tbrinlee Posted September 4, 2012 Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 Single cavity should be around 3-4 would be my guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toadfrog Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 I use talc powder for making two part molds .Powder the master before you set the first half then let it set until slightly firm to touch . Powder the entire half using a fluffy makeup brush . Blow off any excess Pour the other half . Speeds things up a little and both sides are cured together more or less . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAWJigs Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 I keep meaning to contact Paximus about making me some molds. He does good work from what it seems! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paxamus Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 How many single cavity molds could you expect to get out of the 2.75lb Quart Kit? It will depend not only on the weight, but also the shape. Footballs take the most silicone, while others less. I have gotten around six to seven two part single pour molds per quart, but it will vary. If you decide to try it shoot me an email or a pm and I will give you any help I can. Paxamus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAWJigs Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 I would love to give it a try, but more worried cause last time i tried doing silicon, I used the stuff that Larry dude endorses. Mold turned out great but its like it wouldn't settle the lead. the lead would crumble lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrinlee Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 The crumbly lead may have been the result of the lead being too hot and you trying to de-mould too soon. At least that was my experience. I went to a thicker wall (bigger heat sink) and allowed the lead to rest a bit longer as well as dropping the lead temp on the pot and that seemed to fix it. The silicone really holds the heat in a long time. You should also allow the mold to rest between shots to bring the mold temp back down so it doesn't ruin the mold. I will also say that I was poring 3 and 6 oz squid jigs so I use about an inch all the way around the jig. Hope something in the rampbling message above helps. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAWJigs Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 That might have been my problem. The wall was too thin and it didn't have enough to take the heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbor Posted December 19, 2012 Report Share Posted December 19, 2012 I made my silicone molds with contenti white high temp heat vulcanized spincasting silicone, I believe its stable to 900F. very durable even with pressing against the pot nozzle. it comes in 1/4" thick sheets you normally put your master on 2 sheets then brush on mica powder add acorn nuts for allignment then add the next 2 sheets and bake in the oven. The requirement is a heavy duty mold frame, like a jewelry mold frame with aluminum plates on both sides and 5/16 bolts surrounding holes to clamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cz75b Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 Step to note in making the second halk of the two part mold.....spray the first half and model jig with a release agent so the mold halves will separate and consider using ball bearings as keys the help align the mold halves for each pour. Put the bearing in your first half and take then out when you make the second half.....scatter them around the outside of the subject out of the way..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beasty Posted March 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 (edited) I made my silicone molds with contenti white high temp heat vulcanized spincasting silicone, I believe its stable to 900F. very durable even with pressing against the pot nozzle. it comes in 1/4" thick sheets you normally put your master on 2 sheets then brush on mica powder add acorn nuts for allignment then add the next 2 sheets and bake in the oven. The requirement is a heavy duty mold frame, like a jewelry mold frame with aluminum plates on both sides and 5/16 bolts surrounding holes to clamp. I have see these sheets on the net, could you give a little more detail on how these work, do you put the jig your're trying to duplacate between the sheets and then bake in a oven? I'm completely lost on how these sheets worl. Edited March 16, 2013 by beasty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbor Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Ya beasty! You put down 1/2 the mold sheets into a preheated frame then your lure/sprue former/gate former; then dust with mica powder add you other 1/2 of the sheets, close the frame and bake until you cookies are done, lol. If you have sheets touching each other without mice they will bond to each other when baked. I ran across this old frame i made way back when i was first starting, my passion is micro ice jigs. It was for use with scraps and only 1/4" deep per side. I would mace it completely different now. Id want the sprue to be made of silicone and not alum, i feel it make the mold sink no heat and pour full pours easily. Id open the cavity up to the top with a spligtly mold and have the sprue former attached to a third plate that was the top. Here are the pics to give you guys bade ideas. I made all my 3 original frames on a drill press with a XY table. ill post some pics of the last few sheets i have left next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbor Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Oh also forgot, there are some tricks of the trade. You take a thin slice of silicone and cover the hook shank before you powder. It bonds yo one 1/2 of the mold and when the mold is cured you slice it with a razor and it becomes a snap in hook holder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beasty Posted March 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 (edited) delete Edited March 17, 2013 by beasty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beasty Posted March 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Thanks, I think I understand your prosses a little better. how hot do you have to have the oven to bake it? I wish there was a video on it for us dummies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbor Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 (edited) it not that hard. the silicone is very forgiving. iv made molds with , without preheating, even over curing and never had any problems other than a lil shrinkage. They say its only 1-2% but its a lil more than that. http://www.contenti.com/resources/instructions/179-XXXinst.pdf its not that its hard its that information on mold making is not at all consumer related. pics will help. bug me in a week if i forget. go_rob_go@yahoo.com. i have made smaller molds than the one above and i just shim the mold with paper besacue of shrinkage if im using the mold frame for pouring also. My big molds i do not, the complete pourable mold is all silicone. If you guys want to chip in and buy me some more silicone il make you videos, lol. Edited March 18, 2013 by robbor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
