creekrock00 Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 picked these up yesterday at hobby lobby...they are called eraser shields...they are thin and flexible and have the cutouts alot of us use when painting...they are made by pacific arc and the numbers are er26 and er12....only 1.99 each and about 2x4 inches in size...just thought i would pass this along... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bester Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 Very cool. Thanks for posting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 Good idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firechief Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 Great idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonny.Barile Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Anyone who had a drafting class (before computers) has one of these. LOL I have one that is 28 years old. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyo1954 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Anyone who had a drafting class (before computers) has one of these. LOL I have one that is 28 years old. Heh! Still have a few from electronic technician school with resistors, capacitors, chokes and stuff on them. Great idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hooklineandsinker Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 I have one from High School drafting class. I do have another question concerning scaling: I have tried all kinds of products to get a desirable scale pattern. Tulle, soap puffs, hair net, etc. What have you found to give the best scale pattern? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 I've been painting for 10+ years and only recently realized a better way for shooting scale patterns. Thanks to Rayburn Guy! Shoot your white color basecoat. Shoot a medium gray (or any dark color you like) over the area to be scaled. Then put on the netting and shoot basecoat white over it. This makes for an extra step in the process but it makes for a much better defined, neater, scale pattern. After the last step you can remove the netting and mist on more white basecoat if desired to mute the scale pattern to taste. Then use transparent colors to finish painting over the scale effect. I use Polytranspar Superhide White airbrush paint for color basecoating. It has lots of white pigment, shoots well, and dries very quickly to a hard semigloss finish. Most airbrush paint lines contain a heavily pigmented white paint designed just for basecoating. Polytranspar is just my favorite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 (edited) Here's something else I've learned to do that will make the scale patterns stand out better. After shooting whatever color I want the scales to be I go ahead and put the netting on the bait. This is done after heat setting of course. Once the netting is in place I shoot another coat of the same color over the netting. This is then heat set as normal. Sometimes the color your shooting over the scale pattern will try to bleed under the netting. This happens on lures that are shaped in such a way that it's hard to get the netting pulled tightly to the bait. Spraying the same scale color over the netting will form a kind of seal and your next color isn't as apt to bleed under the netting. And spraying multiple light coats helps keep the paint from bleeding under your netting as well. Making sure your netting is pulled tightly on your bait helps as well. I like to fold the netting over the bait and then secure it by using two tongue depressors clamped over the netting with binder clamps. And when I say pulled tightly I mean tight. Quite often I tear the netting by pulling it so tight. Ben Edited July 20, 2012 by RayburnGuy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluetickhound Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 Somebody recently mentioned the mosquito netting in the camping section at Walmart. I picked some up to try and it really works great for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluetickhound Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 Ditto on the polytranspar! Its the best basecoat i have tried yet by a wide margin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyo1954 Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 Ben bleeding is a problem with a lot of stencils. A too hard stencil can't be wrapped over the contour of the lure. A too soft stencil will have areas that lift on their own. This one is just a test, but it has multiple problems. (It was shot at 8 lbs/PSI) The bottle is cut in pine and I didn't sand the surface like I should have. I was concerned the ribbon coming out of the eagle's beak would bleed, and didn't pay attention to the areas around the anchor. Cutting and using small stencils leave some overspray. Need to come up with some usable standard size that prevents that. What you've said, good stencil work requires, 1) good surface preparation and 2) a stencil that lays tightly against the surface make a lot of sense. I agree with you. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 (edited) Gary try lowering your air pressure and spraying lighter coats of paint. It may take multiple passes doing it like this, but the lower pressure will help keep the paint from blowing out under the edges of the stencil. Holding your brush back away from the bait will help also. This is more of a problem with stiff stencils especially on baits with tight contours. The netting we use for scales conforms to the shape of the bait much better than stencils do so it's not as much trouble. Ben Edited July 21, 2012 by RayburnGuy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyo1954 Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Ben wished I'd have seen this earlier. I went out and bought a roll of cheap clear contact paper to recut the stencil. Also picked up a bottle of Acrylic floor finish to thin the paint. Definitely going to shoot it through an old airbrush before ruining one I like. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snooterfish Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Anyone who had a drafting class (before computers) has one of these. LOL I have one that is 28 years old. mine are 39 years old...and still going strong..lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hokieangler Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 Here's something else I've learned to do that will make the scale patterns stand out better. After shooting whatever color I want the scales to be I go ahead and put the netting on the bait. This is done after heat setting of course. Once the netting is in place I shoot another coat of the same color over the netting. This is then heat set as normal. Sometimes the color your shooting over the scale pattern will try to bleed under the netting. This happens on lures that are shaped in such a way that it's hard to get the netting pulled tightly to the bait. Spraying the same scale color over the netting will form a kind of seal and your next color isn't as apt to bleed under the netting. And spraying multiple light coats helps keep the paint from bleeding under your netting as well. Making sure your netting is pulled tightly on your bait helps as well. I like to fold the netting over the bait and then secure it by using two tongue depressors clamped over the netting with binder clamps. And when I say pulled tightly I mean tight. Quite often I tear the netting by pulling it so tight. Ben Doesn't netting pull into your previous applied coats that have been heat set! That has been my experience anyway! I want to learn! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 Hokie, If the prior layer of paint has been thoroughly heat set it will be dry and not cause the problem you mentioned. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg.p Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 put your air pressure UP. it helps push the stencil onto the surface. airbrush control seems to be the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hokieangler Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 Thank You! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-Mac Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 The soap "scrunchy" bath things are good for scale patterns too. Very flexible, can be stretched to cover awkward contour, isn't abrasive against previous paint coats, oh, and you get about 10m for $1. For clamps, I've been using the small metal rubber coated spring clamps you see at home depot. They are cheap, very strong, and the rubber coatings help to prevent scratching paint. The small size lets you put several 3-4 on the bait to have a tighter fit to the lures contours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 Hokie, If the prior layer of paint has been thoroughly heat set it will be dry and not cause the problem you mentioned. Ben I've had that happen when I applied the first coats too thick, instead of several thinner layers. The thicker coat didn't completely dry and harden all the way through, and the netting cut into it. I make sure to spray light coats, and heat set each one thoroughly, before adding another coat. Color with lots of pigment, like opaques and pearls, are the worst culprits for this, so be sure to do thin coats with them, and heat dry each one. I also don't clamp my netting onto my lures to paint them. I have an "easel" type setup, with a piece of 1/4" foam board mounted on the face of a sheet of plywood that's leaned next to my paint area. I attach a piece of tulle netting at the top of the plywood, so it drapes down over the foam. When I want to scale a lure, I hold the lure when I want it, and use push pins to pull the tulle around it semi-tight. The push pins and tule keep the lure in place, so I just spray my scale color, hit the lure with the hair dryer, and remove the push pins while holding the lure by the tail or bill. It works for me. I also wear a blue nitrile glove on my left, non-air brush hand, so lots of times I hold both the tulle and the lure by the bill in my left and shoot the scale color like that. That way my hand stays clean, and I can hold stuff much better than trying to clamp or pin it sometimes. The blue gloves last a long time. I am no artist by any stretch of the imagination. I am a carpenter who makes baits and paints them. I only paint for myself now, so I'm a little more cavalier about my painting than I was when I sold baits. I want the general effect, but I want to get them finished and top coated, so I can fish them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
