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TrophyFishR

Trouble With Stencils

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I've read quite a few threads about stencil making on TU.

I've used vellum. Its great for easy cutting and it bends around the bait easily, but it warps after the first coat of paint. Not durable at all.

Business cards are good for shad dots and gills.

you cant see the bait thru them, so I get off center a lot.

Ive got some plastic sheet stencil material from hobby lobby.

Its basically like the plastic the comes with a crankbait package.

I like that its clear, but its hard to cut out curves.

Im cutting these stencils with an exacto knife, but I can't make a good curve for gills or shells.

What do I need to use for cutting complex curves?

the straight blade exacto knife isnt working out.

Ive been doing the entire craw shell on the plastic sheet but it doesn't go over the back of a round bait.

Do I need a stencil for each section of shell on the crawdad?

I almost bought some frisket, but didnt know if I needed the transparent or semi transparent film.

Ive learned that making stencils is tougher than painting the actual bait.

Ugghhh, the options are endless.

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I use frisket material but leave the peel-off paper backing on it so I can use it for both sides of the bait and can save the template for other baits. The problem is matching the position of the template on the side of the bait exactly the same on both sides, since the frisket is opaque with the paper backing still on it. My frisket came with a grid printed on the paper backing so I center the grid on the crankbait when I'm outlining the shape of the crankbait on the frisket material. That way, when the template is cut out, I can match it via the grid lines to the tail and nose of the bait. I find it pretty easy to cut with an Xacto knife.

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Easiest stencil making I've found yet, is take your plastic pack a crank comes in. Tape it to the top of a plastic box like a Plano tackle box with masking tape. Cover the whole piece, draw your design then using a #16 xacto cut it out. The #16 will allow you to make intricate cures that the #11 doesn't. Also the softer top of the plano box will allow you to cut without "grabbing" the blade. Do not press hard while cutting, you will find you can make great curves and designs.

Good Luck, bb

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