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Clevises Shape

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I've found that with standard (half round) shape of clevis, blade sometimes after casting turns over and deadly stucks between upper part of wire and sharp edge of clevis.

Probably because of that Mepps making "half pear" (narrow in the upper part and wide in the lower) shape of folding clevis without of sharp edges and that shape allows to blade sliding back to normal position.

Question: Could I buy somewhere the same kind of clevises?

Thanks

Edited by ING
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Try folded clevises 2421 at www.lurepartsonline.com. Hope this helps. Musky Glenn

Thank you, Musky Glenn!

I have that clevises and tried them. Unfortunately they are not eliminated problem completely because have just horse shoe shape - not sharper angle downward on the top like Mepp's.

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The clevises on a Mepps are made in-house or exclusivley made and I find a lot of problems with their product as you need to really get them moving for the blade to spin when using anything smaller than a #2. What I would do is tweak your design to eliminate the snagging point, you are trying to make a copy of a bait design with the same components and this is where we all go wrong making lures. Add or subtract beads or change lure bodies or something but the only clevises available to us is the stirrup and the folded and the folded I believe was made to spin on mono or light wire.

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I am trying to make my own design but a problem I've described above is common and happen with any spinners except Mepps. I've explored a lot of different manufactures. If blade has turned over and up, it has stuck and impossible to force it to rotate. The shape of Mepps clevis ( https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2Sd_x9j4wzw/UHLFYLNN79I/AAAAAAAAXu0/T0BUlbYadoU/s150/folded-clevis.jpg ) allows blade to slide back. It is patented by Mepps.

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I am trying to make my own design but a problem I've described above is common and happen with any spinners except Mepps. I've explored a lot of different manufactures. If blade has turned over and up, it has stuck and impossible to force it to rotate. The shape of Mepps clevis ( https://lh4.googleus...lded-clevis.jpg ) allows blade to slide back. It is patented by Mepps.

I'm not a big in-line spinner guy but I used to fish them a lot and I never had the blade hang up to the point of not being able to give it a rip to get the blade moving. The clevis is a folded clevis that is on an angle, and I'm not sure if having a folded clevis just cut on an angle would help. Have you tried cutting or grinding an angle on a folded clevis to see if it would work?

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Thank you, toadfrog!

I think the space is enough but tiny bid above clevis is probably a bright idea. (If bid will not slide up during the cast). May be there is a reason to decrease the space between twist and bid to prevent it. I'll try that.

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I'm not a big in-line spinner guy but I used to fish them a lot and I never had the blade hang up to the point of not being able to give it a rip to get the blade moving. The clevis is a folded clevis that is on an angle, and I'm not sure if having a folded clevis just cut on an angle would help. Have you tried cutting or grinding an angle on a folded clevis to see if it would work?

I am testing all lures (mine and bought) in the bass. I flip them like after casting and pulling them back and forth. Case I've mention happens not so often but happens and I don't want somebody or mi sorry if it happen when fish of the life is nearby and ignore the lure. I've experimented with different kinds and sizes of clevises, bend them, file sharp edges of stirrup clevises etc. Sometimes it's become better, sometimes - not, but not eliminating the problem at all. I hope that advice of toadfrog about tiny bid will help.

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By the way, there is also another problem: after casting, body of the lure laying in the blade cavity and gliding like on the water sky without rotation. May be distance in the bass too short...It is also happen approximately one time from twenty.

Lures with french blades less prone to that effect.

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With inlines you need a bead on top of the clevis to help from hanging on eye twist and it seems to start the water flow to the blade better ... adjust the number of beads between bottom of clevis and body of lure till you get it to spin with out "Hugging" the body .. the size of the blade in relationship to the size and weight of the body are important as well.

My 50 cents worth (thats inflation in action .. was 2 cents worth .. what will it be next ?)

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Bingo! Dream Clevis 2000 have the shape I am looking for!

Thank you very much!

I've tried small bids on the top of clevis. Edge of blade pushing the bid up and stuck anyway between clevis, bid and wire.

I am appreciate everybody trying to help for resolving that problem. Advices are pricless even with inflation.

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I would recommend the large # 2 clevises for number 3 and up French blades. I’ve only bought the # 2 clevises, and they are from the old Pen Tac company when it was owned by Jed Davis in Seattle Washington. Here are some pictures with measurements:

Clevises with a # 5 French blade.

sol1745001.jpg

The clevis is about 0.224 inches tall, almost a ¼ inch.

sol1745003.jpg

It’s made from 0.047 inch brass wire.

sol1745004.jpg

The hole is made for 0.032 inch wire. Anything bigger will bind and not spin, I tried 0.035” wire, but it was a tight fit.

sol1745006.jpg

Hope this helps.

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