General Questions On Lead Heads

[Crymdawg]

Question #1 - Even though I use a fluid bed to color jig heads I still get powder paint in the hole where the weed guard will go. Knowing how tough the material will be once it is cured but also how brittle the powderpaint is BEFORE curing; Would I be better off drilling the hole out Before or After curing ??? I've already cleaned the hook eyes.

Question #2 - When putting either the flat reflective eyes or the prisim like 3D eyes in my jig and spinner bait heads that have the recess area, What type of glue or other material can I use to secure them into place. I so far DO NOT use a epoxy after coat. I have tried Super glue but it discolors the plastic of the 3D lens. I also have used Fly tying Head Cement and Sally Hanson Clear nail polish.

Thanks

Ray in PA

[Crymdawg]

Sorry gang !!

Question #3 - If I take and alter a mold to use a jig or spinner bait head to facilitate the multiple wires that come out of an Umbrella type Rig, what product, if any, can I use if I want to slightly close the enlargened area for its original hook size. Modeling clay, RTV silicone with a hook in the area as a guide, plumbers putty or am I just going to have to sacrafice that mold hole??

[smalljaw]

Crymdawg, the answer to question 1 is BEFORE you cure it. I use the nylon base hole pins to keep paint out of the weedguard hole and I too use a fluid bed.

Question 2. I alway use a coat of D2T over my jig heads and spinnerbaits but a small drop of Loctite super glue gel works really well for keeping eyes on.

Question 3. If I was trying to restore a mold back and had to fill in hook cavities and such I would use JB Weld.

[Jig Man]

I take my pins out before I paint. I hold the hook with pliers over the eyelet so I get no paint in it. I keep the heads as cool as possible to get a very thin coat of paint. I turn the head upside down and tap it against the cup rim letting most of the paint fall out. After it is cured I take a drill bit and clean out the hole.

I sometimes use a coated cable for weedguard and hold it in place with duct tape. You might be able to do that when you go back to smaller hooks.

[Crymdawg]

I have also been using the nylon white pins fron Jann's but usually take them out when I powder paint.. Leaving them in would probably work but I've had ALOT of problems lately with my mold and think that the pins are TOO LONG and not allowing the mold to close all the way. So I'd have to clean out a lot of lead that slipped through the mold faces then replace the pins to powder paint.

Like I mentioned I have tried the Loctite Super glue (Gel type) but that causes the clear plastic on the 3D eyes to get discolored from the curing fumes of the glue.

[atijigs]

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Like I mentioned I have tried the Loctite Super glue (Gel type) but that causes the clear plastic on the 3D eyes to get discolored from the curing fumes of the glue.

Don't put the loctite over the eye. Place a dot of it in the recess and place the eye. Don't get any on the top of the eye itself.

[atijigs]

If you are getting flash because your mold won't close your pins are too long or too large. If your mold is closing then the pins are too thin for the weed guard recess. A dab of modeling clay will solve this problem. The pins really only have to be around 10mm long, 3mm projecting into the head and enough left to grab hold of to remove it. Trim the pins with a dremmel or a small bolt cutter. You should be able to tell if the mold is closed all the way. Just look at the seam when you close it. You can use clear nail polish over your eyes after they have been superglued. You won't get the durability of epoxy but it works ok.

Edited March 1, 2012 by atijigs

[EironBreaker]

When I use the Ultra Minnow spinnerbait mold with 3D eyes, after putting on the eyes I put a layer of seal-coat over it. Here's a link to the Do-It site to get some: http://do-itmolds.com/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=3_156_170 Seems to work good for me. Goes on real thin but locks the eyes in place. It will run if you put too much on but you can just dab the excess off. The best part is it is easy to work with and clear. You can also just wash out your brush with water and let it dry for next time. Good stuff.

[Crymdawg]

Hey atijigs, I think that my problem is the diameter of the pins. I'm going to use my Dremel and just remove a bit of the mold material where the pin/weedguard goes in my Do-It Weedless Football head mold. I'm using the correct size but even when I used fibre weed guards I still had lead slipping past. I've checked the face of the mold and there is nothing there so the pins have got to be a bit to large. I've also cut a bit off of the pins as well as beveled the point to fit into the 90 degree bend of the hooks.

Eiron Breaker, Thanks for the heads up on the Do-It clear seal-coat. I'll have to try some.

[sdsaw]

When I use the Ultra Minnow spinnerbait mold with 3D eyes, after putting on the eyes I put a layer of seal-coat over it. Here's a link to the Do-It site to get some: http://do-itmolds.co...&path=3_156_170 Seems to work good for me. Goes on real thin but locks the eyes in place. It will run if you put too much on but you can just dab the excess off. The best part is it is easy to work with and clear. You can also just wash out your brush with water and let it dry for next time. Good stuff.

X2 on the seal-coat

works for me too

I do one side and lay it on it's side to let it dry overnight, then do the other side allowing it to dry before handling

[EironBreaker]

Seal-coat dries fairly quickly. I have a rack that I hang the baits on after I brush it on to the entire head. I guess it even adds to the durability of the paint. A few hours and they are good to go. I've even put them in a warm oven to speed up the process but normally I just let them sit and cure while I go do something else.