StrykerLures Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Hello TU friends, I had a few questions about my 79' Tidecraft. I just bought a 1979 Tidecraft bass boat. The guy I bought it from told me it had some electrical problem that they couldn't figure out. Here's some of the items they said didn't work, Here's what he told me - "Most electrical components in boat don't work (Lights, Inverter, Fish Tank Aeroator, fuel guage)" The motor, Fishfinder bilge pump still work, Possibly the trolling motor. I need a manual on the wiring (if anyone knows where to get the manual from) and any tips and advice about wiring it. I'll try and add a few pictures of the boat to give all of you an idea. Any help would be appriciated. Go here if you want some pictures of the boat, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320868454976&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#v4-38 Thanks a lot everyone. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeryrob Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 (edited) The boat is over 30 years old. Look at that switch panel by the steering wheel and figure on corrosion being your problem. Look at any connections what so ever. Spade slide on terminals, wire to wire splices. Use 220 grit and scuff the copper on spade terminal connections and replace and crimp the spades. It's been around water and some things work and some do not. Corrosion creates resistance and eventual enough to just block all electrical flow, or at least enough for the devices to operate. Try redoing all connections and then try trouble shooting it. Do you have a meter and know how to use one? Most likely the previous owner did not and did not know how to use one either. A cheap Multi-Meter http://www.radioshac...oductId=4214667 Set it to Ohms which looks like the Greek Omega and read the circuits and switches and stuff. Lights and the motor on the Bilge should read 10 to 30 ohms or something like that. If it read K Ohms for Kilo (thousand) or M Ohms Mega (Million) you have an open connection. You trouble shoot on Volts Dc with the battery connected or Ohms with the battery off. If you try reading Ohms with the battery on the meter will read bad and hopefully not get damaged. Remember it might be open because of corrosion, or because something is not plugged it on switches on. Like the trolling does not show resistance until you press the foot switch or turn the handle to make it run. I have had connection on spade terminals corrode in 3 to 4 years as the boat was under a tarp nut still in the humidity of the open air all the time. Edited April 2, 2012 by archeryrob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeryrob Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 The make crimp butt splices like this below. Some come with dielectric grease in them and others you can squirt it in before connecting, but the second method is rather messy! have lots of paper towels as half will be on your hands, not in the connector. The dielectric grease filling will keep it from corroding in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Glenn Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Those are all good answers, but sometimes it is easier on old equiptment to go straight to the component with a battery and bypass any switches and wiring to see if the Light or aeroator is actually good. Just my $.02 worth. Musky Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
