. I never got used to the heavy, long glass cranking rods so reverted to medium action graphite. If you fish mostly graphite but are considering glass/composite, try to test fish some rods before you take the plunge. It's mostly about not losing hooked fish. A slower/softer action graphite rod solved that problem for me so I stuck with graphite.

I'm with Bob on this one. I want to know what my bait is doing and graphite, being much more sensitive, is much better at telling me that.

Ben

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I use team all star crankbait rods . I use 7'11" med action for deep crankin and can cast a mile . 7'2" med hvy for ripping a rattle trap out of the grass . I have 2 7' med action rods I use for shallow crankin and for square bills . These are graphite rods and are very light and sensitive . I am a poor boy and can't afford those high dollar rods these guys use .

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Using a loomis 6'6" M/MH for the shallow stuff and jerkbaits. Very sensitive and very lightweight, and does surprisingly well handling big fish,,,well what's considered big in missouri anyway. Also use a 7' MH/Hvy loomis crankbait rod for deep cranking. Both are moderate action. Both have been great rods, I've been using these since '98 or so.

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I use Falcon low rider med. action 7' cranking rods for small and medium cranks.

I use a Falcon Cara 7' med. deep cranker for DD22's and DT16's. It more like a med. heavy cranking rod.

I also use their 6'8" med. heavy low rider for big cranks. For some reason, it casts them like a bullet, and has a soft enough tip not to rip out the hooks.

I also like graphite because I can feel what the crank is doing well enough to "walk" it through trees and brush, as well as through the rocks.

I also use BPS Stacy King 7' med. lite cranking sticks for topwaters and flukes, and they work great. BPS has good, light rods at affordable prices.

Edited by mark poulson
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