haxx5300 Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 I've heard of guys using JB weld to patch modifications gone awry and was wondering how well it works. I recently modified a Do-it mold to accept a rattle and managed to mill out a bit too much causing flashing down the side of the rattle. To all the folks out there that have patched with JB weld here's my question: Being the area I want to "patch" is so small will the JB weld adhere well enough in small amounts to the mold or is this generally something you'd use for the big oops?? If so, what are some recommended techniques for doing this?? Is it just as simple as it sounds?? Should I patch the entire slot and remill for the rattle or just patch the affected area?? If I just patch the affected area, I suppose I would put the JB weld in the spot to be repaired and then push my rattle into its spot to "mold" the JB weld into place but then how would I get the rattle back out?? Any release agents out there work for this application?? Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 I have had pretty good luck with it holding with thin applications.But I get in a hurry and sometimes it pops out. Maybe I didn't have it clean enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haxx5300 Posted May 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 Suggestions on how to go about curing my flashing problem?? Any suggestions for a release agent for the rattle or shouldn't I need it?? Thanks for the reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 (edited) If you had a piece of Teflon rod to take the place of the rattle. I am going to guess the JB Weld won't stick to the Teflon. If it is a nominal size that may be easy to get. I have several different sizes if you need some. Take some Vaseline and thin with some mineral spirits, then brush it on your rattle to coat the rattle so the JB Weld won't stick to the rattle. these are just some "suggestions" Edited May 4, 2012 by dlaery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atijigs Posted May 5, 2012 Report Share Posted May 5, 2012 A much easier solution is take some modeling clay put it in the rattle slot on both sides of the mold. Insert your rattle an close the mold. The excess clay will squeeze out of the slot. Clean it off and do it a couple of times until no excess squeezes out. You are now ready to cast and your flash problem will be gone. You may have to touch it up from time to time but it only takes a second to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haxx5300 Posted May 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 A much easier solution is take some modeling clay put it in the rattle slot on both sides of the mold. Insert your rattle an close the mold. The excess clay will squeeze out of the slot. Clean it off and do it a couple of times until no excess squeezes out. You are now ready to cast and your flash problem will be gone. You may have to touch it up from time to time but it only takes a second to do. So the modelling clay stays put pretty well and doesn't stick to the rattles after pouring?? How many pours do you think you get between touch-ups?? Might have to try that after I see if this mess I call JB Weld patch I've got here turns out ... right now, I'm not liking the looks of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atijigs Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 I have not used it for rattles. I mainly use it for altering hook slots and hook eye posts. I hate any flash. If it is going to stick to the rattles it will probably only be the first couple. It seems to dry out a little after you pour a couple. It can easily be removed if you don't like the result. As far as touch up just put a dab on you finger and swipe it over the cavity. Shut it a couple of times with a rattle in place and remove any excess. You want to be sure your mold closes all the way. The clay is much easier to work with than the JB weld. Good luck and let us know how it works on the rattles if you go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haxx5300 Posted May 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 I have not used it for rattles. I mainly use it for altering hook slots and hook eye posts. I hate any flash. If it is going to stick to the rattles it will probably only be the first couple. It seems to dry out a little after you pour a couple. It can easily be removed if you don't like the result. As far as touch up just put a dab on you finger and swipe it over the cavity. Shut it a couple of times with a rattle in place and remove any excess. You want to be sure your mold closes all the way. The clay is much easier to work with than the JB weld. Good luck and let us know how it works on the rattles if you go that route. Actually, now I feel I need to retract my earlier statement about this looking like a mess ... based off preliminary inspection I would have to say I'm fairly happy with how the JB Weld worked out. It took the rattle mold very well and came out clean as a whistle without chipping out any of the patch. Now I say preliminary because I have yet to pour anything through it as it will require some light dremel work to clean up some rough spots but just looking at it I would say it'll work (famous last words right??). I'll see for sure tonight. Thanks for the replies guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...