markinorf Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Ive been dipping S81 on plugs after a 48hr cure of House of Kolor Intercoat clear that is on top of either Testors RC lacquers or HK base Poly colors. The S81 is so strong that even a quick dip and drip gets thru and a there is a very small amount of color bleeding down to the panel nail on the tail (drip helper trick I learned here). The cured finish has all the durability and gloss that I expect, but I cant see any compatibility issues with these products. Any advice is greatly appreciated! I can forget about writing with ink on the plugs! Looks like the lettering is going a 100mph! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Most of us are using water based acrylic latex instead of lacquers or HK colors so it may be hard getting a "read" on this. I think it's lucky that none of your colors or intercoat clear seems to be having a drastic problem since S81 often has compatibility problems with other solvent based coatings. Generally, I'm happy S81 penetrates because it will unify the finish into a very durable whole. All I can suggest is to use acrylic latex colors or stick with the stuff you're using if the color run isn't noticeable. I've never had any runs with with acrylic latex. As far as the lettering, the same problem happens with any solvent based lettering and any clearcoat containing a solvent (including some epoxies). I use a cheapo fine tip calligraphy pen and water based Createx black to sign baits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markinorf Posted April 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Thanx much. I dont have the cash to retool for water based right now though. I tried a calligraphy pen with the black base coat HK, and for whatever reason, I couldnt get the paint to flow down the slot consistently. Geez. It was a cheapo tip that I burnished lightly on some wood to prevent scratching. I love solvent based paints for there speedy dry times and overall look, but, if I cant figure this out, I will have no choice but to retool. I think I will make 3 passes with the vinyl based clear (Jannsnetcraft) instead, and try again. If that doesnt work, maybe spray the DN, go 48hrs, then dip it. Thanx again Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markinorf Posted May 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 Most of us are using water based acrylic latex instead of lacquers or HK colors so it may be hard getting a "read" on this. I think it's lucky that none of your colors or intercoat clear seems to be having a drastic problem since S81 often has compatibility problems with other solvent based coatings. Generally, I'm happy S81 penetrates because it will unify the finish into a very durable whole. All I can suggest is to use acrylic latex colors or stick with the stuff you're using if the color run isn't noticeable. I've never had any runs with with acrylic latex. As far as the lettering, the same problem happens with any solvent based lettering and any clearcoat containing a solvent (including some epoxies). I use a cheapo fine tip calligraphy pen and water based Createx black to sign baits. Thanx Bob, It was the HK Intercoat clear. Have had no issues with other pre finishes. On my way..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saltshaker Posted May 28, 2012 Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 I use latex Sharpies from time to time for detailing....not signature. I ain't puttin' my name on my work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markinorf Posted May 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 (edited) I use latex Sharpies from time to time for detailing....not signature. I ain't puttin' my name on my work. Even though I figured it out, Im leaning against any ink/enamal markings like model or signature. I have form fitting stencils for blood spots and any other thing I wish to add. I did notice though, the latex Sharpies were OK. Not Duracolor or any others. Dakota baits guys showed me the ropes for the form fitting stencils. I use .01" Butyrate, and it can be cut with an Xacto after forming. Killer.....youtube. Thanks guys... Heres couple Supermullet 95 slowsinkers. http://i449.photobucket.com/albums/qq216/markinorf/012.jpg http://i449.photobucket.com/albums/qq216/markinorf/blutiger.jpg Edited May 28, 2012 by markinorf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saltshaker Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 Even though I figured it out, Im leaning against any ink/enamal markings like model or signature. I have form fitting stencils for blood spots and any other thing I wish to add. I did notice though, the latex Sharpies were OK. Not Duracolor or any others. Dakota baits guys showed me the ropes for the form fitting stencils. I use .01" Butyrate, and it can be cut with an Xacto after forming. Killer.....youtube. Thanks guys... Heres couple Supermullet 95 slowsinkers. http://i449.photobuc...rkinorf/012.jpg http://i449.photobuc...rf/blutiger.jpg I like them baits, Mark. I'm here to tell ya...trout and redfish would eat 'em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markinorf Posted May 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 I like them baits, Mark. I'm here to tell ya...trout and redfish would eat 'em.Thanx SS.They do just that and sound like ball bearings in a pill bottle with the metal lined chambers that are built in. Hope to open the e-store by late summer. Custom Inshore Lures.com. All hand made. Lots of TLC and very little hope for making lots of money, but I dont care, cause I love seeing the pics of lunker trout with my baits hangin from their maws, and Id make em irregardless of the company anyway! Near the end of R&d and technical issues...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
