bladesandbaits Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 Spinnerbaits! Im happy with what I am using but I have to ramp up production quite a bit. Not knocking Dick Nites but the cure time is just way too long. 30 minute Devcon is too much hassle trying to clear a 100 heads at a time The clear I spray for crankbaits works great but its a pain in the ass to spray all the baits Im producing. Is there anything i can dip that will not peel off ? I have a turning wheel that will hold a but load of heads. I'll go ahead and add that Etex wont make the cut. I'm guessing my options are pretty thin huh? Any input is appreciated. Regards, Blades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 Blades, I don't want to sound like a jerk, but you have eliminated everthing that anyone uses. All the products that you've mentioned have been proven to work and withstand the elements. Sometimes you can't improve on certain processes and you have to do what it takes. Clearcoating is a slow process unfortunately, and it is what it is. If you find something let us all know. I'm sure we would like to spend a lot less time clearcoating as well and have a superior product that will hold up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 I am a hobbyiest, not a seller, so take this for what it's worth. It works for me. You can dip in Target Coatings' exterior water borne urethane, EM9300. It is super strong. But it will dull the colors, especially if you dip mutliple times. it takes 2 hours between dips, but you can speed that up to 1 hour with a hair dryer after the dip has set for 15 minutes. Hit it with a hair dryer, let it hang again for 15 minutes, hit it again, and it will be ready to redip in an hour. But waiting 2 hours between dips will do the same thing. I'm just always in a hurry. It is ready to fish in two days. The EM9300 is so strong that if I put it directly over Createx paint, it will cause crackling, so I use a coat of the SC first, if I'm worried about that. For my crackle craw finishes, I use the EM first to enhance the crackle, and then the SC. I dip twice in their SC9000, which is super clear (SC), and then once in the EM9300, and that works for my salt water swim baits. For spinnerbaits, if I were using Createx, I probably would only dip once in the SC, to protect the paint film, and once in the EM. Here's a link: http://www.targetcoatings.com/shop/catalog/EMTECH_EM9300_Urethane_Top_Coat-8-1.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bladesandbaits Posted February 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 (edited) Blades, I don't want to sound like a jerk, but you have eliminated everthing that anyone uses. All the products that you've mentioned have been proven to work and withstand the elements. Sometimes you can't improve on certain processes and you have to do what it takes. Clearcoating is a slow process unfortunately, and it is what it is. If you find something let us all know. I'm sure we would like to spend a lot less time clearcoating as well and have a superior product that will hold up. You Don't sound like a Jerk at all Cad... I know it was kind of a redundant post but I thought I would throw it out there and see. Of the three.. there's no doubt that 30 minute is the toughest regarding cure time to blading,skirting and package. DN comes in almost a tie as far a durability but the cure times is killing me. Pot life is longer for working time. The clear I use on cranks comes in next but its a 2 coat process I get the most complaints from Etex.I guess what i will do is get way ahead of production and use DN. There was a post somewhere the other day about UV clear. I did a little testing a couple of years ago and found that it was very promising but I just didnt take it any further. The cure in the UV is almost instant but you just about have to handle each bait one at a time unless you build a giant curing box but the draw back there is by the time you hang enough baits in bulk to cure a bunch .. the clear would have ran and sagged and as soon as the light hit it --- the baits would cure with the runs and sags. Regards, Blades Edited February 25, 2012 by bladesandbaits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bladesandbaits Posted February 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 Thanks Mark. I looking at this right now. Regards, Blades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bladesandbaits Posted February 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 (edited) I am a hobbyiest, not a seller, so take this for what it's worth. It works for me. You can dip in Target Coatings' exterior water borne urethane, EM9300. It is super strong. But it will dull the colors, especially if you dip mutliple times. it takes 2 hours between dips, but you can speed that up to 1 hour with a hair dryer after the dip has set for 15 minutes. Hit it with a hair dryer, let it hang again for 15 minutes, hit it again, and it will be ready to redip in an hour. But waiting 2 hours between dips will do the same thing. I'm just always in a hurry. It is ready to fish in two days. The EM9300 is so strong that if I put it directly over Createx paint, it will cause crackling, so I use a coat of the SC first, if I'm worried about that. For my crackle craw finishes, I use the EM first to enhance the crackle, and then the SC. I dip twice in their SC9000, which is super clear (SC), and then once in the EM9300, and that works for my salt water swim baits. For spinnerbaits, if I were using Createx, I probably would only dip once in the SC, to protect the paint film, and once in the EM. Here's a link: http://www.targetcoa...p_Coat-8-1.html Mark. After reading about SC9300 I think I'm going to try a quart. I dont believe I will have a problem with Cracking or Dulling because all my painting is 100% Laquer. Waterborn clear shouldnt react to the paint I use but may not bond as well. regardless I will give it a shot and see. It will be three weeks before I can test it but will report back how it turned out. I assuming turning the baits will still be neccesary? Lastly... Even though these baits are being sold ,they are 100% custom and I want scrimp on the quality. Its the attitude of a hobyist and thinking out of the box that made them what they are. Im not looking to cut any corners. I'm just constantly looking for a way to improve the process. Sometimes you hit the cieling on the process. I think if I can get a little more efficient on clear coating,then I would be there. Components prices are getting higher everyday so times is money. Its definantly a double edged sword. Thanks Mark ..... Cad...... for the quick response. Regards, Blades Edited February 25, 2012 by bladesandbaits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldfart9999 Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 Blades, you don't powder coat? You don't need a clear coat unless you are putting 3D eyes on, then only around the eye. If you spray it would be very fast. I'm going to be buying a couple of guns from TJ's, I think that for me it will be easier to multi color. Rodney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 Blades, you don't powder coat? You don't need a clear coat unless you are putting 3D eyes on, then only around the eye. If you spray it would be very fast. I'm going to be buying a couple of guns from TJ's, I think that for me it will be easier to multi color. Rodney Rodney, Blades uses an airbrush and makes very detailed patterns, the paint he must use to do that chips easily so he needs a durable clear coat. Blades, I've tried different varnishes like Zar gloss and minwax products and they don't work as they don't dry clear enough for our use on things that are small scale. The thing I had hope in was the CSI Quick coat and while it was fast, it wasn't as super clear as Devcon and it was not even close in durability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldfart9999 Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 Rodney, Blades uses an airbrush and makes very detailed patterns, the paint he must use to do that chips easily so he needs a durable clear coat. Blades, I've tried different varnishes like Zar gloss and minwax products and they don't work as they don't dry clear enough for our use on things that are small scale. The thing I had hope in was the CSI Quick coat and while it was fast, it wasn't as super clear as Devcon and it was not even close in durability. Sorry, I didn't know that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bladesandbaits Posted February 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 Rodney, Blades uses an airbrush and makes very detailed patterns, the paint he must use to do that chips easily so he needs a durable clear coat. Blades, I've tried different varnishes like Zar gloss and minwax products and they don't work as they don't dry clear enough for our use on things that are small scale. The thing I had hope in was the CSI Quick coat and while it was fast, it wasn't as super clear as Devcon and it was not even close in durability. Sorry, I didn't know that. Thanks Rodney and SJ. For the record heres what I do. Base coat with white/pearl mixture and bake. All detail is Laquer over cured powder then eyes. The Laquer bonds very well over the cured powder. Regards, Blades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 (edited) What about dipping in the auto clear Blades? I have no idea if this will work or not, but thinking it might. If you dipped the bait, allowed the excess to drip off and then placed it on a lure turner it might work. It may not have the same quality as the process you use on your cranks, but then again it may work just fine. The major drawback is that it would waste some clear coat, depending on how many lures your coating, and this might make cost prohibitive. If your doing a lot of baits at a time it may not be anymore wasteful than spraying. Just trying to think out loud. If you come up with something let us know. Ben Edited February 25, 2012 by RayburnGuy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldfart9999 Posted February 26, 2012 Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 Thanks Rodney and SJ. For the record heres what I do. Base coat with white/pearl mixture and bake. All detail is Laquer over cured powder then eyes. The Laquer bonds very well over the cured powder. Regards, Blades. Are there pics here? I'd like to see them. Rodney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bladesandbaits Posted February 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 Are there pics here? I'd like to see them. Rodney Rodney. I think there are a couple of pictures in the Gallery of my spinnerbaits. Mostly cranks but I think there are a couple spinnerbaits there as well. They are not as detail as most I do. Regards, Blades What about dipping in the auto clear Blades? I have no idea if this will work or not, but thinking it might. If you dipped the bait, allowed the excess to drip off and then placed it on a lure turner it might work. It may not have the same quality as the process you use on your cranks, but then again it may work just fine. The major drawback is that it would waste some clear coat, depending on how many lures your coating, and this might make cost prohibitive. If your doing a lot of baits at a time it may not be anymore wasteful than spraying. Just trying to think out loud. If you come up with something let us know. Ben Ben. Gonna try my clear ( i'm an idiot, never thought about it) as well as the clear that Mark gave information on. Im really going to put an effort in to trying to streamline this process. I wont be able to try anything new until sometime in early April. I have to go back to europe for three weeks and will return a week before turkey season opens ...... lol Turkeys take a front seat for at least a week! Thanks guys for the great discussion... your'e the best! Regards, Blades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldfart9999 Posted February 26, 2012 Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 Blades, I found some of your pics, you don't have to worry about me picking up an airbrush and painting cranks.LOL Those are some very nice looking baits. I did order 2 guns for powder that I should be getting next week from TJ's. Rodney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basskat Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 I thought the Russians had kidnapped you! I played with the auto clearcoat and it didn't hold up well. It's been several years since I tried this so something may be on the market that's better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bladesandbaits Posted April 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 What about dipping in the auto clear Blades? I have no idea if this will work or not, but thinking it might. If you dipped the bait, allowed the excess to drip off and then placed it on a lure turner it might work. It may not have the same quality as the process you use on your cranks, but then again it may work just fine. The major drawback is that it would waste some clear coat, depending on how many lures your coating, and this might make cost prohibitive. If your doing a lot of baits at a time it may not be anymore wasteful than spraying. Just trying to think out loud. If you come up with something let us know. Ben Ok .. Im back from Europe and finished chasing Turkeys and heres what I have done so far. Ben.. Instead of dipping I brushed on the clear coat. I used PPG 2021 with med. Hardner. I mixed up 2 ounces and coated 100 spinnerbaits. I mixed the clear in a 2 ounce Badger Jar and figure the small opening at the top would slow down the clear in the Jar from getting thick. I slathered it on pretty thick and clipped each individual bait on the drying wheel. It took about 45 minutes to do 100 bodies and I had enough clear left over to coat probably another 25 baits. This is the way I will do it from now on. Why??? becuase if I were spraying them, it would have taken much more clear and I would have had to handle them all twice. brushing the clear on cut the time in half as well as the waist. I fished one of them in a tournamnet last week and between practice and the tournamnet, I bet i made 500 cast and 90% of that was very heavy cover. I cant believe it but the clearcoat held up twice as good as when it is sprayed on. Thanks again guys for the help and input to get my thought process going. Regards, Blades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bladesandbaits Posted April 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 I thought the Russians had kidnapped you! I played with the auto clearcoat and it didn't hold up well. It's been several years since I tried this so something may be on the market that's better. LOL Kat. Remind me to tell you about the close call I had in the Czech Republic !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Glad to hear your back safely from your trip and that you've found a solution to your clear coating process Blades. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
