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Modifying A Do-it Shaky Head Mold

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I have recently purchased a do it mold # SRH-6M-SLA ,round head shaky jig mold. I am trying to figure out a way to modify the mold to have the flat stand up head to keep from snipping and grinding each head to achieve this.Does anyone have any tips or tricks for this and if not I would love to hear from someone else who may have already been doing this as to what you are using to trim the jig head and such,I done a test pour to have a few heads to experiment with and used side snip pliers to cut the flat spot but doing this leaves a ridge across the middle that still needs to be ground.I just dont see a way to modify the mold for this and need some advice.Thanks

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Thanks guys, I did think about using jb weld because I have used it before to modify molds but in this case it wont work because filling in where the flat spot should be would block the fill hole.I just went to harbor freight and picked up the 3" mini bench grinder with a fine grit wheel so maybe it will do the trick.I will let you know how it turns out.

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I see a lot of this and I don't know why anyone would want the flat side. I'm not trying to make an arguement or get you mad but I just saw that Cumberland Pro Lures just discontinued making their flat sided shaky head in favor of the round head, you can ask them if they would be willing to sell you the mold. The reason they discontinued it is the same reason I never got into the spot remover jigs, because they don't stant up, on the bottom of a fish tank with loose gravel and a tight line, sure but on a slack line in a lake they do not stand up, in fact a round head if used with a floating style worm will stand up better than one with a flat. Now, if you still want the flat side it is actually easy to do. First thing is pour the sizes you want and make a normal shaky head, the next thing is sand or file the head until you get the desired flat spot. Once you get what you are looking for give the entire head a coat of car wax and let dry and wipe off, then insert it back into the mold. You will see the gap that is now created because of the flat area on the head, what you want to do next is mix up some JB Weld and fill that void, you need to do both sides so when one side is done you simply use the same jig, this will make the cavity symetrical instead of making 2 jigs as the flat spot you created isn't going to be exactly the same from one jig to the next. Once the JBWeld gets relatively hard, carefully remove the head and again coat it with car wax for the other side and then repeat the rest of the process, when the JB Weld is set on both sides you'll now be able to pour your shaky head with a flat spot.

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Smalljaw,

I toatally agree with you. Everything works great in a controlled enviroment like an aquarium or a pool. However, how many lakes do you know that are perfectly flat and if you find a flat spot how do you know the jig will land on the drop on the flat end and not topple over on a little pebble. This whole stand-up concept is really a clever selling tactic especially on the lighter jigs. Even when I walleye fished with the erie jig, it too toppled over many times. You are better off like you mentioned, buy store bought or custom poured plastics that float. Much better action and it will always float tail up, because it wants to float to the top but the round head or football heads keeps it from doing that.

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