quickdraw Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 From What I've seen there is no perfect Clear Coat. Multiple threads have shown that every one is lacking. From my standpoint there are several needs that should be met. 1. Easy portion mixing not super critical to measurements 2. Mixes well without problems like bubbles 3. Easily applied 4. Self Leveling 5. Adequate pot life to do multiple lures in 1 batch (20 minutes or more) 6. UV Stabilized (not only resistant) 7. Hard but pliable so as not to chip or break from hook rash or big toothy fish. 8. Long term storage without special handling or containment. 9. Odor free or at least safe enough to be used indoors without special ventilation 10. Easily available with a reasonable cost. From what I've seen and read here nothing is perfect: Dick Nite's: Special containment and argon gas is only a part of the fun here. I don't believe it states that it is UV stabilized, maybe so. Also difficult to find and obtain with long order times. I've read about mixing and bubble issues also. EnviroTech Lite: I read multiple posts about bubbles and mix ratio but I think that may have more to do with humidity. Not UV stabilized but other than that sounds like good stuff. D2T: Not UV Stabilized and maybe difficult to do multiple larger bait like I build do to pot life. I've read multiple posts about it not curing properly but that also may be a humidity problem. Probably OK for repair or to install lips or a small bait . EnviroTech EX-74: From their site: (EX-74 has been formulated for improved UV resistance to reduce yellowing) so not stable, resistant to reduce yellowing and needs good ventilation. Other than that it sounds like maybe one of the best. Amazing Clear Cast: Also not UV stabilized but other than that it sounds good. AeroMarine 300/21: As with the rest not UV stabilized, other than that it's good. Most here score somewhere between 7-9 but I don't see a 10. All but maybe 1 aren't UV stable. From what I can se eit's a give and take with every one. So where is the perfect clearcoat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluetickhound Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 (edited) If you ever find it don't keep it to yourself!!! I would disagree with you ad for as DN being "Hard to find" and also about the long wait times. I ordered some saturday before last and got it in 9 days. Would have been sooner except for weekend down days. I'm really interested in trying the DN S-83 plastic dip. Not much has been reported on it here but it seems like it would be pretty good stuff. Edited July 24, 2012 by bluetickhound 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quickdraw Posted July 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 (edited) If you ever find it don't keep it to yourself!!! I would disagree with you ad for as DN being "Hard to find" and also about the long wait times. I ordered some saturday before last and got it in 9 days. Would have been sooner except for weekend down days. I'm really interested in trying the DN S-83 plastic dip. Not much has been reported on it here but it seems like it would be pretty good stuff. Well that's good to hear. I was going by multiple posts from a few months ago where several people had said that it took forever to get and one guy said that he never heard back from them. I've only used a few of these topcoats and all of my other information comes right off of these pages over the last 2-3 months. DN's for me is a fail though because of the whole storage issue. Edited July 24, 2012 by quickdraw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluetickhound Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 I live in a very humid area (Georgia) but i have only had my DN for a short time. I got two cans of Bloxygen and immediately transferred my quart of S-81 into smaller mason jars to keep headspace to a minimum... I'll keep everyone posted if the DN goes bad on me but i have every confidence it'll be OK... I also like the ACC if for no other reason it is easy to use and you can make stuff like fake ice cubes with bugs in 'em and other fun stuff! I have seen another possible entry into the mix at Hobby Lobby but i havent tried it yet. When i do i'll post a review... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluetickhound Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 What say you about this? http://www.mertons.com/Epoxy/epoxy_resins/sb.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markinorf Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 I even tried UV cured epoxies--$$$$. Target EM9300 meets all ten of your points. Especially costs. A fellow builder on this site got me hooked on this water based and UV stable polycarbonate topcoat. I still use D2T for encapsulating foils and/or pre-finishing balsa baits, but the Target is it; for me. Got my quota of fumes a long time ago. I dip 3 times in 1hr increments. I like DN, but, after using up my last batch, and testing the 9300 over time, I'll take the Target. Thanks, Mark P.! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluetickhound Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 Also saw this... http://www.epoxysystems.com/402.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juice780 Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 This is what I use. It's similar to dn and hard to store but it's cheaper and doesn't yellow. http://www.poolandmarinepaint.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=241 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat28 Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 I ama huge fan of nu-lustre 55. absolutely no yellowing after four years in use, 20 minutes to apply, and if mixed in a small container that is slowly heated (I put this small container in a lrger one full of hot water), no bubbles. It still is an epoxy and thus a mixture of resin and hardener, but it has some flex to it and is resistant to toothy critters, which is all I fish for. Pat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quickdraw Posted July 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 What say you about this? http://www.mertons.c..._resins/sb.html When I bought my last clear coat this was one of the 2 I was trying to decide between. It all looks good on paper but I'd need to use it to know for sure. It could be a winner though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quickdraw Posted July 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 (edited) I even tried UV cured epoxies--$$$$. Target EM9300 meets all ten of your points. Especially costs. A fellow builder on this site got me hooked on this water based and UV stable polycarbonate topcoat. I still use D2T for encapsulating foils and/or pre-finishing balsa baits, but the Target is it; for me. Got my quota of fumes a long time ago. I dip 3 times in 1hr increments. I like DN, but, after using up my last batch, and testing the 9300 over time, I'll take the Target. Thanks, Mark P.! Are you saying that Target EM9300 doesn't have fumes? My concern about most urethanes is that they stick great to wood but what about a painted surface? Does this offer any kind of protection from hook rash and toothy critters? It would be great to find a 1 part coating. Even as a base sealer this may just be it. Edited July 25, 2012 by quickdraw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quickdraw Posted July 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 Doing a little research I found this posted here last year. JFOWLER,if you are willing to pay the shipping I will be happy to send you nearly a full quart of EM9000 (the waterproof stuff). If your refinishing a coffee table the stuff might be fine but if your doing baits I have to agree with Riverman. This bait is PVC, painted with waterbased paint, heat set and allowed to cure 3 weeks before fishing. After 20 min. and 2 small bass this is the result. If you soak the lure 4 hours you can roll the milky looking stuff off with your thumb. Beleive me, stuff is not the term for it I would use in person Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quickdraw Posted July 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 (edited) I ama huge fan of nu-lustre 55. absolutely no yellowing after four years in use, 20 minutes to apply, and if mixed in a small container that is slowly heated (I put this small container in a lrger one full of hot water), no bubbles. It still is an epoxy and thus a mixture of resin and hardener, but it has some flex to it and is resistant to toothy critters, which is all I fish for. Pat From what I can find the Nu-Lustre 55 isn't UV stable but the Nu-Lustre 57 is UV resistant and is used for marine use. http://www.swingpain.../1557us_can.htm Edited July 25, 2012 by quickdraw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat28 Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 Perhaps the series has now chqnged. When I last bougt some, it wasunder the name nulustre 55, and it did say it was uv resistant, and as I said, the first batch of lures I made with it four years ago is still flawless. They may now have made it uv stable instead. This would make it even better. I first seal the lure with it prior to priming, then prime and paint, and then seal again with nu lustre. Pat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markinorf Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 Are you saying that Target EM9300 doesn't have fumes? My concern about most urethanes is that they stick great to wood but what about a painted surface? Does this offer any kind of protection from hook rash and toothy critters? It would be great to find a 1 part coating. Even as a base sealer this may just be it. As far as fumes from 9300, I just run the paint booth fan. Its nothing campared to MCU's. I dont wear a respirator like I do for DN. It definitley can be used indoors. I use lacquers and enamels like HOK and Testors, and it adheres like a champ to these. The plugs that have foil and D2T get scuffed before painting the backs and bellys. Never had a compatibility issue with these. It wont attack ink either (signatures). Its average when dealing with hook rash. Not a silver bullet. I knew when I mentioned this product, there was gonna be some who hate this stuff. Never had any baits peel away like the one in the pic. The guy said it was the 9000, wich is the interior grade clear. It does take several days to reach max hardness (app 3-4 coats). I think it would be good base sealer for wood. I make most of my plugs out of PVC or cast them, so I havent used it for that. I have a bunch of different cleacoats options in my shop, but I keep going back to the 9300 for all my personal plugs. Its super easy, cheap, and holds up fine on reds, stripers, and specks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 With the target products ,do they need to be put on a wheel after dipping?...Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 With the target products ,do they need to be put on a wheel after dipping?...Nathan No. Dip and hang. Just watch and blot the drips that accumulate at the bottom with a paper towel for the first 15 minutes, and hit the bait with a hair dryer on low, lightly, after 30 minutes, and again after 45 minutes. Doing that let's me dip again in an hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 Thanks Mark...Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markinorf Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 Another great tip a guy here made--- go ahead and install the tail screw before dipping. DN and 9300 can easily be cut away afterwards, and eliminates blotting with the towels. Works great for me. I dip 2 coats of 9300 (or one for DN), tail down. The next day you are still in the recoating window for 9300 and DN without scuffing, so I remove the plugs from the painting hangers, install the nose screw and do the reverse direction (1-2 coats 9300 / 1 DN). I use nitrile gloves to handle them during the swap. I hang em with wire on this session. I know--off topic..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyo1954 Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 I'm sort, kinda, maybeing on going back to dipping myself. Nothing seems to last forever, except plastic in a landfill, nuclear waste, and roaches. So unless you are building or buying only collectibles, lures are going to show use and wear. If it lasts longer than the 90 day warranty on my microwave, I'm happy. Sometimes the more I hate something, the better it works. I don't know why this is. Maybe my mind works in reverse and I should gear up to making things I hate. Showed a bunch of lures to a guy yesterday. First thing he did was pick solid black with fluorescent yellow head. I mean, I'm all, "Hey look at the spots and the nice colors on this one!" And he gets excited on one that looks like the reverse of a Mister Twister chartreuse tail worm?!? Guess it does come down to "paint catches fisherman, lures catch fish." G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 Good tip Markinof...Have you and Mark used this 9300 on wooden lures?..I know you two guys use mostly PVC for your baits...It seems the failures I've read about this stuff has been on wooden baits...Can this stuff be purchased at lowes..etc. or do I order direct?..Thanks for the help guys...Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markinorf Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 I'm sort, kinda, maybeing on going back to dipping myself. Nothing seems to last forever, except plastic in a landfill, nuclear waste, and roaches. So unless you are building or buying only collectibles, lures are going to show use and wear. If it lasts longer than the 90 day warranty on my microwave, I'm happy. Sometimes the more I hate something, the better it works. I don't know why this is. Maybe my mind works in reverse and I should gear up to making things I hate. Showed a bunch of lures to a guy yesterday. First thing he did was pick solid black with fluorescent yellow head. I mean, I'm all, "Hey look at the spots and the nice colors on this one!" And he gets excited on one that looks like the reverse of a Mister Twister chartreuse tail worm?!? Guess it does come down to "paint catches fisherman, lures catch fish." G There ya go... No magic bullet. When I get down to the base, I say "GOOOAAAAL!". Then, I repair/make more like it. I clearly admit my addiction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 Gary, I've come to the same conclusion myself. I switched to PVC for building so I never have water intrusion problems, and I use SC9000 because it works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markinorf Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 (edited) Will work with a good FULLY cured substrate of water or solvent based paint jobs. I use solvent and rarely make any wood baits. An occasional balsa topwater with wire form, D2T and 9300 is all I do with wood anymore. Hardest lesson Ive learned is cure time when making lures. Again, off topic.....wheres my meds? Target Coatings. Buy online. 20 bucks for a quart. About 2 cents per bait. Stores "forever"? Edited July 27, 2012 by markinorf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benton B Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 Flex Coat Ultra V high build rod finish is the best product I've used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
