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Painter1

Gargoyle Spinnerbait

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I have made a few of them and had others fish them as well as myself and it really didn't get more or less bites than normal spinnerbaits. The first reason I don't make or fish them anymore is they aren't magic and cost more to make, it takes more wire and uses 2 swivels and when you use a Quality ball bearing swivel it adds up. The other reason may seem to contradict what you probably read which claims the gargoyle comes through cover better. I've found that it doesn't no better or worse coming through limbs and over laydowns than a standard spinnerbait but in grass it is bad, plain and simple. Why it doesn't come through grass better is easy to see, it has too many grabbing points and the fact that the wire take an inward bend to hold a swivel for the bottom blade makes for less deflection as a standard bait has no break in the leading edge of the wire so it moves grass away from the bait much better than the gargoyle. Now if you want to make a spinnerbait better there are a ton of thing to do, even the gargoyle can be a good deal but I personally don't like it but maybe you will, so I apologize for being negative but I just thought is was a lot of work and more expense than what I was getting out if it. To be honest I probably didn't mess with it like I';ve done with other designs, like using a wider range of blade sizes and changing the spacing in between so those are things you could do if you want to try it.

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Thanks for that report. We don't have any grass in Tablerock, where I fish 99% of the time but if it makes sense that it is not the "next Alabama Rig". If it was, KVD would be using it. LOL

Still, if anyone has a few laying around, I would be happy to pay you for them and give it a try.

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I built something similar to the Gargoyle a long time ago. Instead of putting a bend in the wire to hold the extra swivel I used a piece of heat shrink tubing. Take a piece of tubing about 3/4" to 1" long and cut a small slit in it at the midpoint. The slit should be at 90 degrees to the length of the tubing and only cut halfway through. The tubing is then threaded onto the spinnerbait wire up to the slit. The split ring for the swivel is then placed into the slit and the back half of the tubing is then threaded onto the wire and pushed on up the wire locating the swivel where you want the blade to be. Then heat the tubing to shrink it tight to the wire.

At one time Sam Rayburn was full of hydrilla and this was done so the front blade wouldn't be spinning around the spinnerbait shaft and gathering up any grass it came in contact with. It worked fairly well, but this was only done to a few baits for myself and friends.

Ben

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I built something similar to the Gargoyle a long time ago. Instead of putting a bend in the wire to hold the extra swivel I used a piece of heat shrink tubing. Take a piece of tubing about 3/4" to 1" long and cut a small slit in it at the midpoint. The slit should be at 90 degrees to the length of the tubing and only cut halfway through. The tubing is then threaded onto the spinnerbait wire up to the slit. The split ring for the swivel is then placed into the slit and the back half of the tubing is then threaded onto the wire and pushed on up the wire locating the swivel where you want the blade to be. Then heat the tubing to shrink it tight to the wire.

At one time Sam Rayburn was full of hydrilla and this was done so the front blade wouldn't be spinning around the spinnerbait shaft and gathering up any grass it came in contact with. It worked fairly well, but this was only done to a few baits for myself and friends.

Ben

That's a clever idea!

I have never found a blade that I can fish well through thick grass. Fishing the grass edges and holes are one thing, but full on milfoil or hydrilla beds have me beat. It's either drop a worm with a rattle or a punch skirted plastic into the grass and shake it, or run a frog over the top.

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That's a clever idea!

I have never found a blade that I can fish well through thick grass. Fishing the grass edges and holes are one thing, but full on milfoil or hydrilla beds have me beat. It's either drop a worm with a rattle or a punch skirted plastic into the grass and shake it, or run a frog over the top.

Give it a try Mark. It's not 100% foolproof, but it works much better than the standard bait.

Ben

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That's a clever idea!

I have never found a blade that I can fish well through thick grass. Fishing the grass edges and holes are one thing, but full on milfoil or hydrilla beds have me beat. It's either drop a worm with a rattle or a punch skirted plastic into the grass and shake it, or run a frog over the top.

A lot of times here at Tablerock Lake we are working to do the opposite; Make a heavier bait with smaller blades to keep it running deeper with a smaller profile. War Eagle makes a 1/2 oz bait with the blades of a 1/4 oz and puts the extra weight along the hook shaft. That Gargoyle looks like it might work slower and really helicopter on the fall.

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Many moons ago there used to be a spinnerbait made with plastic coated 7 strand leader wire instead of SS wire, especially for fishing grass and weeds. The bait would collapse down when it started to hang up. You just had to bend the wire and use a clevis for the line tie eye, and a metal sleeve crimped on to the end to hold the swivel. Anybody else remember it?

Tony

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yup, that was called the Limberneck by Blue Fox if I remember right. They had a living rubber skirt as well. I grabbed a few from the Bass Pro outlet store when they were discontinued. I made a few myself a long time ago because I was fishing in a grass lake up north. They don't fish any better or worse around wood that we have here so I didn't make any more of them. I think I used a buzzbait rivet for a crimp but I'm sure a cable crimp would be the right thing to use. That was what I had at the time and I was/am cheap! Neat idea though.

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Guys if I find my copy of the gargoyle spinnerbait I got, I will post a 1: 1 or e-mail a 1: 1 sample of the wire bending form to make these. Just give me a few days to locate it. I will get you a sketch of it so all of you can make these till your hearts content. There is a lot of bending required, so I would suggest you take my sketch when I get it done, and tape it on a board, and then nail in nails at the radii (bending points), so you can make this pattern. One final thing if you look at Rayburn Guys pic, the small blade with the spacers must be put in before the final bends are finished, otherwise guess what? You won't be able to put them in afterwards, as the 90 degree bends will not let you do this.

Drawing for pattern tracing to follow.

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