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Juice780

Epoxy For Hook Hangers

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I've been using d2t to install my hook hangers and bills. But I have been having to order it because I can't find it anywhere near me. Is there another epoxy I can use that is just as strong or stronger that I can get at a local store like lowes, ace or hobby lobby. Thanks

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I know you asked for an epoxy, but I've been using super glue to install hook hangers and ballast weights. There's no mixing and with a quick drop of accelerator it hardens instantly so there's no waiting before moving on to your next step. There's also less waste and you don't have to be in a hurry getting everything installed due to a limited amount of working time with epoxy. I can't tell you how the super glue compares in strength to an epoxy, but I haven't had any failures so far.

Ben

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I use Zap-A-Gap in the green labeled 4 0z. bottle by Robart Manufacturing. I think there are three different thicknesses of the glue with the green label being their medium viscosity.

I buy the accelerator in the larger bottle and instead of using their pump sprayer, which in my opinion wastes product, I started using a 1/16" steel rod dipped into the accelerator and then allow it to drip onto the hangers where it flows down onto the glue.

Check out the link below. If I can be of any more help just holler.

Ben

http://www.robart.com/store/zap-glue

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I don't think D2T forms a stronger bond than other 30 minute glue epoxies, it's just good as a topcoat so has become popular. I've never had any kind of hardware pull out of a bait regardless of the type of epoxy used. Which I pick depends mostly on the pot life I need for a particular job. For a couple of baits, I'll use a 5 min epoxy to glue in ballast and hook hangers. If it's 4-5 baits, I'll switch to D2T or any other 30 minute glue epoxy. Lips are a different matter. Quick set 5 minute epoxies turn brown quickly when exposed to UV. I can wipe off the excess on a hanger or ballast and it will never show. But browned epoxy will show through a Lexan lip to the outside if you mount lips after the lure is painted, so I don't use it there. What I have come to like for mounting lips is Rod Bond Paste Epoxy. It is a light beige color when mixed and stays that color after curing. The big advantage is that you can mix a batch of Rod Bond and use it for at least two hours before it begins to harden. So you can do quite a large number of lips without remixing and you still have plenty of time to tweak them to insure they're in straight. It begins to significantly harden after about 5 hours and can be handled after 10-12 hrs, so it's something to use at the end of the day or when you won't need to handle the baits for 10-12 hrs..

There are lots of different formulations of superglue on the market these days - regular, zap a gap, shock resistant, etc I'm sure all of them work on hangers and ballasts - as long as the hardware fits properly so that it conforms to the type of superglue you're using. But I don't think any type of superglue is as shock resistant as epoxy so don't use it to mount lips. JMHO

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I must have read over the part about gluing in lips so let me recap my previous post. I don't use the super glue to secure diving lips. It's only used on hook hangers and ballast weights. For mounting lips I use Bob Smith Slow Cure 30 minute epoxy. I still have to order it online, but what I do is buy 2 sets of the 9 oz. bottles at a time. Then when I'm down to about 1/3 left on the last set I order two more. This cuts down on having to order so often and saves a little on shipping.

Sorry for any confusion.

Ben

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I was at Hobby Lobby yesterday and they had an epoxy that both bottles were clear that they were selling for $10.99. It didn't tell the strength but that is still a good buy for a 9 ounce pack. The name was Extreme "something or other". Most of the epoxies that I am familiar with are lower in strength when both parts are clear. This may or may not be true of this epoxy. Musky Glenn

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Like Ben, I use super glue to install ballast and hook hangers, and D2t to install bills.

If I have any voids after the epoxy on the bills sets, I'll fill them in with gap filling Zap, and use the accelerant.

I will start using Ben's wire applicator. He's right. The spray bottle wastes a ton of material.

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I was at Hobby Lobby yesterday and they had an epoxy that both bottles were clear that they were selling for $10.99. It didn't tell the strength but that is still a good buy for a 9 ounce pack. The name was Extreme "something or other". Most of the epoxies that I am familiar with are lower in strength when both parts are clear. This may or may not be true of this epoxy. Musky Glenn

I've seen that and quite honestly... I'd pass on it. The HL here near home has it and every (hardener) bottle on the rack has already hardened. I told the store manager... They got some more and within the month the new batch hardened in the bottle also...

Edited by bluetickhound
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I use the 2ton for ballast weight and hanger combo, because I know I've never had a failure with it. I then fill the remaining space at the top with the epoxy stick. After it's mixed, press it into the ballast hole and smooth out, once that's done, I can go to the next bait. Once it's cured, sand and prime the bait....ta da.

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I went back to d2t after trying Gorilla glue for a while, along with a few others.

The d2t is just the best,so I chose to bite the bullet and order it as needed.

I've installed .092 stainless screw eyes with it and you will twist off (break) the screw eyes before they will unscrew from the bait. That is the strength I'm after, so I use the stuff despite the hassle of ordering it.

I build stuff for muskies though. If I built for other species I'd probably use something easier to get.

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