CncDude Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 I have to admit I have new respect for some of the beautiful hp pieces I have seen out there after trying to match their quality. What tricks am I missing? I have some LC 3.5 SB RTV molds with VERY narrow slots between the body and the paddle tail. I have tried to pour in one place and let it flow (doesn't work), pouring the the tail and narrow slot first (results in flash around the top), or slowly working it back and forth (mixture of doesn't work and/or flash around the top). I read something about folks using a heated butter knife to scrape the flash off while it is still hot but don't know about that one. I have seen these same molds produce high quality slightly round back baits without the sunken back caused by under filling. So I have to assume it is something I am doing wrong. I am pouring from pryex and using the microwave which seems to be compounding the problem of keeping it heated. I have two Prestos which I will be installing the valves on tomorrow...maybe that will help (don't know how it is going to help with the really tight slot area in this mold). Anybody make any suggestions or offer any tips/tricks ? Thanks! Roy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 Hey Roy the answer to your question really involves practice, practice, practice a couple of things to look at, not all Pyrex cups are created equal check to see that you have a narrow spout and try to pour only half of the capacity of the cup i.e. if 2 cup then only work with 1 cup of plastic, running your plastic as hot as possible and try to pour higher up above the mold it tends to give you a narrow stream. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CncDude Posted March 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 I have 2 cup & a 1 cup. I am also working with 4 oz of plastic.... So it sounds like I & ok to that point. I do find the top part of the 2 cup cools pretty fast. And the microwave shuffle ( reheat, pour, reheat, etc) is a pain. I follow exactly what you are saying about stream width & pour height....thanks for the tip. How do you pour these very narrow openings without the flash around the top? There must be something I am missing. Thanks for the help!!! Going to go make more ugly swimbaits this morning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stick'em Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 Try to keep the plastic just under the top of the cavity. This won't happen all the time, but you"ll get better and better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSC Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 Your timing (and Hand), temp of plastic as stated (Hot) ..to pour then to round off .. bring it back with an even lighter stream. Pouring from the Presto and moving the mold .. to me .. is a lot easier. Like was said earlier Practice .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UNO Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 I have the same problem. I got a small butane torch and it is great for some little touch ups after I pour to much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassMadness Posted March 11, 2012 Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 I believe I have the same mold that you are refering to. My best results have come after letting the plastic set up a little bit and pouring again over the top. This takes longer but I have been happier with the results. The backs of the swims come out flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bass-Boys Posted March 11, 2012 Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 some times you can open up the narrow parts on the mold just a touch with a razor blade or scissors. becareful not to cut a notch in the mold, just a slight trim off the edge with a straight cut not jagged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CncDude Posted March 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I am going to try all of the above and see how it goes. Much appreciated! Roy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 Nor Pro silicone cups keep the plastic hot longer. And hot plastic (350 degrees+-) pours better than cooler plastic (330 degrees). Get a digital thermometer so you can check the plastic temps and avoid scorching it by overheating. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CncDude Posted March 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 Nor Pro silicone cups keep the plastic hot longer. And hot plastic (350 degrees+-) pours better than cooler plastic (330 degrees). Get a digital thermometer so you can check the plastic temps and avoid scorching it by overheating. Have infrared thermometer and just ordered the Norpor cups which make sense....Thanks! I assume I can set them on a griddle as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 I've never used them on a griddle. I've always used a microwave to heat my plastics. If you heat the plastic with a griddle, you might try to heat the plastic in pyrex first, and then transfer it to the silicone cups once it's hot. I've never done it, but it should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CncDude Posted March 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 I've never used them on a griddle. I've always used a microwave to heat my plastics. If you heat the plastic with a griddle, you might try to heat the plastic in pyrex first, and then transfer it to the silicone cups once it's hot. I've never done it, but it should work. Normally I would heat in the mw first and then use the griddle to try to hold heat by setting the pyrex on the griddle between pours. The pyrex seems to stay heated on the bottom but the top cools off fast....even on the griddle. I am hoping the silicone will be less likely to cool in that situation...but don't know. I have my presto pots drilled/tapped and will be working on a pouring stand this week. that should help with the 2 cup+ size runs but until I get the colors formulated the way I want, I am still working in 4 oz batches. Thanks for the suggestion! Roy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basscandy92040 Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 Lee pots for me...fine stream of plastic....I can post pics if you want... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CncDude Posted March 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 Lee pots for me...fine stream of plastic....I can post pics if you want... I appreciate the offer but I have already made the investment in a couple of Presto pots and put valves in them. Hopefully I will get similar results to your Lee pots. I use a Lee for lead and it is an excellent tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kajan Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 Well Presto pots are definatly the easiest way to pour into one pc molds in my opinion. All I use. But you need to put a hard bottom on your rtv molds. I believe I am the first one to start that a few years ago, I put alum bottoms on RTV molds and it allows it to slide under the nozzel easily. You can find some pics of my pouring station on Soft plastics. But once you start using the presto, I would highly recomend a stir system. Makes life easier bou'cou'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 All I did was make a sled out of an old plastic cutting board and attached a couple pieces of wood to it as a fence works great and doesn't require modifying all my molds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kajan Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 All I did was make a sled out of an old plastic cutting board and attached a couple pieces of wood to it as a fence works great and doesn't require modifying all my molds. I agree anything dat slides sure makes it easy to pour from pot. Just alum seems to allow molds to cool quicker I find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallie Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 All I did was make a sled out of an old plastic cutting board and attached a couple pieces of wood to it as a fence works great and doesn't require modifying all my molds. That is a great idea! Looks like the wife is getting a new cutting board tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
