Griffond Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 So I have a bunch of scrap dowels laying around from pine to oak and maybe even a couple of aspen ones(popal) I've made some small sunfish poppers out of the little ones but I have some nice chunks of 1 1/2" and larger to 2" that I was thinking about making into musky baits I've used them a few times to try and come up with some stuff along time ago and have pretty much been modifiing them to get them to work correctly... heck I even made a lure out of a broken hickory broom handle just for the fun of it... hard stuff to shape thou... any thoughts on the woods... or easy shapes I dont have alot of tools to work with but I'm just shooting for basic jerk baits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riley Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 taper both ends for a jackpot stlye topwater or taper one end and cut the other at a 45 degree angle for a burt stlye dive and rise jerkbait, here some links http://www.muskyshop.com/modules/cart/products.php/page/32/id/903/name/PoesGiantJackpot http://www.muskyshop.com/modules/cart/products.php/keys/burt/page/1/id/684/name/DrifterManiaBurt9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassguy Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 You could use some of them to make the big woodchopper types. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffond Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 Riley I like the Jackpot idea that looks like something I could do with hand tools...since I don't have a lathe... Got a link for the woodchopper type your talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 Riley I like the Jackpot idea that looks like something I could do with hand tools...since I don't have a lathe... Got a link for the woodchopper type your talking about? It works quite well to shape round dowels into spindle-shaped lure bodies either just with a carving knife knife and sandpaper or a disc/belt sander and sandpaper , ........off course it takes considerably longer and also a certain amount of elbow grease , ..........but when working accurately it would be hard to differ such blanks from lathe-turned ones , .................I started out this way as well about 20 years ago . The latter is shown in here , as from 3:02 it is shown how to do the tail taper on a sander and with final hand sanding : The carving method goes as follows : -mark center of dowel end , draw a circle around center to resemble the about dia. at dowel end , ........draw a line around the circumferrence of the dowel somwhere away from the end where you wish the transition of the tail or also nose taper to begin . -take your knife and start carving a blunt taper at the marked end , ......make sure to possibly take away equally sized chips , after every knife stroke turn the workpiece a littlle further around in your holding hand , take good care about equal material removal all around the circumferrence . You should carve this blunt taper almost down to your circle marking at the dowels end center , just leave some "flesh" for sanding . -now lead your knife a bit downward away from the dowe'ls end and carve away material at the transition of your blunt taper to the original dowel diameter , again make sure to take off equally sized chips all around the circumferrence , .....always remember to turn ,...... turn , ..... turn your workpiece , ....DO NOT carve on one spotor level alone ! -this way your blunt taper becomes a little more rounded , .....when done with that level on the dowel , still go further down the dowel to carve off material equally along the circumferrence , .........always lead your knife at about the same level around the circumferrence , always take away about equally sized chips . -you'd procced this way , until you're satisfied with the shape and grade of your taper , ........do not carve right down to the transition line around the circumferrence , but leave some flesh for sanding again . -with sanding it's the same again , .....after every pass you'd turn the workpiece a little further , ......constant turning and equal material removal is the key to an equally spindle-shaped lure blank having centered tapers on it's ends . EXECEPTION : If you should have found a spot that became too thick or out of center , you must sand this one back to level naturally , .....this should be the only occassion that one needs to remove material at only one spot or level of the taper ! To determine whether the taper is running centered to the outer diameter of the dowel just roll it over your workbench and eyeball down the taper from it's end , you'll see quite well , whether you need to rework on certain spots . You can furnish blanks with a taper on one or on two ends this way , BUT , .......you must leave a reasonably large dowel portion untouched between the two ends , as this must be your reference for sufficient centering of the tapers(if making a taper on either end , first finish one side COMPLETELY before starting with the other) . Naturally , for topwater lures you want to use only the lightest timbers you can get , possibly still lighter than pine , ......sinking gliders can be made out of less buoyant stuff . Hope , that you could figure out about my humble explanations , .........good luck , 61diemai BTW , ......google for "Woodchopper Lure" to access pictures , .......guess , that they are no longer made . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffond Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 Wow as usual diemai good video I think I watched that one on youtube a little while back just forgot about it... at 3:02 in your video what did you use to make those cuts with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 Wow as usual diemai good video I think I watched that one on youtube a little while back just forgot about it... at 3:02 in your video what did you use to make those cuts with? Sorry , mate , ...maybe it's not quite clear to figure out , ....this is also done on the sanding disc shown at 3.07 , ........first two paralell aligned curved planes , after sand to a square alignement and finally to an octagon , ...afterwards start to round off , .....either with a "Dremel" coarse sanding drum or coarse sandpaper , ......remember that constant turning and equal material removal is the key thing to remain centered with the taper . The first grinding on the sanding disc takes a little "twist of the wrist" , as the single planes are not straight but somewhat curved , ........practise would occur whilst working ! good luck , diemai Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassguy Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 Riley I like the Jackpot idea that looks like something I could do with hand tools...since I don't have a lathe... Got a link for the woodchopper type your talking about? This should lead you to the Wood chopper. It's a Luhr Jensen product and are used for peacock bass. Click on the woodchopper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffond Posted April 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 I wonder if I can cut those angles with a table saw... and then round the edges Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 I wonder if I can cut those angles with a table saw... and then round the edges ..............you would need some kind of a rectangular cornered jig to clamp the round dowel into , ........cracked my brains about it many years ago , but to me personally this freehanded grinding is the best and easiest solution , .......don't have a bandsaw , anyway . Maybe make yourself something roughly similar like this : http://www.klo-und-so.de/images/product_images/popup_images/rasoschs45rs-1.jpg But instead of a ring of sheet metal you would do two semi-squared blocks of wood connected with a bolt and nut on either side , both countersunk for plain edges and with an approbiate bore in center to accommodate your dowel diameter . This way you could clamp your dowel letting the end to be tapered sufficiently protruding , so you could access it with the sawblade to do four cuts everyone 90° offset to the previous one . To do a octagonal taper , you would have to turn the workpiece around for 45° after having cut 4 planes . Or , a bit more simple , ...take carpenter clamps and such an angled jig : http://www.schneidladen.de/media/Sony$20Schneidlade$202$20003.jpg Clamp your dowel into one corner , let the end to be tapered protrude an cut two opposing planes , .........you'd have to loosen the clamp now and turn around the workpiece for 90° , fix again and cut the other two planes , ..........for an octagon switch arounf for 45° again . But one would have to take care about the clamps won't squeeze and indent the dowels at unwanted locations , .......probably use some kind of protection pads , .......last option would be woodfiller , ......anyway . Disadvantage of both jigs would be , that you would hardly be able to see the sawblade , as the jigs would stand in the way , maybe one's gotta look from the side ? OK , mate , ...this just theory , .....my weird ideas on a short term , .......up to you whether you wanna try it out ! greetz , diemai Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffond Posted April 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 I was asking a friend of mine that does some machining to see if we could come up with a way to make a coning bit of some sort kind like an over grown pencil sharpener... thats actually what I used to put end on dowels I used to make sunfish poppers with the kids... worked great... they painted them and I just added the eyes and the hooks after dipping them about three times in clear coat ;-) just need to find something a little bigger to make those noses on those jerk baits... good news is another neighbor just gave me some more dowels... these are oak 1 1/2 inch good musky wood lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 @ Griffond .............great idea , ...would never have thought of such , .........good luck , ...greetz , Dieter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
