aaron4mvp Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 To remove the edge right after I cut out the body shape I use a belt sander to round the edges, but after that for removing less, does everyone use wood rasps or wood files? I have not yet found a definitive answer to this question. Any help is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 After cutting out the profile I use a carving knife to rough out the shape and then sand it by hand to finish it. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaron4mvp Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Any particular shape or brand name of carving knife? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 After I've finished shaping on the belt sander, with an 80 grit wheel, I use a small vibrator sander, first with 100 grit and then 150 grit, and then I hand sand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluetickhound Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 (edited) Ben, was it you who put me on to Smoky Mountain woodcarvers Murphy Knife? If so, thank you from the bottom of my heart!! That thing is awesome! Aaron, look into this knife and you'll be glad you did. Edited June 13, 2012 by bluetickhound Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 Ben, was it you who put me on to Smoky Mountain woodcarvers Murphy Knife? If so, thank you from the bottom of my heart!! That thing is awesome! Aaron, look into this knife and you'll be glad you did. I'm not sure BTH, but it was Gene (Lincoya) who first brought it to the attention of myself and a few others. If anyone deserves thanks it's Gene. Here's the link if you want to take a look at it Aaron. http://woodcarvers.com/murphyknives.htm Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 I use a Dremel tool with a fine grit sanding cylinder or a Foredom rotary tool with a 220 grit sandpaper cylinder for 95% of the shaping on baits, followed up by 220 or 400 grit hand sanding. Whatever you're comfortable with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaron4mvp Posted June 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 Ok thanks. Yea I was looking at a Foredom just because of the amount of detail that can be added. But for now I think I will get a murphy knife or something similar made by flexcut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littleriver Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 I have tried the rasp but prefer the carving knife myself. You may have to try a few methods before finding what works for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 Ok thanks. Yea I was looking at a Foredom just because of the amount of detail that can be added. But for now I think I will get a murphy knife or something similar made by flexcut. If you go with a carving knife be sure to keep it sharp. If it doesn't scare you it's not sharp enough. You won't need to put nearly as much pressure on a properly sharpened knife and that helps us keep our fingers intact. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyo1954 Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 Can't go wrong with a good carving knife Aaron. There are so many ways to cut and shape wood, it can be confusing. Harder to say what not to use than what to use. And sometimes it depends on the material you are are cutting. Balsa and cedar disappear fast on belt sander. So when I cut balsa, I grab something like this...... I'd say 90% of that stuff, I don't even know what it is! You got a plane, an az, a sanding block, different handles and a bunch of blades. I use the red handle and the curved carving blade. Sporadically, I use other things. Never use the az that I remember. But it''s there. There are times I grab one of there...... A razor knife is good for just about anything. I do use the two edged rasp on pine, and cedar and basswood. And I use small files depending on what I need. That blue handled knife is not for wood. It is for cutting lexan. You have to experiment and see what is comfortable for you. But you can't go wrong with a good carving knife. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincoya Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 Aaron4mvp, Being a woodcarver, I have several knives (including quite a few that I made myself). For the money, the Murphy knife is, by far, the best carving knife you can buy. Flexcut also makes a great carving knife but will cost you almost three times what the Murphy will. Regardless of which knife you buy, you will also need a fine stone to hone your edge with occassionally and a strop to add that razor edge. You'll ONLY use the stone when the strop doesn't give you the razor edge or if you damage the edge. A strop can be made with a good piece of clear-grained hardwood such as maple, poplar, or cherry. Avoid soft woods such as pine, spruce, or some cedars and woods with pronounced grains as these will not give your knife the proper edge it needs. Glue a piece of THIN leather onto your wood with some contact cement, add some extra fine polishing compound (found at Lowe's or other improvement stores), and you're set to go. Gene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluetickhound Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 (edited) Gene Thank you so much for putting me on to the Murphy knife. I thought it was Ben but after looking further he is right. You first mentioned it and it has been a Godsend for my lure making. I visit Townsend two or three times a year an cant BELIEVE I haven't stumbled across Smoky Mountain Woodcarvers before now. I've been to the dulcimer shop but that's the only place at Nawger I've been to. BTH Edited June 14, 2012 by bluetickhound Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crankpaint Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 On larger flat sided baits i use a roundover bit on my router table and it makes quick work of it most of my baits are made of poplur wood thou so i dont know about balsa should work thou Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 In my experience, balsa machines differently than poplar. Even though it's classified as a hardwood, the grain tears so easily I've never had much luck getting a router to cut it well. It sands so fast, I just use a piece of PVC pipe, split in half, with sand paper on the inside, to round balsa baits. Hazmail was the first one on TU to use this method, that I know of, and it works like a dream. Plus it's cheap, and so am I. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonny.Barile Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 Thats brilliant (in a DIY kinda way) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluetickhound Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 Thats brilliant (in a DIY kinda way) I thought the same thing... As lazy as I am I can't believe I didnt think of something like that!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyo1954 Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 Personally, never used any power tool on balsa. You can go from a block to good copy with just an exacto knife and sandpaper, in about 30 minutes Of the woods I have tried, balsa is the easiest. Then I'd say basswood, cedar, white pine and poplar. Poplar is a good clear wood with no knots and a tight grain. White pine is softer with a wider grain and quite a few knots. Its pretty much a trade off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 I have recently been doing lot of work on small, flat sided cranks, 2" length. I bought a 1/8" radius round over router bit for the job. I built a small platform that fitted the router bit and gave good stability to the wood blanks and it worked perfectly, with no snagging or tearing. I was very happy with the result. Still, it is not good having your fingers so close to the cutter and I will be making some sort of holder, like many that have been published here on TU, it is just that my first attempt at such a device did not work. When I return to Indonesia and get back to my shop, the holder is the first job on my list. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 (edited) Havn't got the patience to hand carve them (or the skill) , I get my jollies out of painting - try making one of these -- 'The Aussie Wheel' Pete. Edited June 19, 2012 by hazmail 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyo1954 Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 Pete, I'm intrigued. That's great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 That is a great idea Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluetickhound Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 Havn't got the patience to hand carve them (or the skill) , I get my jollies out of painting - try making one of these -- 'The Aussie Wheel' Pete. Pete I have to tell you... Your baits have been the basis that I have gotten started off with in my lure making. I have made several "traditional" Big O style crankbaits since but when I was just getting started a few months ago your work really caught my attention in the "making lure eyes" thread. The bass in my area (Atlanta Georgia) certainly agree that your style is tempting!! Thanks for the inspiration and I hope you don't mind me basically totally copying your work!! I'm not in it for money, but if I ever get to that point I promise i won't sell any of your copies. BTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 That is really slick Pete!!..Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonny.Barile Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 You showed that to us a while back when I was posting about a potential sander purchase. I think I remember you having a huge disk sander also? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
